Flip kit axle location

[MotorHead Lon]

Did you need to shorten driveline?
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My perches arent welded yet, everything is in mock up. I will be drilling the perches before the are welded to the axle.

[KQQL IT]

Only if you want to center the rearend. Just did a flip this weekend and will be shortening the drive shaft and centering the axle back up.

Looks goofy back in the fender.
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[wraprail]

I agree looks lame with the wheels back. Shorten your driveline (or go to pic-a-part with a tape measure and find one) is the only way to do it
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[slimneverdies]

What's the difference between this method you guys are using and the 5'' brackest that specialtyretail sales on this board? I already have some new spring perches but if I have to buy lower spring pads too I may as well just buy the 5'' brackets. Is there any big difference because to me it looks like the 5'' brackets is just one step???

Heres the brackets that Im talking about

[rusty76]

anybody have a good before and after pic. Like after they put the flip kit on with the wheels moved back and after they relocated the wheels to center? Might be asking for much but I'm curious as to how all this looks.

[Swed-Chevy]

Originally Posted by slam59

What all exactly do you have to buy parts wise to do a drop in the rear using this method of lowering? How much about does it cost? Need new shocks in the rear afterwards?

Was thinking to buy drop shocks from LMC :

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=143

Any more tip about drop shocks who will fit without shock extenders ?

[slimneverdies]

Hey guys, does the stock hanger plates need to be drilled even with the large dimple in the plate for the offset hole? Will the hurt the setting up of the pinion angle? Also the spring perches that I have are a little thicker than the stock ones, will that be an issue?

[iehotrod]

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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by slimneverdies

Hey guys, does the stock hanger plates need to be drilled even with the large dimple in the plate for the offset hole? Will the hurt the setting up of the pinion angle? Also the spring perches that I have are a little thicker than the stock ones, will that be an issue?

The new bracket should already be pre drilled to set the ubolt a straight otherwise go ahead and drill your stock one. Those keeps the bracket loaded equally on both sides
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[jjzepplin]

If the perches are taller then all you need are new bolts that are a bit longer. I see one that is badly rusted and a big chunk is missing so new bolts are needed any way. Looks like it would be difficult to drill that plate with that angle but if those bolts are not straight up vertically you will need to do something about it. The bolts should not be at an angle. Maybe different flatter plates. I am doing this how you are but using my 4wd plates that are flat and have an elongated hole in them. I like the method you are using for durability. I am thinking of using the perch on the top for a bump stop or traction device.

[Tx Firefighter]

I used a pair of generic Mopar axle saddles from Summit...12 bucks. I reused my spring plates and u bolts.

When installing them I drilled the holes offset like everyone recommends and it looked horrible. The wheels were offset to the rear of the fender opening.

So I installed it using the center holes in the axle saddles. That is to say, I did not offset it any. The driveshaft is an unmodified 87 swb driveshaft which fits fine. Now it looks centered like it should.


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[LEEVON]

Originally Posted by slimneverdies

Hey guys, does the stock hanger plates need to be drilled even with the large dimple in the plate for the offset hole? Will the hurt the setting up of the pinion angle? Also the spring perches that I have are a little thicker than the stock ones, will that be an issue?

I did mine yesterday, and I did have to drill a 1/2" hole in the spring plate, at the location where the bolt hits in your third photo.

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

If the perches are taller then all you need are new bolts that are a bit longer. I see one that is badly rusted and a big chunk is missing so new bolts are needed any way. Looks like it would be difficult to drill that plate with that angle but if those bolts are not straight up vertically you will need to do something about it. The bolts should not be at an angle. Maybe different flatter plates. I am doing this how you are but using my 4wd plates that are flat and have an elongated hole in them. I like the method you are using for durability. I am thinking of using the perch on the top for a bump stop or traction device.

The perches arent to long but they are to wide cause they are very thick (3/8'' thickness). Should I try to grind some of the thickness down or look for something different? They are for a 4x4 truck. Whatever I do it has to be with parts that I can find in a store cause I needmy truck back today lol..

Originally Posted by LEEVON

I did mine yesterday, and I did have to drill a 1/2" hole in the spring plate, at the location where the bolt hits in your third photo.

Do you have a pic of what youve done?

Any of youguys have issues with your pinion angle when it was all over?

thanks
Slim

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I used a pair of generic Mopar axle saddles from Summit...12 bucks. I reused my spring plates and u bolts.

