Project "HOT WRECK" 62 Short box DUALLY

[HOT WRECKS]

This weeks progress is not that exciting picture wise, but at least it was progress.



Got the cab off my hoist


This tank with its 160'' WB doesn't quite fit on my hoist. Had to stack 2X8s in front and make a ramp to drive on to them. front of truck is right up against bolt bin, and door just closes. very tight fit I have to crawl over deck to get to the other side


I have removed all the rusty nuts and bolts holding the deck on and have replaced them with new 3/8 bolts finger tight. had to do some cutting at bumper where it was welded to frame. tail lights are loose and duct taped on, and a gas can is in the cab plumbed to fuel pump.
I'm going to drive it to the metal scrap yard and have them remove it with their big magnet. I'm hoping to get 60 HOT WRECK dollars from it.

[HOT WRECKS]

Bye-Bye Welding deck!



received $90.90 HOT WRECK dollars

[erock805]

oohh did you get a pic of that big thing in the air? that's amazing to me. keep rollin

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by erock805

oohh did you get a pic of that big thing in the air? that's amazing to me. keep rollin

That was the plan but I managed to turn off my camera mid action instead snapping the picture LOL!

[HOT WRECKS]

Had to work today until 2:00PM but got started stripping the 1 ton as soon as I got home. It looks like this as of 9:30 tonight.



I have to remove 45'' of length. I'm Not just going to cut out a 45'' suction of frame and weld it back. I'm going to move the spring hangers up 45'' into the nice clean section of frame and build fresh from there back. recycling as much frame as I can



So as of last night I decided that I am going to use the 1980 cab floor and the lower portion of the fire wall. This way I will not have to make new cab mounts on the frame. And since the floor and cab mounts are in very poor condition on my 62 cab this will take care of me having to repair them. Other benefits are all the clutch linkage and peddles are where they need to be. As are Steering column, hydra boost brakes, and E-brake pedal assembly...... But the best part is I'm going to channel HOT WRECKS body 2-3''


Need longer hoist.....or better yet a shorter truck!

[HOT WRECKS]

Ok lets get up dated!


Everything removed from 1980 cab. Floor, fire wall, pedal/column assembly &
e-brake pedal are all that remain.



I spent a few hours getting my hoist absolutely level front to back, and side to side. Laying out and squaring up 115'' WB on hoist deck. you can just see the markings for the centre line of the rear wheels just ahead of the MSD sticker

Transferred the centre line of the rear spring hanger bolt to the top of the frame. Measure forward 44'' to locate new hanger centre line.

[HOT WRECKS]

Time to start the kick up in the frame for the rear diff flip.
I have shortened two 73-87 truck frames before but never lowered them to the extreme that is one is going to be. So where to start?? After a few well spent hours of locating the new diff centre line for 115'' WB and some more figuring of where the axle is going to sit after the flip and moving up the spring hangers 2'' I knew that the bottom of the frame over the axle was going to have to be 2 1/2'' higher than the top of the straight frame rails after the cab. And I want a 8'' of frame length over the axle. 4'' on either side of the axle. My frame angles at the kick up will be 45 degree angle.
the frame width is 7 1/2'' tall after the cab and 4 3/4'' tall at the rear bumper
So starting with this info here's how I made my templates. starting with some card stock I cut one strip at 7 1/2'' wide (front frame) one strip at 4 3/4'' wide (rear frame) and one strip at 6 3/4 this strip represents the piece of frame just over the rear axle. 4 3/4'' for the frame and 2 1/2'' for the distance between the original frame and where my new frame bottom will start. from there I knew that my length of frame just over the axle is going to be 8'' so at 2 1/2'' up on my 6 3/4 piece I measured out 8'' line and at the end of the line on each side I drew a 22.5 degree angle to the top that gave me my starting piece. 8'' short to short of a 22.5 degree angle 4 3/4 tall.

now with this template done and in position I took the 7 1/2 strip and cut a 22.5 degree angle long at the top and lined it up with the 22.5 degree angle on the first template, then copied that 45 degree angle onto the frame. Intersecting the two lines (they have circles around them in pic) at the top and bottom of the frame gave me my 22.5 degree angle that the frame will be cut at. and then transferring that measurement back onto my template gives me 10'' long to short 22.5 degree angle template. I then used a straight edge to taper the 7 1/2 side at the bottom up to the bottom of the 22.5 angle on the 4 3/4 template.


the rear most template is the easiest. it will be 10'' long to short of a 22.5 degree angle just like the front one but with no taper. just 4 3/4'' the entire length.


Its a little wordy but I hope it makes some sense.

[Bomp]

Definitely have my attention. Are you going to fish plate the inside or box the frame for added strength?

Like all the templets and measurements.

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Definitely have my attention. Are you going to fish plate the inside or box the frame for added strength?

Like all the templets and measurements.

well Mr Bomp if I have your attention then I must be on the right track. I've been following your build and your fab skills are Dynamite!

