I Found the Magic Button!

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Thank you.

You're welcome.

Originally Posted by litew8

Great, just what I needed to hear Mine is at that point in the build where I'd like to get alignment done. It'd be cool if you could provide the specs and we could copy. Not sure about moving the lower control arm out though. Would they do that for alignments? I've got lots of shims in mine, so I'm guessing not so great.

Stock and modified specs are thoughout this thread and my Alignment thread. You can click on the link in my sig. The lower arm is not adjustable, you have to move it forward not out to gain caster. That is not something they would do during an alignment.

[Lattimer]

Thought I would add to the thread looking for advice. Had my truck aligned for the second time last week. All front end parts are new (bushings/rod ends/balljoints/pitman/idler/springs/etc) and it has a 2" spring drop front and rear.

Local Mr Tire has been good to deal with and thy actually listen, so I go there for tire changes, alignments, and AC work----basically just the stuff I can't do myself.

Anyways, here is where mine wound up. Handles and drives decent, but steering return to center is still lazy. The shop had it for 2 days playing with it, and this is as far as they could get.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

Thought I would add to the thread looking for advice. Had my truck aligned for the second time last week. All front end parts are new (bushings/rod ends/balljoints/pitman/idler/springs/etc) and it has a 2" spring drop front and rear.

Local Mr Tire has been good to deal with and thy actually listen, so I go there for tire changes, alignments, and AC work----basically just the stuff I can't do myself.

Anyways, here is where mine wound up. Handles and drives decent, but steering return to center is still lazy. The shop had it for 2 days playing with it, and this is as far as they could get.

You can see in Post 23 that I explained that my truck is lazy on return to center too. Not enough positive caster. Just like mine, you'll have to dial in more caster. BTW, It looks like they have a Hunter machine too. They should have the "match using cross specs" feature on their machine as well.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

You can see in Post 23 that I explained that my truck is lazy on return to center too. Not enough positive caster. Just like mine, you'll have to dial in more caster. BTW, It looks like they have a Hunter machine too. They should have the "match using cross specs" feature on their machine as well.

That would entail moving the LCA forward, correct? I read the thread on doing that.

I guess the question would be how much do you really gain from doing that? Is it worth the work (and another $100 alignment) for the extra caster?

[BMERDOC]

Yeah, the Caster Mod. Redrilling the lower cross shaft.
As far as the worth of the modification, I'd say its worth it. Even if you aren't into performance you are making the truck safer. If you get in a situation where you have to grab a handful of steering wheel and the truck doesn't respond to your input like you need it to you could be in a pickle real quick. Making the truck respond better and safer is worth it in my opinion.

[ERASER5]

I read the Castor thread. I get the point, but some of us installed 73-87 crossmembers and all suspension parts as well. Does anyone know or have an educated guess as to whethere redrilling locators will work for these LCAs?

[BMERDOC]

It will work. It put the lower arm forward causing more positive caster. Some people run into clearance issues and can't run 3/4" forward. I am completing other projects on my truck and will be doing the Mod soon. I can guarantee I'll post my results.

[ERASER5]

So when I finally pull my springs out for replacement, I could just sort of clamp the LCA(no spring) 3/4" or so forward and look for clearance issues. With the knuckle still in place (on a support of some kind) I should be able to guesstamate how much forward I can go. Yes? No?

[BMERDOC]

Yeah. Pretty much. I plan to drill mine at 3/4" and 5/8" for experimental purposes. I think the 73-87 crowd is having clearance issues because of the bushings IIRC.

[jjzepplin]

I did the mod on my 73 front end and ran into the rear bushing a bit and just trimmed it to fit. If it fails I will replace and go 1/2" instead of 3/4". Should be ok though. Them buzzards are a beotch to replace. If I do it again I will weld in a piece of tubing cut in half to support both side from deflection during install of the bushing!

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I did the mod on my 73 front end and ran into the rear bushing a bit and just trimmed it to fit. If it fails I will replace and go 1/2" instead of 3/4". Should be ok though. Them buzzards are a beotch to replace. If I do it again I will weld in a piece of tubing cut in half to support both side from deflection during install of the bushing!

I hear you! I replaced every wear item when I did the disc conversion execpt those bushings. I was told no by 3 shops. Shrug. They looked OK, so I went with it.

[Steve Cole]

Hey Nick, just sent you a PM for some professional advice!

[BMERDOC]

Got it and responded.

[blazercrazy70]

great info thanks getting ready to have mine done

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by blazercrazy70

great info thanks getting ready to have mine done

Be sure to get a printout and share it with us in my other alignment thread!

[jammer3096]

I have been fighting my alignment on this finally got it aligned today and it drives worse than it did when I took it in this morning the only thing theyes adjusted was the toe any help would be appreciated thanks

[jammer3096]

My truck seems to drive worse since I had it aligned this morning the only adjustments that they did was the toe any help would be appreciated

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by jammer3096

My truck seems to drive worse since I had it aligned this morning the only adjustments that they did was the toe any help would be appreciated

Drives worse how? What is it doing?

A lot of alignment shops will only adjust the toe, they don't want to play with the shims.

I eventually went and bought a home alignment kit and did it myself. Took a few tries and I had to modify a few things, but I eventually got it to handle the way I wanted.

[jammer3096]

Over steering and kind of squirrelly feeling

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by jammer3096

Over steering and kind of squirrelly feeling

Sounds like you need a new place to take it.

My truck works best with 1 degree negative camber on both sides, and I put in as much caster as I could get without losing the camber. IIRC I have about 3 deg on the left and 2 on the right, and having a little less on the right kept it from pulling right with the road crown. I set the total toe 1/8" in. Tried it 1/8" out but it felt squirrely then.

I played with it and made a bunch of changes over several weeks until it drove nice. I had to realign it when I changed the spindles for the disk brakes. I pulled out all of the shims and started from scratch with all new shims. Hardest part is the tool I have only does total toe, so I had to get the steering wheel straight through trial and error.

I'd still like some more caster, but it drives nice enough that its not worth the effort unless I have to take it apart for something else.

[Lattimer]

I use this: http://www.quicktrickalignment.com

Pricey, but it paid for itself already.

[jammer3096]

Thanks for info. What size of tires and wheels you running? I'm running 8.5 tires and 18 rims. What does 1/8 transfer to degrees?

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by jammer3096

Thanks for info. What size of tires and wheels you running? I'm running 8.5 tires and 18 rims. What does 1/8 transfer to degrees?

I'm on 15x8 rally wheels and 29" tall tires, 10.5" wide.

Not sure on degrees, never looked at it.

[BMERDOC]

What condition are your tires in? With camber being at -.2, a little over 3° caster and toe being in the permissible range you should be OK. I'm concerned that maybe that out ta whack toe on the passenger side burned the treat on that tire and now it wants to do its own thing. Have they been rotated? What is the general condition of the steering and suspension, including the rear bushings and components? What are the rear Thrust numbers?

[0bad0boy7]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

I tested switching the uppers and it gives waay too much Caster (13° to 14°).

Do you remember what your caster was before reversing the arms? I am thinking it might work for me since I am at -4° caster. I'm pretty squirrelly going down the highway.

What I am thinking is: if you were at +2° and the reversed arms put you at +13°, then if I am at -4° I could end up at +7°