What year is my daughter's truck?

[TJ's Chevy]

The badge on the fender extention is a 65 and the badge on the fender is a 64.
The reverse light indicate a 66. Best way to tell what year it is, is to look on the drivers side kick plate, just before the vent door, for the available motors for that year. If the 327 V8 was not an option, then it is not a 66. If the 153 4 cyl is an option it would be a 64. 65 I am not sure. Does it have a 6 cylinder or a V8?

[aggie91]

Captainfab is correct. The Vin tag in the driver's door jam has been swapped for a 1960 C30. That is the Vin on the Registration and since you are in Texas and have a good registration, just verify that the Title matches the registration. Since you got the truck from someone you know, it should be straight forward to get the signatures on the title and forms needed to register it in your/her name.

As for getting parts, use the info from the frame, it matches most of the body. From the one picture, it looks like a V8 installed in the truck. Just ask for parts for a 1966 1/2 ton, 2 wheel drive, with a V8 (283 or 327). Keep a notebook of the parts you use since there are a lot of different parts that can fit the truck from a bunch of different years.

Let us know how it progresses!

[Robin_Siler]

Currently, it has a 305 v8 out of a 1984 chevy scottsdale. I guess my brother changed it out.

Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY

The badge on the fender extention is a 65 and the badge on the fender is a 64.
The reverse light indicate a 66. Best way to tell what year it is, is to look on the drivers side kick plate, just before the vent door, for the available motors for that year. If the 327 V8 was not an option, then it is not a 66. If the 153 4 cyl is an option it would be a 64. 65 I am not sure. Does it have a 6 cylinder or a V8?

[Robin_Siler]

Here are some more pictures. No other new information to go off of.

[TJ's Chevy]

There should be a metal plate on the drivers side kickpanel that shows the motor avaiability for the year. If you do not know were to look I can post a picture of were to look so you can see what i am talking about.

[Robin_Siler]

There is no metal plate. The kick panel looks like it has been painted over though.

[jonzcustomshop]

with all the work that has been done, it is real hard to tell, but the instrument cluster looks to be a 66, 66 had a silver surround, and 64-65 were black, you can't tell in your picture, but 66 only had 2 thin blue lines on the temp guage, while 64-65 were 1 solid blue line.

65-66 had the panhard bar located on the diff, while 64 was a little bit longer and located to a bracket welded to the axle tube.

if there is anything left of your emergency brake system, 66 had a one year only style that mounted around the perimeter of the frame, 64-65 came together and mounted in the center of a cross brace by the tail shaft of the transmission.

and.. going back over the thread, the frame vin is def. a 66, so I think you are safe by buying parts for a 66. most stuff 64-65-66 is just a cosmetic difference, so some 64-65 parts will work.

also looks like a factory automatic truck, your column looks like the right one for a 66, the wheel is obviously aftermarket....
I have found that turnsignal/shift/column stuff is all pretty year specific on 60-66, so if you need to order parts, or source used ones for the column make sure to buy 66 only, or do a side by side comparison if you are getting used stuff.

[Robin_Siler]

Really getting pissed now. I gave up on trying to figure out the year(s) of this truck. Now I am trying to get it road worthy so my daughter can have wheels for work and school.

It has all 4 turn signals working but no marker lights (front or rear), brake lights, or a license plate. I have power on both sides of the fuse block/ panel. I've been trying to get the instrument cluster out but the ignition switch is in the way along with the headlight switch. Any thoughts?

[Slow Build]

The ignition switch should have a small hole that you need to stick a straightened paper clip into which releases the collar so it can be unscrewed. The headlight switch has a button on the backside that you need to depress which releases the shaft so you can pull it out the front.

[Robin_Siler]

Thank you. I saw 2 small holes in the ignition switch. Looking for a paperclip now. Will also try that on the headlight switch.

[Robin_Siler]

Originally Posted by Woogeroo

tach install - pics and links

go there, follow the link about 'installing a tach in 64-66 truck... '

step by step, with pics, it is a little wonky, but once you figure out the switch removal, it is fairly straight forward.

-W

Already looked this. I'm still trying to get the ignition switch and headlight switch out.

[Robin_Siler]

Originally Posted by Slow Build

The ignition switch should have a small hole that you need to stick a straightened paper clip into which releases the collar so it can be unscrewed. The headlight switch has a button on the backside that you need to depress which releases the shaft so you can pull it out the front.

It's not working with the paperclip. Any other suggestions?

[Robin_Siler]

Originally Posted by Woogeroo

nevermind.

-W

But thank you

[jonzcustomshop]

unless you have a 60-61 ignition switch , that has part of the center over the lock nut, you do not need the paperclip to remove the center, on most 64-66 switches I have delt with all you need to do is unscrew the lock ring, you might need a big set of channel lock pliers to get it started if it is corroded in place.

to get the headlight switch: pull the lights on, then feel arounr the top of the switch, push the button in , and pull the headlight rod out.

sometimes I have found that the flat end of an old lug wrench is just the right size to unscrew the chrome bezel for the switch.
they do not reproduce the bezel/nut, so try to keep it in good shape.

if you did not do it: the wiper switch and lighter need to come out too.

[Captainfab]

Your light issue could be in the turn signal switch.