How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable

[prostreetC-10]

All of the Dominators for some time have had removable bleeds. I think you have to go back a ways to get where they are fixed. At least 10-15 years.

[68 C-10 KID]

Please think out loud all you want, more info the better!
I'm in outer SE toward Gresham. I work in Hillsboro.

Okay just got back home from Maui Last night and all my parts were at my buddy's waiting for me.
I took a look at all the air bleeds and they are the stock configuration. Only thing is not stock is the jets. I have them at 81 (s88). PV @3.5
The AED idle jet did not have a jet stamp. I took my best guess with a rod sliding through the jet hole. It appears to be a .034 the stock pressed bushing looks like a .042
With that it would be .08 sizes smaller.
The low speed jet is a .053 I wanted to go up 8 sizes (.061)from stock to match what I did on the metering block idle jet. ( I read this on a blog somewhere) All I have is .065-.075's. so I went with the .065 for now till I can get the lower kit.
I will try this out tomorrow to see how we'll it did.

Stumpy
Thank you for the heads up about removing the intermediate air bleed. I will try this out also.

Thanks to everyone.
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[nxtruck]

Hey Mike! I can try to throw some more info in about what you're dealing with. Opinions vary on this, so I'll give you mine, based on my experiences with a couple dominators that I've ran. I had the best luck eliminating the intermediate circuit; basically converting the carb to a 2-circuit. There is a ton of info on the Motorsports Village forum on how this is done, along with some starting points in relation to jetting, ifr relocating and sizing, iab and mab sizing, etc. I would suggest taking a look at this info and then decide if it sounds like something you want to try. It's not hard to do, and, if you're not happy with the results, you can always revert back to the original setup. You can clean up the rich off-idle and part throttle manners of these 1050s and end up with a carb that is just as drivable and throttle-responsive as a good 4150. Now, with that said, my 434 ran better with my reworked hp 1000 than it did with an 8082 hp 1050 at the track. The mph was about the same, but the ets were just a tick better with the smaller carb. Not saying yours won't run better with a tuned-up 1050, though.
BTW, there's also a thread on yellowbullet that I started about a year ago titled " Holley 4150 HP metering " that has a lot of good info on idle feed restrictor location, emulsion, and their affect on start-up, idle, and part throttle drivability. Check that out, also, as that addresses some of the same issues that you're dealing with.
Hope some of this helps you.

[nxtruck]

Forgot to add this to my post above. You're on the right track, as far as dropping the primary jets to clean up some of the part throttle issues, but don't forget to increase the pvcr size accordingly once you clean the rich condition up. A lot of guys will plug both pvs, make some passes to get the jetting right, reinstall the primary pv, drop the primary jetting to the point of a clean part throttle cruise and then make up the difference with the pvcr sizing. The blocks you bought should have removable pvcrs already, making that part easier.
If you have a wideband on your truck, this is a WHOLE lot easier! Also, if you don't already have a set, you may want to invest in a numbered precision drill bit set and a digital caliper. These will help when it comes to measuring orifices and modifying the metering blocks and main body.
Hope this helps.

[68 C-10 KID]

Thanks Chris I will read up on this lead also. My 8896-2 had a horrible response lag and would not idle worth a darn. Or stay running.
I grabbed the old 8896 this is the old one non adjustable bleeds. So I put the AED blocks on adjusted the jets and installed the annular booster on the main body. Took out the 35 nozzles and installed the 31's. with some air screw adjustments it's much better than the 8896-2. Just a little richer on low end than I would like.
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[nxtruck]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

Thanks Chris I will read up on this lead also. My 8896-2 had a horrible response lag and would not idle worth a darn. Or stay running.
I grabbed the old 8896 this is the old one non adjustable bleeds. So I put the AED blocks on adjusted the jets and installed the annular booster on the main body. Took out the 35 nozzles and installed the 31's. with some air screw adjustments it's much better than the 8896-2. Just a little richer on low end than I would like.
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I'm assuming that the AED blocks have adjustable idle feed restrictions. You could try going a little smaller on them to try and help the rich low speed condition you're having. Do you know what size ifrs came in those blocks?
The annular boosters should help in your application, IMO. They normally require less jet than the standard boosters, so the original jetting in that 8896 might be a little on the fat side with them. Glad to hear that you've made improvements with this carb!

[68 C-10 KID]

Yes the AED has 34's I can ramp them down to 32's the AED blocks are fully adjustable block. Much more than I know what to do. LoL.
Rite about 2800-3300 is the rich spot. Good thing is the more heat that is in the block the cleaner it starts to run. We will see this Saturday if rain holds out.
I dropped jet to 77's. that's 9 from stock.
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[nxtruck]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

Yes the AED has 34's I can ramp them down to 32's the AED blocks are fully adjustable block. Much more than I know what to do. LoL.
Rite about 2800-3300 is the rich spot. Good thing is the more heat that is in the block the cleaner it starts to run. We will see this Saturday if rain holds out.
I dropped jet to 77's. that's 9 from stock.
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If the rich condition is occurring around 2800-3300, I'd guess that the intermediate circuit is in play at that point. You're already pretty low on the primary jet with 77s. Are you running a primary power valve? Without the intermediate circuit, I'd say that dropping the primary jet even more and making up for it with the power valve channel restrictions, assuming that you're running a primary power valve, would head you in the right direction. But, if the intermediate circuit is still being used on that carb, then I'm not experienced enough in trying to clean up the tune on a 3-circuit to be able to help you.
If it were mine, I'd eliminate the 3rd circuit before going any further. The info I posted in my first post will shed a lot of light on how this is done.
Good luck this Saturday and keep us posted on how it goes!