window sweeps issues

[Metalaroundstone]

Originally Posted by forestb

Same bad product. Vary disappointed. I am going to try and screw them in this time instead of using the clips.

So, it sounds like the Repops felts had the same fitment issues. How did you end up installing the felts?

[forestb]

Originally Posted by Metalaroundstone

So, it sounds like the Repops felts had the same fitment issues. How did you end up installing the felts?

That project is on hold right now. I might end up removing the clips and screwing them in with little crews so that they sit higher in the window frame. They function for now but I am not happy with how they function.

[62 short step]

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[chevyguys]

Bought my first set from LMC. The felts were stuck on with a tar like substance, not pinched into the top and bottom lip. Ended up getting a great set of repop's as mentioned above. Fit perfect!

[K98AL]

I'm about to buy my second set of window felt/seals...I screwed up the first ones.

I am missing some of the metal "u-shaped" clips that hold the channel into the door. Anyone know a good source for these?

[travz500]

gonna keep a watch on this one

[Lloyd C.]

I concur with the astronauts post back in October that the channel on the bottom of the window is supposed to go up between the sweeps when the window is all the way up. I suspect that over time, the sheet metal flanges that the sweeps snap in to, get bent inward which causes all this interference I've been reading about. Therefore, before installing the new "Repops" brand sweeps, I made sure the flanges were bent slightly outward and my son's windows roll all the way up. However, I have found installing these sweeps on the 60-66 trucks is a real pain compared to those on my 68. No wonder they re-designed them.

[shp4man]

The metal "L" brackets at the bottom of the glass it what hits the cheapo felts.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by shp4man

The metal "L" brackets at the bottom of the glass it what hits the cheapo felts.

Thanks for the reply. Mine is a 62 so the window track is different.

[Aaronoregon]

I leave them for last because I absolutely dread doing these on every truck I do. They are a complete PIA. The screw method has worked the best for me, but it is tough drilling the holes with it painted and getting the bit not to walk. I get little black screws from Ace Hardware and you can't even see them in the sweep. Buy a couple bits so they are nice and sharp for drilling and pull it out as far as you can in the chuck.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by Aaronoregon

I leave them for last because I absolutely dread doing these on every truck I do. They are a complete PIA. The screw method has worked the best for me, but it is tough drilling the holes with it painted and getting the bit not to walk. I get little black screws from Ace Hardware and you can't even see them in the sweep. Buy a couple bits so they are nice and sharp for drilling and pull it out as far as you can in the chuck.

why not pre-drill it so when you have it painted all you have to do is screw them on

[forestb]

In order to keep it form walking can you drill the hole in the sweep first and then tape or clamp it into place in he window and use the holes in the sweep to keep it from walking.

[Aaronoregon]

That's fine if you remember to do it before you paint, but have you ever tried to find all those tiny holes through 1/8" thick fuzzy stuff?

[forestb]

What size if hole do you drill and what size of screw?

[1966shortwide]

I think I posted this before but this is what I did to correct the window from going to the top. I put new sweeps in my 66 and had same problem . I took the window out of the lower glass setting channel and tapered the top edge front to back and do both side's of the channel.I used a flap wheel on a electric grinder as the flap wheel will leave a smooth edge on the taper .Make it about 45 degree's. Then you can rattle can paint it to keep fron rusting. Then reinstall the glass in channel. This let's the channel squeeze in between and up all the way ,rather than having a sharp edge to wedge against sweep's and bind . I have no problem rolling window to the top whatsoever ever.I think I got my sweep's from LMC which probably make's no difference where I got them,since some of you have tried different brand's.

[forestb]

Thanks that makes a lot of sense I will give that a try. Either I did not see your post befor or I did not quite understand what you were saying.

Originally Posted by 1966shortwide

I think I posted this before but this is what I did to correct the window from going to the top. I put new sweeps in my 66 and had same problem . I took the window out of the lower glass setting channel and tapered the top edge front to back and do both side's of the channel.I used a flap wheel on a electric grinder as the flap wheel will leave a smooth edge on the taper .Make it about 45 degree's. Then you can rattle can paint it to keep fron rusting. Then reinstall the glass in channel. This let's the channel squeeze in between and up all the way ,rather than having a sharp edge to wedge against sweep's and bind . I have no problem rolling window to the top whatsoever ever.I think I got my sweep's from LMC which probably make's no difference where I got them,since some of you have tried different brand's.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by 1966shortwide

I think I posted this before but this is what I did to correct the window from going to the top. I put new sweeps in my 66 and had same problem . I took the window out of the lower glass setting channel and tapered the top edge front to back and do both side's of the channel.I used a flap wheel on a electric grinder as the flap wheel will leave a smooth edge on the taper .Make it about 45 degree's. Then you can rattle can paint it to keep fron rusting. Then reinstall the glass in channel. This let's the channel squeeze in between and up all the way ,rather than having a sharp edge to wedge against sweep's and bind . I have no problem rolling window to the top whatsoever ever.I think I got my sweep's from LMC which probably make's no difference where I got them,since some of you have tried different brand's.

Ill have to try this as well as mounting the next set up higher. I though I got off easy since the power regulators push the lower window channel past the fuzzies. Unfortunately, i didn't grind the edges down and the sharp edge that you mention have torn the drivers side fuzzy meaning.. you guessed it. Have to do them again. At least I might be able to get them right this time.

[The Rocknrod]

Anyone try Metro's sweeps yet?:
http://metrommp.com/?f=detail&ModelN...l=C10%20PICKUP

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Anyone try Metro's sweeps yet?:
http://metrommp.com/?f=detail&ModelN...l=C10%20PICKUP

They are right proud of those puppies

[The Rocknrod]

Steele Rubber Products is even more: http://www.steelerubber.com/wflt-f26...4-6-80-0059-57
But I don't know if one is any better than the other.

[The Rocknrod]

The Repop company part #CT160 on this page: http://www.repops.com/product-search...2&mo=102&yr=19

[forestb]

I have tried the Repops and the Steele Rubber and they are both the same and have the same bad design.

[1966shortwide]

Repop's are repop's period.Most likely all the same. Mounting those with screws and higher is not necessary. Maybe with screw's would be a good idea if you planned to remove easier if needed in the future and would not break clip's otherwise. I used the clip's that are on the sweep's and only beveled the channel's and have no issue with raising window to the top. Maybe the original sweep's were made different, don't know ,but do know when I replaced sweep's that is when I encountered the window issue.

[The Rocknrod]

I'd like to see an original outside sweep, I bet it was a type of wiper.

[1966shortwide]

No, I have a original extra door I bought years ago and they have the same design what I can see from the top.