Project "Booger"

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by BuiltwithIvy

look at some youtube videos that show the step by step process as well, this should let you know exactly what you are getting into, with pictures, hopefully of a transmission that is exactly like yours, and it will give you a better idea than a book, there are lots of pieces, but they are mostly "kits" of pieces that go together as you do it

Yea I've been watching tons of youtube vids...And now I'm contemplating painting too? LOL

Didn't get a dang thing done last night. Took the night off and relaxed..Something WILL get done this weekend!

[BuiltwithIvy]

haha, painting isn't too bad either, I've been contemplating buying a tent from Sam's Club to turn into a paint/blast booth in between the two shops we have built, but I am not near paint yet, and my dad's truck isn't quite ready yet either, so I will continue to wait

[americanthunder]

Well I had a rather productive weekend that would have been more productive had I not chosen Harbor Freight as my tool supplier. Since I sold my engine hoist when moving to Arizona about 6 years ago I decided to use my 20% coupon to go purchase an engine hoist at Harbor Freight. Got home, and got to step 1: Install 2 large casters on the base, 2 large casters on the legs, and two small casters on the front of the base. Guess what? Only two large casters and two small casters in the box. So back to Harbor Freight I go. Saturday afternoon I decide to take a stab at the assembly and proceed to step 2: Attach legs using 4 pins YAY I have all the pins but only two of the four holes line up! Ok well I'll just get out the 1/2" drill bit and make my own! Alright Im moving along now on to step 3: Attach upright to base using two bolts...And the holes dont line up! Now I could have redrilled but to further weaken the base is just plain stupid. So I load my half assembled lift into my truck and drive the 35 mins back to Harbor Freight where a nice manager says I have all the right parts but they sometimes require some modification and she introduces me to her "Assembler" who takes me to the floor model and shows me how he did it. In the place of the 1/2 bolt he had slipped an 1/8 inch one since it was all that would fit in the corners where daylight showed through. I told him this is an ENGINE HOIST you cant put that kind of weight on the main structure that holds it in the air! His response was well thats what you gotta do. I returned the hoist.

Long story short I swung into a Pep Boys since my time was tight and grabbed one from them that went together in about 10 mins. Ok its time to prep for the heart transplant!

First step drain the fluids. Dont think the previous owners ever changed the tranny fluid:


Not Looking So GOOD!

Crawled under the truck and started removing things when I noticed something that kinda killed any thoughts of rebuilding my tranny:


If you look real close beneath all that gook the case is cracked and part is missing.

I guess I'll be looking for another transmission....

Yanked out the old exhaust. Only had to make one cut just in front of the mufflers..The rest disintegrated:



Ok all set, no other surprises, and everything's unhooked ready to yank that puppy:



Now booger sits without a heart



Overall, I was called into work 3 times, had a terrible experience with Harbor Freight tools, but still managed to get alot done and I'd say that was a successful weekend.

[z-iowa]

Good work! Subscribed..

[jlsanborn]

You're really getting after it! HF is good for some things, others not so much.

I'm doing my first paint job and learning it all right here. Elco and a couple others have been my personal instructors and so far I'm really happy with the results. The hardest part is drawing that line in the sand in terms of how detailed you're going to get. You've already been pushing that line on this build I see

Keep up the good work! Anxious to see the crate motor

[gdavis]

I have bought several things from Harbor Frieght and I have never got something bad. I guess I am lucky. But I only buy things that I know will wear out soon. To save money.
Than the big box stores charge way to much and they wear out about the same length of time.

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by z-iowa

Good work! Subscribed..

Thank you! I'll keep updating as I progress!

Originally Posted by gdavis

I have bought several things from Harbor Frieght and I have never got something bad. I guess I am lucky. But I only buy things that I know will wear out soon. To save money.
Than the big box stores charge way to much and they wear out about the same length of time.

I totally agree. I've been buying disposables from HF for a great many years and never had an issue till this time. I think If they had had an intelligent life form working there things would have worked out better.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

You're really getting after it! HF is good for some things, others not so much.

I'm doing my first paint job and learning it all right here. Elco and a couple others have been my personal instructors and so far I'm really happy with the results. The hardest part is drawing that line in the sand in terms of how detailed you're going to get. You've already been pushing that line on this build I see

Keep up the good work! Anxious to see the crate motor

Yea I've been doing a little each day and trying to tackle the bigger stuff on the weekends meanwhile soaking as much information as I can on here to make things go smoother. The build would be so much harder without this forum.

Elco was one of the first to chime in on this thread and has provided great advice Im sure your paint will turn out fantastic.

