My Quest for Hot Rod Power Tour, Take 2

[mrhurt73]

after drilling many many holes, i assembled the rear kit. you will need a sharp 7/16" drill bit, a 1/2" bit is used for 4 holes, everything else is 7/16"

each rear bracket has 17 bolts per side, front brackets have 6 bolts each side.

[mrhurt73]

now onto the front end from scotts hot rods.

the first picture shows the two nuts welded into the frame assembly.
the second picture shows the holes not lining up, after calling justin he asked if i drilled out the holes to 1/2". my reply was no, after a little chewing on metal the bolts fit.

[mrhurt73]

now scott's hot rod gets an A for seperating bolts and labeling the bags.

parts go together pretty fast.

and you will have to drill the middle bolt hole on the top frame bracket.

[mrhurt73]

more parts showed up today, man this thing is huge, where am i going to put this? i can see the bed getting reorganized.

[oldman3]

73, looks like everything is going together nice,thanks for the extra info on the different frames, love the pics...Jim

[mrhurt73]

ok most of the front end is in for mock-up stage. most all comes back out to get painted, but i had to try the front on to check tire clearance and such.

[mrhurt73]

next i started taking parts off the engine.

i made it to the air conditioner, does anybody know the part no to tell vintage air to get the hoses in the kit to bolt up to this compressor?

and is this the pressure switch on the hose i took out?

[Kim57]

Looks like you're making some nice progress.
Keep the pics coming.
Kim

[mrhurt73]

engine test fit today, stay tuned for pictures tonight.

[oldman3]

I'll be waiting...Jim

[mrhurt73]

alright engine fits, first test fit was a success, i am going to have to send the engine cradles back to scott's to be remade, but justin did answer the phone twice on saturday morning. not many shops do that. hope they get them back fast

motor is a tight fit, but its not hitting anything, had to clearance around a/c unit and raised cab and made it easier putting in place.

[Wheelie]

A lot of progress, looking awesome!

[solidaxel]

What are you going to do for the wiring harness?
What is the going price for the trailblazer ex. manifolds, and what year?
Will the stock A/C compressor work with your vintage air evap.?
I am not at this stage yet for my next project, so keep up with the build and I will have more questions for you.
Your truck will be brand new when you are finished, nice work !!

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

What are you going to do for the wiring harness?
What is the going price for the trailblazer ex. manifolds, and what year?
Will the stock A/C compressor work with your vintage air evap.? I am not at this stage yet for my next project, so keep up with the build and I will have more questions for you.
Your truck will be brand new when you are finished, nice work !!

i am torn between fixing my harness that came with the engine or buying one, guess i better decide soon. ha ha

use this thread for manifolds http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=530623 i got mine for $115.00 from local GM dealer.

vintage air told me it will, they said the corvette compressor was the one that would not work. said something about corvette style being variable displacement.

thanks.

[mrhurt73]

so i tried the TBSS manifolds on for size, and they fit great.
I could have made the factory LM7 passenger side manifold work with a little trimming, but drivers side wasnt going to happen.

and on drivers side hold manifold carefully while bolting up or it slips and breaks of spark plugs like i did. ha ha

[mrhurt73]

now the truck is all the way down. and i thought i would need a F body oil pan. and yes sure enough the truck is sitting on the factory LM7 oil pan right now.

i order the kit from summit that is $149.00 before i read the depth real close, now i had to send it back, cause its really really close to a stock truck oil pan. it just doesnt have the low oil sensor in the side of the pan.

hey i made it to 100 post.

[Jonboy]

Smart man. Always listen to the wife, and avoid any arguments. Looks like an awesome plan as well.

[Kim57]

Looks like you're making good progress.
Good luck with getting the right pan.
Kim

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Smart man. Always listen to the wife, and avoid any arguments. Looks like an awesome plan as well.

when mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy.
ha ha nope i have a great wife, she lets me do this kind of stuff, so what do i have to complain about

[mrhurt73]

took the orginal heater out and it looked pretty cool, with the heater core designed around the fan motor.

then i started taking my wiring harness off the motor.

[mrhurt73]

and real important on the wiring connectors on the transmission shifter.

heat has to be applied to get them out, i pulled, tugged, twisted and nothing, almost broke them, then i decided to do a little web surfing and found heat is needed to break them loose.

and no joke, 1 hair dryer, 60 sec and plug slid right out.
would have never though of heating electrical connections, something about the compound used at factory turns to concrete when cold.

[mrhurt73]

on the main fan belt, isn't the tensioner suppossed to be under spring tension?
when you take the belt off isn't it suppossed to turn back around by itself.

mine just sits where you leave it, i'm thinking its broke or just full of crud stopping it up.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by mrhurt73

and real important on the wiring connectors on the transmission shifter.

heat has to be applied to get them out, i pulled, tugged, twisted and nothing, almost broke them, then i decided to do a little web surfing and found heat is needed to break them loose.

and no joke, 1 hair dryer, 60 sec and plug slid right out.
would have never though of heating electrical connections, something about the compound used at factory turns to concrete when cold.

GREAT TIP !!
I will have to remember that one when I un plug my harness.
Is that the only ones that need heat?

[Lower]

Thats the neutral safety switch, I exploded mine trying to unplug it.
If you use the factory fuse block there is only a few wires to worry about which makes it easy but not as clean if you tear it all the way apart.
If I were closer I would relieve you of that old front cross-member.
Keep it up its looking good.

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

GREAT TIP !!
I will have to remember that one when I un plug my harness.
Is that the only ones that need heat?

on the two plugs on the shifter needed heat, everything else worked as expected, fuel injectors had double locks on the plug, but they came right out once gray connector was removed.