49 AD Frame up Resto

[pvienneau]

I'm going to try to start soon, any suggestions on temp wiring to start and hopefully to stop.

THX

[Root2812]

To run the engine all you need is a positive and negative from the battery and a keyed power to the coil. If you have no key and just go hot to the coil then you will have to pull the coil wire off to turn the engine off.

That's it other than you need to spin the starter and have power to that.

[99 to Life]

oh hah at first I thought you were talking about a relay temp on off for say your fan, but seen your running a mech fan, now that root understood your question, I got you.

You want to just fire it up on the stand. What I do is wire up power to the starter and ground to the engine. I then get one of those push button start switches and or any toggle switch. Wire it to the + battery and the starter, since you have a foot button starter you prolly don't even need a switch cause the push pedal is engaging your selonoid, but having constant power to your selenoid prolly aint good so I'd wire up a toggle switch from your bat to your starter so it basically acts as a key. Thats all the key did in those trucks was connect the circuit so you can use your foot pedal to finish the circuit.

Make sure you got a pos wire to your coil and put a toggle switch in between your coil and battery so that way you can shut it off the engine off that way.

Very simple, just get power to your coil and starter, use toggle switches to enable and shut off power. You could hook up your gen/alt but it will run for a while with just a batt. Don't forget oil and fuel and coolant!!!!!

[SCHRUMGMC]

Loving the Build so far

[NotAverageJoe]

Great job. Any update on the build or engine fire up?
I'm in your neck of the woods by the way.

[pvienneau]

Hey Joe, I'm in Medford. I couldn't get the compression I needed to start the engine. It should have 70 at each piston. I am going to break it down all the way and if it just needs new rings which I suspect then I'll keep working on the 216, otherwise I plan to find a running 235,261 or other inline 6. They seem to be readily available because of the hot rodders dropping in small block V8s. I've found a few with tranny for under 500.

The build is on hold right now because I am repairing the bed on the other running truck.

[NotAverageJoe]

Thanks for the update. I am guilty of dropping a V8 in as well. I still have the 250 straight 6 that came with the truck, obviously not the original engine but it does run.
I plan to rebuild it over the coming winter. Weighs about 120lbs less than the 350 small block so I might have to replace the front springs if I decide to put it back in (to get the right height - dropped spindles only, no bags).
I'm about half way between Boston and Providence
Where have you seen the other 6's? I never see any on Craig's list. Or maybe I just don't look often enough.

[pvienneau]

No luck getting this the 6 running. Going to pull engine again and check rings. Pretty sure rings are gone. I'll know when I pull it apart.

[Hampshire]

That's really coming along very, very nicely....

I have a 49 also & live about 2 hours west of you. I have a 235, not the original 216. Runs very comfortably with a 3:73 rear. That wasn't the case before I started changing things.

It's more than halfway down on page 84 of "lets see your...."

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...335636&page=84

I see 1 or 2 ADs a week in my area (during the nice weather).

[pvienneau]

I think the pistons and valves are fine and the rings need replacement. If the engine needs to be done I'll be looking for a running 235 or 261. I am working on my wife's truck now. Need to get it back on the road. Just got the springs and will put it together this weekend.

Good to know there are other AD guys in New England.

[pvienneau]

Could not get the compression from the 216 included with truck so pulled the pistons and found some nice ridges in the cylinders and the rings are shot. Because this is not the original engine and without a serial number my plans for this build are changing to go with an engine upgrade. Next step is to decide on the inline 6 to replace for the 216. I prefer things with minimal mods but if the benefit out ways the work involved I don't mind. Now that this truck is no longer all original I need to rewrite the mission statement. Some things to note: I have cleaned and prepped the frame and it is dead straight ready for new power. I want to go with the 4 speed stick on the floor and want to keep the interior and exterior looking like a truck on the farm, however I am not sticking to the original plan to keep it all original. You guys agreed a 250 would be good but require modifying the engine compartment a bit. Maybe I will go with a 235 if the its a better fit.

[99 to Life]

yeah I think any inline thats not the 216 would be a better outcome for you. I got a 235 already mated up to a t-5 thats waiting on a way future build. Outta all the sbc and ls stuff I'll be doing, I'm really looking forward to having the inline with 5speed. So not sure if you'll be doing much highway driving but an open rearend and 5speed with say a 235, is a great combo. My friend in ohio makes adapter plates to run a t5. he knows everything there is to know about any trans conversion if your interested in going that route. he only deals with inline 6's pretty much.