I do know what you say about that line though. The deeper I get the more stuff I see that I want to replace. Every time I work on old booger I find myself saying "That needs to be replaced or I can't leave that like that" and writing it on my notepad. What started out as a driver has quickly become a very nice driver. So much for the budget

[Low Elco]

Aw, thanks guys! Glad I can be of some kind of help. Welcome to scope creep! I swear its easier just to do a Mike Holmes and rip it to the bones to start with. I think I've done more work on Yeller since its been done than I did building it!
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[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Aw, thanks guys! Glad I can be of some kind of help. Welcome to scope creep! I swear its easier just to do a Mike Holmes and rip it to the bones to start with. I think I've done more work on Yeller since its been done than I did building it!
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Hey Elco we're thanking you here Havent gotten much done this week very busy at work. They didnt design most of these plumbing systems for sub-freezing temps and I've been busy building the truck fund! Got a few boxes from Jegs but no motor yet. Frame is soaking as I type this so after work I can pressure wash. Wifes gonna love this mess

[Low Elco]

Oh, possible misunderstanding! Scope creep is a term where a projects focus just gets bigger and more of this and that, and since we're here we might as well, etc., until you for get what the hell you started off to do in the first place. No insult intended!
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[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Oh, possible misunderstanding! Scope creep is a term where a projects focus just gets bigger and more of this and that, and since we're here we might as well, etc., until you for get what the hell you started off to do in the first place. No insult intended!
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None taken...I was just saying we were thanking you and you were thanking us for thanking you!

Oh and this projects got scope creep alright!

[americanthunder]

Whew big weekend..First let me preface this whole writeup by saying if you are one of my neighbors I am sorry...Truly sorry for all the car parts laying around my front yard, pressure washer noise all weekend, and the occasional swear word yelled loud enough to hear it 9 blocks away

Friday at lunch I stopped home and as directed by others on here I soaked the whole engine area frame down with "Rinso" oven cleaner from the dollar store. Being close enough to Mexico to spit over the border it seems everything in our Dollar stores is Hecho En Mexico or Hecho For Mexican Consumption. Not sure if this plays into my results or if my engine compartment was just that bad but I went through 6 cans of oven cleaner and another gallon of purple power to get to where I can actually see bolts again! Keep in mind it was in the 70's this weekend and virtually no humidity so anything that was sprayed down dried up fast so that may also have kept the stuff from doing its job.

Friday soaking


Saturday soaking


Final Results


Now if you can get past the millions of tiny grease boogers stuck to the driveway and consequently sticking to everyones shoes... getting tracked into the house I'd say it was a success! I would like to publicly say sorry to my wife however!

On to the next task of removing the bed. Hmmm I saw lots of pictures on here of guys removing their beds with an engine hoist easy right? Seemed no matter where I tried to lift from I couldn't get a "balanced" approach and was always too far this way or that. Well in the middle of my frustration who comes walking up? My good old neighbor who was curious about my project and just happens to stand 6'4" and built like the packers center Garth Gerhart. I asked him if he had a minute to help me lift this little ol bed off Long story short he had no problem on his side but Im a very very very small man by comparison and we barely got it off...But we did get it off. When it comes time to put it back on I'm having the high school football team over for a barbecue.

Here it is off and in this photo you can also see the millions of tiny grease boogers all over my driveway:


Alright now I can work on the rear frame which was much easier than the front. With the exception of some old undercoating it came real clean with a wire wheel on my cordless drill and a quick degrease. I decided to go with Eastwoods rust encapsulator and then follow up with a few coats of Eastwoods satin black frame paint. Here is a before and after the rust encapsulator.

Before


Before I got going I noticed the passenger spring clamp on the rear was missing:


After (took the pic during the process.)


Ahhh is it Monday yet? Saturday night my Dad stopped over for a Scotch and water but before we got started I had him help me roll the bed up onto its side and proceeded to drink until my muscles didnt ache anymore.

Had some work to do Sunday morning to support my truck habit so before I left under the cover of darkness I soaked the entire bottom of the bed with purple power and upon arriving home I hit it with the pressure washer...Virtually nothing came off so I went inside to wake up my son and let him know it was time to work, donned a dust mask, and some goggles and proceeded to wire wheel for the next 4 hours. This photo was taked during the process:



Alright, everythings wire wheeled and degreased Im ready for some paint! I decided to just use good old Rustoleum satin black on the bottom of the bed hopefully I made the right decision. Here is my son applying the paint:



And the final product:



Some things I learned this weekend...

1. Clean greasy parts of the truck someplace other than your main traffic area.
2. It takes more than two of me to lift an 8' bed off a 1970 Chevrolet.
3. Buy better dust masks.
4. The pressure washer has a low oil shutdown. Always check the oil!
5. The stuff that comes off of old trucks shouldn't get on the driveway, your face, or in your nose.
6. You can never have enough spare batteries for your cordless drill.
7. Im in way over my head

[americanthunder]

Forgot to add something..While waiting on my degreaser and oven cleaner to work, and in anticipation of my new motor and trans from Jegs I decided to start removing parts from my old motor to clean them up. When I removed the passenger exhaust manifold it had hairline cracks on the front bolt (assuming its because thats where the AC mounts). Can this be welded or do I just get a new one? Its cracked both top and bottom tough to see in this picture:

[Low Elco]

Get a new one. Dorman makes them, bout $50 brand new. They crack a lot. Work looks GREAT! I keep my old paint respirators, they work great for filtering dust, even after the charcoal is dead. They seal up good and stay on your face. You can get em for $15 at HF.
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[Palf70Step]

just get a new one. Your build is looking real good!

