Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block

[derotoreut]

I decided to remove the distribution block to bench test it. Using my multimeter, I found that no matter what position the spool valve was in, the block showed continuity; even if I center the spool valve. I thought that maybe during my bench bleeding efforts I caused the spool valve to move thus making contact with the switch pin, causing it to go to ground. Nope... this unit is defective and has promptly been returned. The distribution block I bought was a model PR-112 from Inline tube http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/PR-112.htm.

Hopefully a new distribution block solves the problem. I will keep you updated.

[TBONE1964]

Good to know and a reminder that just because it came off a shelf in a box does not always make it OK.

[68c10airstream]

Hi again, if your replacement looks like the picture in #15 thread(if thats what they call it) the rubber boot that sits horizontally at the 9 oclock position should be removed and a service tool is a fork looking tool that slides over the nose of it to push the plunger in when the front line is being bled so the spool doesn't **** over. I used to remove the boot and watch the plunger when someone else pushed on the pedal. If the system was properly balanced ( equal pressure front and rear) the plunger wouldn't move. If it moved you would have to look at the system health, air in lines, swelling flex hosed, rear shoes way out of adjustment, etc. I'm recalling from memory as i switched fields to work in the power industry 14 years ago. I enjoyed the challenge of doing a proper brake job. I got into more than one arguement with coworkers and management on doing a proper brake job. If you ever want to know how to do a late model brake job on a vehicle with abs, etc, email me. I'll stand on the podium (probably will be pushed off by someone) and teach you how to do a proper brake job that will rival the best shop. Nothing like being an informed customer. Good luck, Brian F.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

Hi again, if your replacement looks like the picture in #15 thread(if thats what they call it) the rubber boot that sits horizontally at the 9 oclock position should be removed and a service tool is a fork looking tool that slides over the nose of it to push the plunger in when the front line is being bled so the spool doesn't **** over. I used to remove the boot and watch the plunger when someone else pushed on the pedal. If the system was properly balanced ( equal pressure front and rear) the plunger wouldn't move. If it moved you would have to look at the system health, air in lines, swelling flex hosed, rear shoes way out of adjustment, etc. I'm recalling from memory as i switched fields to work in the power industry 14 years ago. I enjoyed the challenge of doing a proper brake job. I got into more than one arguement with coworkers and management on doing a proper brake job. If you ever want to know how to do a late model brake job on a vehicle with abs, etc, email me. I'll stand on the podium (probably will be pushed off by someone) and teach you how to do a proper brake job that will rival the best shop. Nothing like being an informed customer. Good luck, Brian F.

Good to know. Thanks Brian. I may PM you some time if I need help on brakes. My distribution block does not look like the one in thread #15. It's actually a little different. I have some pictures of my engine compartment, which show the distribution block. I also have a link to the one I purchased listed, which was a model PR-112 from Inline tube http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/PR-112.htm.