As for strengthening the frame I will be fish plating it. Being that it is 1/4 inch thick by 7 1/2 tall I bet I could get away with a good double sided weld. Since it will never haul any real weight any more.
But I want to tow my 24'' holiday trailer with it. Its better to be safe than sorry.

[HOT WRECKS]

The drivers side frame rail cut off at a 22.5 degree angle and bolted onto the passenger side, aligning all the factory holes in frame. Now the angles on both sides is exactly the same, even if the angle is off a degree or two.

Now the drivers side frame rail becomes the passenger side frame rail. Aligning up the short sides of both 22.5 degree cuts becomes the
45 degree kick up

Using my template I can transfer the new shape of the first piece of frame for my kick up

The centre triangle will be removed and then I will have my tapered piece of frame from 7 1/2'' to 4 3/4''

[Bomp]

Looking good.

Dig the tag line. ""Anyone can restore It, but it takes a real man to Cut It Up!!""

[HOT WRECKS]

All right. It's been awhile since I've posted any progress. Life got in the way of my HOT WRECK project, but I have slowly and steadily been hammering away at it.


I cut my templates down the centre and laid them on the top and bottom of the frame rail, removing the centre. Turning all my 7 1/2'' frame rail into
4 3/4'' frame rail so that it will match the factory rear most frame rails


here is the centre removed and the two halves placed back together


Here's all the frame bits cut for the D/S kick up. I have done the exact same for the P/S.


Yahoo!! it looks like a frame rail again. All welded back together using a very healthy Bevel on both sides to allow more penetration for a stronger weld. All factory hold have also been filled. Then ground all welds smooth, and sand blasted it


A fishplate has been added at both 22.5 degree vertical joints for added strength. Since this picture was taken the welds on the fishplate have been die grinded and sandblasted for aesthetics.

[NASTY-LSX]

really cool project. Cant wait to see the end result!!!

[Bomp]

That is some seriously nice finish work there.

[C@rnut001]

Wow, this is going to be one amazing truck! Keep up the awesome work on your build and thanks for all of the updates. I think it is great that your son is helping you and learning from you. I am definitely going to be following along as you complete this one!

[Narxoleptic Customs]

Thumbs up!! Keep the pix and progress coming.

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by NASTY-LSX

really cool project. Cant wait to see the end result!!!

Thx. I can't wait to see the end result myself!

Originally Posted by Bomp

That is some seriously nice finish work there.

Thx you just put a great big pride smile on my face

Originally Posted by C@rnut001

Wow, this is going to be one amazing truck! Keep up the awesome work on your build and thanks for all of the updates. I think it is great that your son is helping you and learning from you. I am definitely going to be following along as you complete this one!

Thx. My son is loving this project. He will talk about it endlessly to who ever will listen

Originally Posted by Narxoleptic Customs

Thumbs up!! Keep the pix and progress coming.

Thx This is my first forum build and I'll tell you it is really satisfying sharing my passion with others who appreciate it also. It really keeps me motivated to trudge forward and show everyone the prior weeks of work

[HOT WRECKS]

Here's some pictures of the start of the build of the rear section of my frame build before I got side tracked rebuilding my rear diff.


disassembly of rear most section of frame rails



test fitting stock rear frame rail to custom built section



same as last picture different angle


trimming the back side of the frame rail along the line shown to keep the frame rails the same width then entire length of the frame.


welding up all the factory holes

[HOT WRECKS]

upper spring is the stock one ton, 10 leafs plus the heavy over load spring at the bottom. and at the top is the over load spring helper pack.
the lower spring pack is what I will be using. five leafs, Plus I will be adding the heavy over load spring to the bottom of the pack


At the sand blasting yard. blasting the disassembled 14 bolt diff
(dam it's heavy) plus all the leaf springs, brackets, and rims.
spent $300 sand blasting WOW!! it's not cheep


Primed and painted all parts gloss white.(frame and all suspension parts will be gloss white) Spent another $300 on Trem-Clad rust paint, Canadian version of Rust-Oleum.
Even building a rat rod is not cheap!!

[Dinos63]

buddy awsum start!! and it looks like you have some great help and great skills

[Bomp]

Its not cheap but you sure make it look good.

[HOT WRECKS]

Ok lets get project ''HOT WRECK'' up to date.

rear frame rails leveled, squared, and welded. but still far from complete.

Here's the D/S front spring hanger.Hard to believe this repair was on a welding truck

I wanted to raise the spring hangers up 2'' so I laid out two lines 2'' apart on my work surface and lined up the top of the hangers the first line and marked the second line onto my hangers and made my cuts there.



Squared up the frame to the hoist on which I have already have the 115'' WB marked out. marked the frame for the axle centre line, then measured from there forward and back for the attaching points of the spring hangers (I recorded these measurements before I took disassemble the original hangers)

[Mad Rods]

Subscribed! Gonna be a cool build!!!

[Mr Pops]

K I'm watchin

[flashed]

Im in on this one .