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Old 08-13-2012, 05:53 PM   #26
slugish
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Re: firing order question

Finally got it running > ran for bout 25 min,s at 2000rpms to break cam in .

What I did was set distributer in & turned it till it settled or aligned with the oil pump thingy . Left cap off & turned by hand till Igot to tdc & the rotor pointed to the # 1 plug. I put much lighter advance springs in the dist. at the advice of someone .Iwonder if this made it more difficult to crank > probably need to time it with more advance ??. Always just timed it by ear before without using a light. with these different springs in it & it ran good . Never could find mark on damper before , but when Itook engine out I mad sure to find it & painted it .

Now onward to timing , finding a bad oil leak , coolant leak under new water pump, leaky header gaskets > Tried the copper ones from Summitt > dont seem to want to seal properly .

Any advice on any of this stuff

Thx Will
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:10 AM   #27
mopar346
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Re: firing order question

Great, need a little more info on the other issues to advice on the oil leak.

Waterpump - replace the gaskets clean the surface area make sure it is smooth/machined properly, also look at the cover behind the impeller to make sure it was tightened properly.

Header gaskets can leak, copper gaskets require really smooth surfaces and even bolt torque. I usually use a premium one instead of the common Mr. G one of copper, I also check the bolts after a heat cycle then after a 100 miles or so and then after a few weeks. Make sure the sureface on the back of the headers is relatively smooth and will hold a gasket, head surface as well. The last few sets I have run have been using Hedman Elite headers with the 3/8 flange and have had no issues with leakage or bolts loosen up.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:57 AM   #28
motornut
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Re: firing order question

some people cut and seperate the header flanges
but they need to be bolted from center to outside,not front to back,or back to front
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:01 PM   #29
slugish
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Re: firing order question

Quote:
Originally Posted by motornut View Post
some people cut and seperate the header flanges
but they need to be bolted from center to outside,not front to back,or back to front
So should Iloosen them back up > tighten them like you said

Dont think I tightened them from center out --dont remember
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:08 PM   #30
slugish
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Re: firing order question

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar346 View Post
Great, need a little more info on the other issues to advice on the oil leak.

Waterpump - replace the gaskets clean the surface area make sure it is smooth/machined properly, also look at the cover behind the impeller to make sure it was tightened properly.

Header gaskets can leak, copper gaskets require really smooth surfaces and even bolt torque. I usually use a premium one instead of the common Mr. G one of copper, I also check the bolts after a heat cycle then after a 100 miles or so and then after a few weeks. Make sure the sureface on the back of the headers is relatively smooth and will hold a gasket, head surface as well. The last few sets I have run have been using Hedman Elite headers with the 3/8 flange and have had no issues with leakage or bolts loosen up.
* Found out oil leak was really tranny leak > think it was over full of fluid > maybe fluid wasnt in torque conv. yet since Ihad not shifted gears yet ?

*Coolant leak mysterisly stopped > maybewater pump gaskets needed to get wet & seat ?

* retightened header bots twice after it ran for a while & got hot. . >STILL SOUNDS LIKE A THRASHING MACHINE .
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:11 PM   #31
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Re: firing order question

Quote:
Originally Posted by slugish View Post
So should Iloosen them back up > tighten them like you said

Dont think I tightened them from center out --dont remember
I would if they are still leaking
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