[pvienneau]

99 that T5 has to go on an open shaft, correct? Or can you use a T5 on the enclosed original?

[99 to Life]

pvienneau, the easiest way for the swap would be to change out the rear end. To make a torque tube rear work, I think there is a way to swap some 3rd members into your current housing to do away with the torque tube set up. Honestly I think you'd be better off getting a donor rear end. If your serious about converting your torque tube, I'd find or start a thread on that, I personally don't know enough about the conversion.

once your trans is in place and whatever rear you go with (keep in mind stock location is about 2" off) then you can measure for your driveshaft. You may need conversion ujoints etc but thats not a huge deal.

[pvienneau]

OK, I will install the 235 with the SM420, then find a donor rear end. What is the recommended rear end? Once the rear end is in I can then look at shafts?

My goal is a truck that's original in looks and height but will update under neath so I can drive it on the highway.

[99 to Life]

You got some decent options out there. ford 9" and 8", GM cars and trucks. I usually look for s10 rear or blazer 4x4 rears with drum or disc. You gotta run spacers, but what I like about that is the control over the rear wheel tuck. Your gonna want to make sure you center the rear and possibly have to modify the perches. These trucks stock didn't center the rear wheels.

once you get your engine and trans in, you can determine your rears pinion angle. I like engine level to -1 deg with a carb. Then take your angle finder and measure the trans angle. say its -4 for example, you'll want to make your rear +4. Not sure if you know how to do the all this or not, just throwing some basics at ya. Since you may have to reweld some pearches on the rear, I'd just set the pinion angle and weld the perches. If you don't, you can get pinion shims.

[pvienneau]

A fellow member saw me in need for a running engine and helped out with a 235 with clutch, SM420 and muffler. Can't find better people out there than on this site. Justed dropped into the garage yesterday.

[pvienneau]

In regards to the fit. I pulled the same set up out of the truck, however engine was a 52 216 with a SM420. Obviously the one I dropped yesterday is a 235. It is a 55 so is full pressure.

[99 to Life]

nice score, very nice. I have practically the same exact engine sitting ready to be (dressed up to my taste) then dropped in. I got a t5 mated to it. but wait, that truck its going in is so far away from getting worked on again. shucks can't wait. You'll dig that set up though. I'm getting a pertronix kit for the distributor and doing away with the points. If you read up on guys swapping s10 distributors in there, I'm sure thats a possibility for ya too. I guess the newer distributors have a better vac advance set up. but either way there are some cool things you can do with that engine.

[iowaboynca]

Have you mocked up yet? The only reason I ask is I'm having a heck of a time yanking out a '56 235 out of my AD. Long story short the PO did some creative things to mount the engine, like notching the front crossmember and welding a 1/4" plate so he could move it 2" back. So it would clear the radiator is the only thing i can think of. I kept looking at how close my valve cover is to the firewall and kept telling myself, "that can't be right" Anyway I thought of you right away. Just wanted to give you a heads up. I'm sure it will be fine as like i said i've seen some creative things on my truck.

[Hampshire]

I saw Pat was in need of a good runner when I PM'd him a few months ago. He lives only a couple hours away, so it seemed to be a good fit. The engine has been a perfect runner & that's what he needed. He was also able to see the engine in the truck & hear it run. I'm really glad it is going to a good place.

Have you mocked up yet? The only reason I ask is I'm having a heck of a time yanking out a '56 235 out of my AD.

To pull it, we left the hood on and pulled the nose off - which is super easy to do (we've already done it 3 or 4 times to work on the FE). With the positioning of that rear cross member, it's the way to go.

[pvienneau]

I have not mocked it up but have installed it into the frame. The 216 is at the scrap yard in Chelsea MA. Starts right up with a little gas in the carb.

[Hampshire]

Way to go, Pat!

[pvienneau]

Got to now retro the water pump. Did some research this AM and found a early 55 adaptor plate to allow for the 216 water pump. Love this stuff.

[pvienneau]

Swapped out the water pump and harmonic balancer to fit the 49. Also refitted the radiator fins to give another 1/2 inch clearance from fan. The radiator now sits forward and the fan looks to be a better fit. I think the radiator is a upgrade fat boy from original.