60-66 Trailer made from a 60-66 bed

[1963c-10]

got the frame and bed parts home. will need tailgate, lights and wiring to complete bed. steel floor and coupler to complete frame. pics to come
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[aerotruk63]

When placing your load in the trailer, the trailer manufacturers require 60% of the load over the front section of the center of the axle. You also have to keep in mind the tongue load, generally in the 200lb. range for pickup range. You'll see these types of specs stamped into the step bumpers or on the receiver units bolted to the frame. I don't think you'd be loading your new trailer to max capacity. More so than axle capacities, tire specs are important here. Were not allowed to use passenger type tires on a trailer and the tire stores are not allowed to sell or install a passenger type tire onto a rim KNOWN to be installed on a trailer. Trailer tires have different ply styles to allow the tread to twist. There are trailer tire ratings with letters that will indicate their capacity. Trailer tires are available in Bias Ply and Radials. Generally a trailer radial will start with an ST then the tire size.
I've found that a Bias Ply tire will hold more load and remain stable, but they bounce along the road when unloaded. Radials run smooth behind the tow vehicle. Of course you have to get stopped by an officer for these rules to apply and that will happen if you ever have an accident involving your trailer. There is a Grandfather clause to the rules here if the trailer was built years ago before the new rules came into play. However there's no Grandfather clause for commercial trailers.
Not trying to hijack your thread, perhaps you might want to ask your local DOT before you go to far.
You are allowed to build your own trailer here with a 1000lb capacity, but it cannot be used commercially. Tail lights, clearance lights and reflectors may be required when you go for licensing unless you have a trailer plate already. Trailer registration here have the color and number of axles and tire specs indicated. we have 6 single axles trailers in the family and two dual axle trailers to which we swap plates between. Dad has been stopped once in all his life for the trailer and they never enforced anything.

[1963c-10]

an engine or a load of wood would be about the max weight id use it for.
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[Lugnutz65]

I saw this one at the Charlotte Auto Fair yesterday.

[ChiefRocka]

Yes ....

[1963c-10]

looks great, really like the patina
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[TommyDuncan]

I went on a drive down route 66 in Northern AZ this weekend and I must have seen a dozen of these. 5 or 6 60-66 style, at least one for sure short bed, and 2 or 3 67-72 style.
I also found a 64-66 bbw shortbed that I will be trying to buy soon!
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[1963c-10]

Heres a few pics, more to come.

[Sharps40]

I think you have a problem. The bed is channeled a bit low over the frame and appears to be dragging on the ground. It'll be easy to load but hard to tow!

[1963c-10]

haha...yeah right. Although I like alot of the bumper draggers, they are not for me.

[Clyde65]

just a question but would it be a good idea to spray CLR or something like that on a frame to "clean it up" a bit before you spray chassis black or POR15 on it?

[1963c-10]

Clyde.....I plan to redo the frame while its disassembled. Clean it up, POR, new wiring, etc...alot of the parts I already have. New tail lights, pig tails....found some stuff last night while doing some digging. Tailgate, rear bumper and rear bumper mounts the 3 big ones to get. The shocks I will take from the 63 as I have new ones to install.

Do have a question as to the rear springs we installed. Moog variable rates....Moog shows them sitting as I have them installed, tight coils up. I have seen them installed both ways and have heard that it doesn't make a difference w/variable rate springs. Can anybody shed some light on this?

[TommyDuncan]

I would mount them however they physically fit the mounts best.

I am new to these rigs but I have some experience with coil springs(I'm a Jeep geek).

The softer part of the spring(the tightly wound part) compresses faster whether it is toward the top or the bottom. Even though it is coiled tighter it is also a thinner diameter so it compresses easier.
They don't last real long on Jeeps that are rock crawled. Possibly because we cycle them farther and more than regular use.
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[1963c-10]

Thanks Tommy, thats what I thought too. I have them mounted as the Moog picture shows above. The direction's didn't say either. I think that they are correct as thet are and will leave them that way.

[1963c-10]

TTT....had a few people inquire about this

[LostMy65]

Any progress?

[1963c-10]

No, well, yes. I have gotten a rear bed panel and just got a great tailgate from perro13. Down to bumper brackets, rock guards and a bumper, then its bolts and I'll have all the parts needed. I have done some prep work to the frame, but have not painted it yet. I have new shocks for the 63, so I'll just take the used ones off for the trailer.

Theres a local guy who drives a 66 service truck and does welding. I plan to have him come over and do the welding work for me. My goal is to be done and painted by Jan 1.

[jtrichard]

one thing i would do is get rid of the "rear/differential" axle and go with a straight axle (find a trailer with round tube and 6 lug) or you can get the hubs and spindles ... http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs...-213-5UC1.html .. ( the spindles that fit are on the same page in what people bought with the hubs) and build your own to fit with 6 lug to match your truck (assume its still 6 lug) some states do NOT allow rear axles to be used one reason is that no one keeps up with the oil level in the diff. and the next thing you know things tend to lockup... the other thing you want is the tongue as long as possible/feasible the longer the tongue the easier it is to backup and the better it follows

[aerotruk63]

A lot less drag as well. Sell off the rear axle to help fray the costs of the straight axle, 6 lug. There's so many options when it comes to trailer axles.

[1963c-10]

im considering rebuilding the rearend and installing the factory posi unit i have thats sitting here rebuilt. then just swapping it out and putting it in my 63. still 17 spline, but it would upgrade to bolted on backing plates if i decided to go to rear disk in the future

[1963c-10]

gives me an extra set of axles at the least. the 17 spline are getting harder to find

[jtrichard]

there is another reason to put in a straight axle you don't waste a good set of 17 splines

[1963c-10]

Very true..

[TJ's Chevy]

I had a long bed fleet side trailer made from a 60 chevy bed. OEM axle underneath that was gutted and had 3/4 ton coils. I sold it though. Don't really wish I still had it cause I didn't need it....but sometimes I wish I still did!

[jtrichard]

i have a 3/4 73 crew cab frame (nice long tongue) with a utility box on it and i put soft plugs in the axle tube ends cut the axle shafts off just had the flange used them for bearing caps packed the wheel bearings ( 3/4 ton axles are great for trailer as they are full floater ) pulled the ring and pinion out put rear cover back on and made a plate to cover the pinion hole put surge brake hitch on it used the original 13" brakes came out very nice