Crate engine for 78 350 CA truck?

[78trk]

Looks like you are right KQQL IT. The engine you picked would probably be a better fit.

[gramps77]

You guys are over thinking this, and ALL of California does not require as strict of smog laws. (my uncle lives in a county an hour and a half away where they dont even smog, right in the middle of California)

Ive got a 77 that I have smogged at different places in my LOCAL area every year and it has passed with flying colors. Only one year did I have an issue and that was because I installed an open air filter element but had the stock one with "stove pipe" that comes off the headers in the garage. Not one time did they check for any kind of engine stamping or VIN. My engine is either the 260 or 290 crate engine.

OP, go to where you plan to have the truck smogged and ASK THEM what is required. HOPEFULLY they will look in their book and not just their computer and see what the application requires for your truck SPECIFICALLY. For example, my truck is the "Heavy Half Ton" and DOES NOT require a catalytic converter. I've literally got exhaust straight off the collector to a glass pack to the tail pipe. Each time it has thrown off the smogger until he checks the book.

Id get the 290hp crate engine if I was you. The application in Summits online shopping does NOT always match to what is correct. I've returned 3-4 things this year because of it.

If you have any other questions or need pictures, shoot me a PM. Id be more than happy to help.

Like 78trk said, get this one, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet

[charlieatthedisco]

Originally Posted by rfmaster

To original poster (OP)

Pull your engine out.
Have a competent machine shop go through rotating assembly.
Crank may need to be turned down if bearing surfaces are out of spec. Have block checked, bored, and squared if needed. Align hone if mains showing signs.
For 78 source new flex plate and balancer - there is no point of re-using them.
Have rods checked, new rods with performance bolts are about $130. In most cases it is not worth re-working stock rods with new bolts.
For a stock or RV style rebuild use Sealed Power H345 pistons. Cheap and will take reasonable amount of abuse.
If budget permits have machine shop balance rotating assembly - in the end you'll have smoother running engine.
In 4.030 block and 9.025 deck height with 0.038 thick head gasket with 74cc heads the resulting CR will be 8.7:1 which is fine for 87 octane E10 crap we have for gas in CA.
Have heads checked and reworked, valve job - at a minimum new exhaust valves are a must!
Get a stock or RV style camshaft that has EO number - for example SpeedPro CS-1014R or CS-1105R Emissions Legal Cam; CARB E.O. No. D-292-1; Pro-2000 Perf. Cam with matching HT817 lifters.
Use SAE 30W oil with zinc additive during break-in -absolute must for a flat tappet engine.

Make sure that you retain all smog devices - EFE valve is commonly damaged during pull, TVS screwed into intake manifold tend to break apart from years in service. Take plenty of photos, label everything, draw a system diagram how everything is connected before turning a wrench.

Clean everything - make sure that all gasket surfaces are flat and gasket residue has been removed. I keep a note book for each projects keep it organized. There is no other way for smog infested engine bays of the 70 and early 80's.

Most important - take your time to make it right.

//RF

Thanks so much for this good info. I purchased all new smog switches for smog and vacuum lines that run to the egr and everything. New EGR, etc. The next step is to pull the engine like you said and I think I will go that route. Thanks again.

Charlie

[piecesparts]

A GM replacement engine with a general compression ratio that is in accordance with what you already have will suffice. The engine is only a compressor and the goodies on the outside make it different. If your compression ratio and stroke are the same, then the engine will perform relatively the same. The cam in a replacement engine is very mild and the affect to the smog stuff is controllable. I had a 72 4X4 that I drove to LA back in the 80s, I then put it through their smog station, with a plan to sell it. I matched the requirements without issue. It was what was known as a Target Master engine in those days. That is now the GM 350 replacement engine.

[charlieatthedisco]

Originally Posted by gramps77

You guys are over thinking this, and ALL of California does not require as strict of smog laws. (my uncle lives in a county an hour and a half away where they dont even smog, right in the middle of California)

Ive got a 77 that I have smogged at different places in my LOCAL area every year and it has passed with flying colors. Only one year did I have an issue and that was because I installed an open air filter element but had the stock one with "stove pipe" that comes off the headers in the garage. Not one time did they check for any kind of engine stamping or VIN. My engine is either the 260 or 290 crate engine.

OP, go to where you plan to have the truck smogged and ASK THEM what is required. HOPEFULLY they will look in their book and not just their computer and see what the application requires for your truck SPECIFICALLY. For example, my truck is the "Heavy Half Ton" and DOES NOT require a catalytic converter. I've literally got exhaust straight off the collector to a glass pack to the tail pipe. Each time it has thrown off the smogger until he checks the book.

Id get the 290hp crate engine if I was you. The application in Summits online shopping does NOT always match to what is correct. I've returned 3-4 things this year because of it.

If you have any other questions or need pictures, shoot me a PM. Id be more than happy to help.

Like 78trk said, get this one, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet

You are correct here, there is a county that is 30 miles away from me. Does not require smog! I would need to find a buddy who lived there to register it to so I could avoid smog and then the possibilities are endless!

[charlieatthedisco]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

A GM replacement engine with a general compression ratio that is in accordance with what you already have will suffice. The engine is only a compressor and the goodies on the outside make it different. If your compression ratio and stroke are the same, then the engine will perform relatively the same. The cam in a replacement engine is very mild and the affect to the smog stuff is controllable. I had a 72 4X4 that I drove to LA back in the 80s, I then put it through their smog station, with a plan to sell it. I matched the requirements without issue. It was what was known as a Target Master engine in those days. That is now the GM 350 replacement engine.

This might be what you speak of sir?http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...FbF_QgodIHcAng

warranty too. After calling shops for quotes on rebuilds this sounds tempting.

[nheller76]

See no smog in Oregon!
Posted via Mobile Device

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by charlieatthedisco

This might be what you speak of sir?http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...FbF_QgodIHcAng

warranty too. After calling shops for quotes on rebuilds this sounds tempting.

That would be a good start, or look at the 290 HP version. In my area there are several GM dealerships that have these engines sitting in their parts area and you can load it up when you buy it.