New Guy on the block..1956 Chevy Build

[dubie]

good job man. You're really cruising along on this one. it's funny how motivated you are when it's your dream truck isn't it

[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by dubie

good job man. You're really cruising along on this one. it's funny how motivated you are when it's your dream truck isn't it

Ya,.....im sure it will slow down..lol, I am just excided.

[wilberweb]

Bernman72,
Welcome to the forum.
Great looking truck.
I appreciate the excitement... Your truck Looks Great!! What front end are you going with?
I personally like the camaro.

This site is a great source of information.
All the guys on this forum have some amazing Talent for restoring old classic cars and trucks.I couldn't have got as far as I did with out them.

Best of luck
-Larry

[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by wilberweb

Bernman72,
Welcome to the forum.
Great looking truck.
I appreciate the excitement... Your truck Looks Great!! What front end are you going with?
I personally like the camaro.

This site is a great source of information.
All the guys on this forum have some amazing Talent for restoring old classic cars and trucks.I couldn't have got as far as I did with out them.

Best of luck
-Larry

Hello Larry, Thanks for the welcome.

I am going with the mustangII front end...I aready have it, along with the ford 9" rear end and four link in back.

I have been looking at all the post on this site and got a lot of info. We will see how this thing turns out.

[wilberweb]

Thats a good choice as well. I had a 53 ford f-100 I put a mustang ll they work great.


-Larry

[Bernman72]

Ok....Been working on the back bottom of the cab and filled in the gas hole. The cab cornners looked really bad. What are you guys using for rust removal? I have used vinagur and water mix, and some other brush on crap thats sandabal.

[OrrieG]

Rust removal: 1) media blasting or aggressive 3M purple disc to good metal than a good etch prime right away. 2) good metal but cannot get it all off I use the POR-15 system, it is an aggressive metal cleaner, followed by a rust converter, followed by the POR-15 "Paint", which appear to be an air activated epoxy. It is hard, but not real sandable so I only used it in areas where absolute flatness was not required (floor board, inside of cowls, frame, etc.). Wear gloves and clothes you can toss, it sticks to everything and does not come off. It is not UV resistant so it needs top coated. 3) bad metal, remove and replace with good panels. Do not forget to paint the inside welds! For areas like that I use a brushable rustoleum oil based rust preventaive primer, white color so I can see where it has been put on. I did all of my under dash area, makes it much easier to see when wiring and installing stuff.

[Ferrofil]

I saw this aussie guy on youtube that had a tub of half water and half melassis for rust removal, seemed to work excellent for parts and loose objects
I just bought a sandblastingkit today, plan to use it on fixed things on my truck...kind of exciting with new tools! ��
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[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Rust removal: 1) media blasting or aggressive 3M purple disc to good metal than a good etch prime right away. 2) good metal but cannot get it all off I use the POR-15 system, it is an aggressive metal cleaner, followed by a rust converter, followed by the POR-15 "Paint", which appear to be an air activated epoxy. It is hard, but not real sandable so I only used it in areas where absolute flatness was not required (floor board, inside of cowls, frame, etc.). Wear gloves and clothes you can toss, it sticks to everything and does not come off. It is not UV resistant so it needs top coated. 3) bad metal, remove and replace with good panels. Do not forget to paint the inside welds! For areas like that I use a brushable rustoleum oil based rust preventaive primer, white color so I can see where it has been put on. I did all of my under dash area, makes it much easier to see when wiring and installing stuff.

Wow....you got me where I need to be heading....thanks for the info, will try the stuff.

[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by Ferrofil

I saw this aussie guy on youtube that had a tub of half water and half melassis for rust removal, seemed to work excellent for parts and loose objects
I just bought a sandblastingkit today, plan to use it on fixed things on my truck...kind of exciting with new tools! ��
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I seen that same guy using a horse water bowl...lol

[Ferrofil]

Heres a link where they test the stuff, really interesting!

Best rust treatment, Molasses rust removal proven...

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[wilberweb]

Bernman72,
Looks real good,
I just had a local sand blaster take the cab down to the metal.
I had the same problem cab corners new steps.All the front hinge pockets.

-Larry

[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by wilberweb

Bernman72,
Looks real good,
I just had a local sand blaster take the cab down to the metal.
I had the same problem cab corners new steps.All the front hinge pockets.

-Larry

Wow...looks like we are doing the same project..lol...they wanted 500.00 to blast the cab, Sounds expensive for the work.

Your truck looks good man.
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[wilberweb]

Bernman72,
Ya Looks like the same truck for sure.
I had the frame and cab done for 500
That wasn't a bad price. 500 for just the cab seems Hi.

-Larry

[Nev68]

Originally Posted by Ferrofil

I saw this aussie guy on youtube that had a tub of half water and half melassis for rust removal, seemed to work excellent for parts and loose objects
I just bought a sandblastingkit today, plan to use it on fixed things on my truck...kind of exciting with new tools! ��
Posted via Mobile Device

Yep, I have used molasses/water mix, it's good for removing rust from smaller parts that you can drop in, submerge in the mix and leave for a few days.

[Ferrofil]

Must be ecxellent to dip the bottompart of a door, and get it really cleaned out inside and out...
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[Bernman72]

Thanks for all the rust info......ended up using some rust mort. Put in a long weekend on the cab.

[Ferrofil]

Looks really nice! Whats the next step?
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[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by Ferrofil

Looks really nice! Whats the next step?
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I guess keep working around this cab.....some holes to fill in the dash and floor.

[av8tr33337]

I have used the Molasses method. It worked very well for me. Went to a farm supply store and bought 2 gallons of feed grade molasses, (like you would use for deer feed) I would assume the feed grade molasses is cheaper per ounce than the Kind that is for human consumsion at the grocery store. Got a 30 gallon trash can. Filled with 20 gallons of water and add the 2 gallons of molasses. (10 to 1 mixture) Soak rusty parts for a few days. (I recommend a week) Rinse off, repeat if necessary (usually not necessary). Keep in mind that the part will not be shiny, just rust free and prone to flash rust if not immediately dried, scuffed or scotchbrited and primed.

Keep in mind, I'm no chemist but this is a slow chemical reaction. The top of the mixture will get a nasty layer of frothy scum over time. It will smell like sewage. But it will keep working for months. I put about a 1 inch hole in the lid and hung a stock tank heater in mine to keep it from freezing over the winter.

I used it to clean up some rusty old headers and they came out spotless. I also used it on my upper and lower control arms, again spotless. I did nothing more with my headers so they have some light flash rust again but the control arms I shined up immediately with a knotted wire cup on a 4 1/2 inch grinder and they looked brand new. Primed and painted, looked awesome.

I was in a hurry so no pics and I dumped the solution earlier this summer. If I ever do another batch I'll post some pics on my build thread.

[Rude Dude]

Great work on your cab!

[Kim57]

The cab looks real good.
Kim

[Daze57]

nice cab work !

[butchp]

Welcome, I am doing the cab also. Have the frame done waiting on the cab.

[Bernman72]

Originally Posted by butchp

Welcome, I am doing the cab also. Have the frame done waiting on the cab.

Do you have any pics of your truck ? I have all the frame hardware going to start on rhe frame once rhe cab is finished.
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