When installing them I drilled the holes offset like everyone recommends and it looked horrible. The wheels were offset to the rear of the fender opening.

So I installed it using the center holes in the axle saddles. That is to say, I did not offset it any. The driveshaft is an unmodified 87 swb driveshaft which fits fine. Now it looks centered like it should.


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It seems that some guys with the stepside beds did not have to offset the perch for some reason. My suspension isnt all back together and theres no weight loaded on there yet but it looks like my wheels are a little to far forward. The driveshaft is pushed all the way into the tranny also because I have to put the spring latches back in postion when its on the ground.

[walkerb]

Tx Firefighter- nice truck

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by walkerb

Tx Firefighter- nice truck

Thank you. I'm trying to build it as absolutely cheap as possible just to keep myself busy and challenged. I'm hoping for running and driving less than 1500 dollars total. So far the new tires, suspension rebuild and drop spindles have me somewhere near 1000.

It started off like this....


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[walkerb]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Thank you. I'm trying to build it as absolutely cheap as possible just to keep myself busy and challenged. I'm hoping for running and driving less than 1500 dollars total. So far the new tires, suspension rebuild and drop spindles have me somewhere near 1000.

It started off like this....


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Much better looking now, Ive always loved the steppers.

[SigFTW]

Originally Posted by slimneverdies

What's the difference between this method you guys are using and the 5'' brackets that specialty retail sales on this board? I already have some new spring perches but if I have to buy lower spring pads too I may as well just buy the 5'' brackets. Is there any big difference because to me it looks like the 5'' brackets is just one step???

Heres the brackets that Im talking about

I have the same lowering clips that came with the truck I bought. It was not mounted and I had no ideal how to mount them. Do you know where to get the install doc?

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by SigFTW

I have the same lowering clips that came with the truck I bought. It was not mounted and I had no ideal how to mount them. Do you know where to get the install doc?

I have no idea where to direct you for that. If its the same one that I have it would be the same as everyone else on this thread. Im still trying to figure out my pinion angle so I cant really be of any help, sorry

[Desert1957]

If you are not going to WELD the smaller perches to the housing, I would use the other style flip brackets. Without welding there is NO support to the rear housing and it will spin in the smaller bracket. I have seen it.





Desert

[SigFTW]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

If you are not going to WELD the smaller perches to the housing, I would use the other style flip brackets. Without welding there is NO support to the rear housing and it will spin in the smaller bracket. I have seen it.

Attachment 1097747
Desert

So the small C-brackets are used to keep the axial from spinning, right? If so that would make sense.

[Tx Firefighter]

In the top picture, the bracket rests against the original spring saddle on top of the axle. That keeps it from spinning.

In the bottom picture, that style of saddle doesn't extend up to brace against anything so it must be welded to the axle tube securely. Else, when you apply power, the entire axle will rotate upwards and you'll yank the driveshaft right out of the trans.

That's where the decision to buy a store bought versus homemade axle flip kit comes into play. The store bought one just bolt in and require no welding. The homemade ones use a pair of 12 dollar generic saddles but require setting your pinion angle and doing some welding afterward.

It's up to you to decide which is right for your budget and skill level. 80 dollars and easy or 12 dollars and more work.
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[SigFTW]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

In the top picture, the bracket rests against the original spring saddle on top of the axle. That keeps it from spinning. Posted via Mobile Device

When I bought my truck it came with the two new C-brackets and front lowering springs (not installed by the previous owner) and for the world I could not figure out how the heck these things worked. Now it's all clear!

Thanks guys!

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

If you are not going to WELD the smaller perches to the housing, I would use the other style flip brackets. Without welding there is NO support to the rear housing and it will spin in the smaller bracket. I have seen it.

Desert

Oh yes, yes, yes!!! I defintely did weld the perch to the axle. That picture was at the time of me doing the install and I had questions before I did anything that would be permanent. Thanks for the tip tho.

On another note I do have a little issue with the install. I have taken out the rear bumpstops and the rear seems to bottom out on the axle even with new shocks. Is it possible that my sprins are worn that badly or is it common to have this issue?

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by slimneverdies

Oh yes, yes, yes!!! I defintely did weld the perch to the axle. That picture was at the time of me doing the install and I had questions before I did anything that would be permanent. Thanks for the tip tho.

On another note I do have a little issue with the install. I have taken out the rear bumpstops and the rear seems to bottom out on the axle even with new shocks. Is it possible that my sprins are worn that badly or is it common to have this issue?

Ok. Glad to hear