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Get a new one. Dorman makes them, bout $50 brand new. They crack a lot. Work looks GREAT! I keep my old paint respirators, they work great for filtering dust, even after the charcoal is dead. They seal up good and stay on your face. You can get em for $15 at HF.
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I was looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C17GVI/ref=ox...
Know of a better place to get them? Looks like my cost is about 80 bucks with shipping. Thanks!

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

just get a new one. Your build is looking real good!

Thank you sir!

[jlsanborn]

Awesome progress and looking great!! You're blazing through the yuckiest part. A little late now, but a couple of cardboard boxes flattened out covers a lot of ground. A blanket works good when there's water involved. Lets the water through but catches the crap like a coffee filter. If you're fond of that cordless drill I'd buy a cheapo corded drill for the wire wheel. Drills don't like side load. Look for the RPM on the nameplate and get the fastest one you can find. A grinder actually works best but it's a little savage. NO LOOSE CLOTHING! You can also expect yourself as well as by-standers to be tattered with little poison darts Safety glasses DEFINATELY required for anyone in the area. If you've got a shop-dog, put him in the back yard when the grinder comes out.
x3 on the manifold. I've seen cast welded with some sucsess (heat, weld, peen, heat, weld, peen, ...) but I've always brazed. I've also seen a lot of small block manifolds that don't wanna bolt up real good. Usually you can heat them (I've thrown one on the fire!) and use welding gloves while you get the bolts started.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

A grinder actually works best but it's a little savage.

Man card,.... Under review..... This from a man that has a 1-ton big block crew cab and yanks trees up mountainsides with it. Hmmmm...

My knot brush on my 4 1/2" Dewalt rips 'er down great! They sell something similar at HF for like $10, look in Bomp's thread. Get the brushes at the weld supply or a good hardware store. Makes life a lot easier.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by americanthunder

I was looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Know of a better place to get them? Looks like my cost is about 80 bucks with shipping. Thanks!

rockauto.com, and I think you can get 'em without the AIR ports.

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Awesome progress and looking great!! You're blazing through the yuckiest part. A little late now, but a couple of cardboard boxes flattened out covers a lot of ground. A blanket works good when there's water involved. Lets the water through but catches the crap like a coffee filter. If you're fond of that cordless drill I'd buy a cheapo corded drill for the wire wheel. Drills don't like side load. Look for the RPM on the nameplate and get the fastest one you can find. A grinder actually works best but it's a little savage. NO LOOSE CLOTHING! You can also expect yourself as well as by-standers to be tattered with little poison darts Safety glasses DEFINATELY required for anyone in the area. If you've got a shop-dog, put him in the back yard when the grinder comes out.
x3 on the manifold. I've seen cast welded with some sucsess (heat, weld, peen, heat, weld, peen, ...) but I've always brazed. I've also seen a lot of small block manifolds that don't wanna bolt up real good. Usually you can heat them (I've thrown one on the fire!) and use welding gloves while you get the bolts started.

Great information! Initially I did have a blanket underneath BUT using a red nozzle at 3000psi the stuff is even all over the house and as far away as 50'. Next time I'll build a containment!

Originally Posted by Low Elco

rockauto.com, and I think you can get 'em without the AIR ports.

RockAuto seems to list the identical part numbers for my year. Here is the link to the product on RA http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...211&cc=1029833 Noob Question...What are the AIR ports? For the emissions related air injection like my mid 80's Blazer? I dont believe mine had such a thing on it. Thanks again for your help

[jlsanborn]

Elco's right on the muny with the twist knot type. That's what I brush my teeth with. Wifey gets pissed cuz the grinder is so noisy in the bathroom tho. The GFI in there don't like it much either.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Elco's right on the muny with the twist knot type. That's what I brush my teeth with. Wifey gets pissed cuz the grinder is so noisy in the bathroom tho. The GFI in there don't like it much either.

Must.... Not.... Make..... Joke....

AIR ports are those little screw in plug thingys. You don't need em.
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[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Must.... Not.... Make..... Joke....

AIR ports are those little screw in plug thingys. You don't need em.
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So they are the holes for the air pump injection..Im not seeing on dormans web site that dorman makes any others than part#674-199 and 674-201 and both of those have the holes. Called RockAuto and they said the same thing. Do you have a part# for the ones without the holes? Maybe im just not asking the right question

[jlsanborn]

Makes sense that they'd machine them for the AIR and supply plugs. That way they cover all the applications with one part number. Check the classifieds on this site. I did a quick search and my first hit was.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=ramhorn