The BCC No Limit build

[higXtech]

I have the wheel and tire combo sorted out. I have some budnik muroc 4s in the works and custom set of gold line 275/40/20s being made by dbtire. I don't think I've seen a set of 20 inch gold lines before. Can't wait
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[67cheby]

that willl be wild !

[808_67C10]

WOW, that truck looks better than my truck and thats what your starting with... I feel like a "low class" C/10 owner. Cant wait to see the finished product.

[steelhorse]

I'm in.

[duallyjams]

A hands on thread for all the good stuff.

[RWB-713]

Sign me up! Startin with a good clean truck like that sure is nice i bet!

[Low Elco]

Ok, we demand updates! This is gonna be too cool to just leave us hanging!

[robnolimit]

We decided to do something a little different when we started the build.
Usually we would pull the front clip and motor and trans. But, we wanted to see if we could swap front ends without a tear down. This may be more difficult in some areas, but we want to know. So, we started by removing all of the stock suspension components, then unbolting the stock crossmember. Because the crossmember supports the motor mounts, we needed to do something. First bit of extra work. We lifted the motor about 2", still bolted into the trans mount. Then we made some motor stands. 1" x .090 about 11" long, drill a 3/8" hole through one end. Bolt the stand to the front of the head and rest it on the top of the frame. Then we dropped the crossmember out.

[robnolimit]

Here is the new IFS crossmember. We had this powdercoated semi-gloss black. We weighed everything that came off the C10, it came up to 315 lbs. The new IFS weighs 205 total, with P/S. So there's an easy 100 lb savings. Another pluss for the WideRide IFS. when we first put it up, there was some struggling. The inner fenders are in the way, so we pulled them out. This would heve been done anyway to fit the notches, so I don't consider it extra.

[robnolimit]

Here is the crossmember in place. When it is first put up, four of the seven bolt holes line up with factory holes (per side) Three holes must be drilled in each side. We did some basic trimming on the inners just to get them back in (two bolts per) for a look see. They will need a bit more for A-Arm clearance.
So far so good. Time to bolt it in.

[widewhite70]

awesome weight savings!

[thelonerife]

subbed. Cool truck.

[Rusbuilt]

Looking good! Cant wait to see more!

[wild4wheels]

Dig the truck. Subscribed

[robnolimit]

Here is a shot of the upper A-arm in place. Our next step was to fit the inner wheel wells and put them back in.

[robnolimit]

When we were at this point, there was a decision to be made. In the picture here you can see how much the steering column comes through the floor. For our Wide-Ride install, as with any other IFS swap, the OEM column is too long. So, here's the choice. 1) remove the stock column and shorten it. This takes me about four hours, and you need some special tools. Also, I usually put a new turn sig switch in if i do that. Or, 2) Buy an IDIDTI column and put that in. For C10 builds I like a 30" universal column. The 'spec' column for C10's is just as long as the stocker, so no good.
We chose to put in a 30" tilt with shifter, powder coated black. If you count the labor, the difference is about $100 bucks, and you get a tilt column. More on that later.

[robnolimit]

Time to plumb the brakes. This is one of those project killers. I can't even guess how many car/truck projects are stalled due to plumbing and wiring. Hey, I get it, it's a pain, and if you get it wrong, it could be worse. For our standard WideRide IFS kits (48-60 fords and 55-59 chevs) we have a nice CNC formed line kit. I've been working on one for the C10 IFS, so here's a look at what we have going on.
The first step is to locate a termination point. We have a fitting that we machine from a 5/8" x 1" bolt, not the sexiest piece, but very effective. It is bored and threaded on each side with 1/8" NPT, that makes it very easy to work with. We decided to use the factory oval hole in the frame as a location for mounting.

[robnolimit]

Running the tubing is all about safety. You've got to look out for everything else that could interfere, rub, pinch, arc, heat..... or in any way put the brake system in danger. We have to think about things like the Rack and Pinion placement, motor mounts, oil pan, steering shaft, shifter link, headers and exhaust, battery cables, fuel lines........ I started with the passenger line, to get it over to the drivers side to a safe place to 'T' in with the drivers front line. Down on the crossmember and tucked in behind the rack is a nice safe place. The driverd side line is easier, tucked inside the frame rail. We have to be carefull that the lines don't rub on any of the other hardware or frame edges.

[robnolimit]

I'm sure you noticed that this is not the same truck. We are using a mock up chassis to fit the lines, then transfer them over the the project truck. We're making a couple of sets, and will be sending a set over to Classic Tube to be duplicated. The last run is from the 'T' back and up towards the master cylinder. We decided to run the line back to the toe board, then up the firewall, it was less crowded and looks better than the stock layout.

[higXtech]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

We have a fitting that we machine from a 5/8" x 1" bolt,... It is bored and threaded on each side with 1/8" NPT, that makes it very easy to work with. We decided to use the factory oval hole in the frame as a location for mounting.

that's clever!

[Rusbuilt]

looks great sir!

[robnolimit]

Here's a look at the brakeline on our project truck. Yes, we know the rack is loose, but you can see that the line is nice and safe. We have good clearance all around.

[robnolimit]

Here is a lok at the finish cut on the inner fenders. We check all the travel clearance with the A-arm stroke at full travell. Later we will put some pinch molding around the edge. Next we look at the other considerations. The drivers side headers drop too low. The header fits good, but the collector would be below the frame. We will have to do something to fix this.

[higXtech]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drivers side headers drop too low. The header fits good, but the collector would be below the frame. We will have to do something to fix this.

let me know if i need to order up a set of headers... looking good.. are you using the coilover just for mockup?

[robnolimit]

I modified these headers. We tried a few others that we had here, none were really right. We put the coil-overs in it to check the RH and spring rates on scales. Then the RideTech Shockwaves went in.