Parking brake help please;)

[OrrieG]

Here is the back end, stock brackets, relocated cable bracket and pivot rod spring.

[G&R's57GMC]

I'm using Lokar cable kit for the stock hand lever (also works with foot system) and their universal rear cable kit.

I'll be using the stock multiplying lever on the chassis.

[Denee007]

Orrie, you're incredibly clever! Do you see that picture below? I took that part off less than a week ago, and I can't find it anywhere! It's driving me crazy not being able to find it! Anyway, Orrie thank you for the pictures (it takes time to find and post pictures!), and I like your exhaust too~ looks so well done! When I get this parking brake thing over with, exhaust is next, then drive the truck!
The front cable that I do have, won't reach the area on the frame in what you did. My cable is shot anyway.

And G&R's57GMC~ I've been looking at the Lokar thing too! Your system looks nice too!

However, I pm'd Russell, and I think he'll be chiming in a little later. I think his system, despite the cost, would be the path of least resistance for me. I can do a couple hundred more at this p-p-point (starting to stutter). Perhaps the old hand brake might look kind of nice!

I haven't accomplished a thing today I'm going to look for that part again!

[Russell Ashley]

D'ne, here's a little more info about how I did mine. That Lokar setup looks very similar to what I got from Control Cables, but being it's Lokar I would guess that it would cost more. CC will fax or mail you a sheet that you fill out. Here's a pic of the sheet filled out with my measurements that I faxed back. I wanted to keep the original handle but get rid of everything else. After I got the cables from CC I made the simple adapter to hold the end at the firewall by welding a short section of pipe, cut at an angle to the original plate that the rod exited through, and welded a washer to the top end for a cable stop. There's very little fab work to do if you go this route. I connected all of my cables and then placed the bracket on the frame and marked where to drill the holes to mount it. The e-brake handle is very close to my a/c outlet but leaves enough room to operate it so I can live with it. The whole setup from CC was $144 plus $10 shipping.

[Denee007]

Wow! what a coincendence~ we pretty much have the same setup! I have a 12 bolt rear, you have a 12 bolt rear with 11 brakes, I do too!

I don't quite understand how the cable comes through the firewall; is that a special bracket making the required turn downwards? Is that something you made?

oh, I did speak to a nice person where you bought your parts, I mentioned your name and he was able to pull up the record of what you bought~ I thought he was going to call me back, but I haven't heard from him yet. He said this would be an fairly easy setup.

[Denee007]

I have another problem: What do I do here? Is there another axle I could get~ say rear disc brake?

[Russell Ashley]

Look through your junk pile and see if you don't find that plate that screws to the firewall. It is an original part that held a seal to seal around the original e-brake rod that came through the firewall. I cut a short piece of pipe at the correct angle to aim the cable like I wanted and welded it to the plate. Then I welded a washer to the top that the end of the cable just fit through. The cable end has a flange that stops it from coming any farther through. The large "C" clip came with the cable. I had to enlarge the hole in the firewall only slightly to get the pipe through so I could screw the bracket to the firewall.
Looks like you will definitely be swapping rear axles. I guess you could look at it as a good opportunity to get rear disc brakes. As close as you are to driving it, if it were me I'd button it back up and at least be driving it around the block until I obtained a new axle.

[Denee007]

Thanks Russell, but I have it up on the stands and I can have the axle off in a jiffy! I just figure If I'm going to get the rear parking brake cables, I'd better have the axle in that I'm going to use. I'll look for that part you're speaking of, never know!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Denee,

What am I missing? I see some rust (I guess) on a couple ring gear and pinion teeth an I see the lube is dirty but why do you have to swap rearends for this? If it IS minor rust, isn't that just a matter of those teeth not having been rotated into the grease for an extended period of non-use? I on't claim to be any expert on rearends but it otherwise looks ok to me.

[Denee007]

Well, I guess it's the pits in the gears (spider gears?). About a cup of 90wt came out, but there wasn't any metalflake looking stuff in it or chunks. I guess the appearance kind of scared me. I'll go ahead with the regular plan then, put some fresh 90 wt in it and see what happens.
Thanks Dan, just needed some reassuring~ I could live with a little whirring/whine, besides its not a car so may not be as loud if it does make noise.
dne'

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Denee,

What am I missing? I see some rust (I guess) on a couple ring gear and pinion teeth an I see the lube is dirty but why do you have to swap rearends for this? If it IS minor rust, isn't that just a matter of those teeth not having been rotated into the grease for an extended period of non-use? I on't claim to be any expert on rearends but it otherwise looks ok to me.

Some of the gear teeth look pretty well pitted and I think that will be the killer. It might last a good while since the truck probably won't be driven that much, but I think eventually it will have to be changed, or repaired. I'd follow the advice of some of the others and flush it out and add some heavy gear oil and drive it.
Back in the old days I've heard of used car lots adding oatmeal and/or banannas to temporarily quieten down a worn axle, but I don't recommend that, D'ne.

[solidaxel]

If it is bad when you drive the truck, it will give a lot of warning before it fails completely.
Drive it and keep your eyes out for another, use it all up and then replace it!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

...Back in the old days I've heard of used car lots adding oatmeal and/or banannas to temporarily quieten down a worn axle, but I don't recommend that, D'ne.

The one I heard was throwing some sawdust in there! EEK.
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[OrrieG]

Sawdust was a trick my grandfather talked about. Modern equivlent is STP if you can still find it, I added it to a whiney VW trans axle and it helped. I'd drive it, my Chevelle had a little whine in the rearend when I got it 18 years ago and 100K miles later it is still going strong. I abused the heck out of those old 10 and 12 bolts as a youth and only broke one, universals usually went first.