1986 Chevy C10 SWB Step Side

[aotte1]

Some recent picks from the recycle yard. They are all off a 1987, C10 with SBC.

[aotte1]

Closer view of alu coolant inlet for intake.

[aotte1]

Other side of inlet.

[aotte1]

Engine lift hooks, front one and also attaches to alternator bracket.

[aotte1]

Rear engine hook attached at back of intake.

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Bolt assembly

save those spacers/offset washers to reuse,and buy 1/2 inch carriage bolts {got mine at lowes} dont buy the bolts from LMC their cheesey.-jeff

[walkerb]

Originally Posted by jpnh

save those spacers/offset washers to reuse,and buy 1/2 inch carriage bolts {got mine at lowes} dont buy the bolts from LMC their cheesey.-jeff

Hahaha i have a set of those bolts in my garage! Very scary

[aotte1]

Jeff, thanks for the advice. Today I got five more bed mounting bolts out for a total of 6 of the 8. I got a larger drill, 5/8 for an inventory of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8. I now drill each starting with the smallest about 3/8 to 1/2 below the bottom of the head. The new 5/8 drill makes removing the head easier. But still use the cut off wheel to quarter cut the head as close to the washer below as possible. Then chisel and 2.5 lb hammer to remove heads, followed by punch and hammer to drive out remaining bolt. I had to hammer pretty hard to drive the remaining bolt out.

Findings today are the bed mounting bolts were yellow cad plated. The washer under the bed mounting bolt was painted red on all of the surface. Therefor the washer were in place when bed was painted?? ( NOTE:This is Canadian built truck)

Les

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by walkerb

Hahaha i have a set of those bolts in my garage! Very scary

yeah it sux. how they get ya is they put m in with the bed hardware kit so you need most of the bolts no sense returning them i bet theres a few people with these kickin around the thinner bolt/offset washer is way smaller in diameter/no spacers/not long enough clearly out of touch with reality or a good scam.ill end up using them on something.

[jpnh]

when i did my bed after i unbolted it i flipped it over onto a couple broken office chairs with plywood and some other wood i had kickin around bolted/screwed to them i usually inherit the broken computer chairs when the backs break off made a nice cradle i could roll it around easy i flipped it over to get at all the nuts on the bottom that hold the wood in the wood was still in mine when i got it after tryn to get them off a couple came loose then i broke a few off then i sawzalled a couple and found it was easier to just break m all off i used a breaker bar/socket with no wood in there you might be able to do something different if their just spinning on ya then i stripped all the paint and rust off the bottom with a wire brush wheel on a drill before flipping it back over to do the top had to do this a few times when u get the wood kit the holes arent drilled in it so your gonna have to pre fit the wood and figure exactally where you need the holes cant be off at all no room for error gotta make sure the wood is far enough under the sides that are spotwelded to the bed you dont have to take them off but you have to make sure the wood lines up with the hold downs in the grooves if your not far enough under the side the or not square it makes a difference the hold downs wont line up in the grooves gotta get all the wood in there straight with the hold down strips in the grooves and the gap between the wood and the rear panel at the end of the bed consistant then you use a sharpie to mark all the holes to be drilled then take them back out to drill em need to do all the fitting/ drilling before ya finish the wood.if i can think of anything else ill try n let ya know.

[aotte1]

Jeff, thanks for your detailed description of how you did it. It will be very useful in planning what I need to do. This is turning into a bigger project then I thought it would be with all the bolts and more bolts!

Today got the last of the bed mounting bolts removed, that one bolt is really long. Going to remove the gas tank tomorrow for safety reasons since I will be replacing my cab corners also. Got the four bolts at the rear of the tank loose tonight. Tomorrow plan to drain the gas out and finish removing it since I can have my side entrance door open to help remove any fumes. My garage is spray foam insulated, totally air tight so have to be extra carefully about explosive fumes! It will be 45 degrees tomorrow then back down to really cold again, so my chance to have the door open.
Will probably have a few questions if that is ok. Your bed is looking really nice, epoxy primer. So you fit your new bed wood before painting, good idea with all the turning of bed needed, did not think of that. What wood are you using, northern white pine? Great wood if you can get it. I special ordered it for the trim on my garage, if cared for last forever.

Thanks,
Les

[aotte1]

A couple more pics of the bed mounting bolts I removed.

[aotte1]

Close up of parts

[aotte1]

Bolt heads drilled out

[aotte1]

Bed picture

[jpnh]

yeah i ordered my wood from lmc you get what they send you theres no description on the wood. the pine is definantly the cheapest but i noticed if you go to the bedwood.com website you can order some pretty exotic woods some are expensive. i used some honey oil to seal it at first then i decided i didnt like it.{too lite} so i went over it with a minwax dark walnut you can control how dark u make it im glad it didnt have any adverse affects goin over the honey oil then i cleared them i like how it came out i was thinkin ,the bolts on the side angle hold downs that are welded to the bed i had to drill out the heads of the carriage bolts from the top they were fuzed in there not sure how yours are probably could take off the fenders/steps to liten things up too. remember where the cross braces go.are you gonna take the bed all the way down or are you gonna scuff it and shoot it? man i used every drill bit i had and had to get more and used them up/broke them mine came apart hard. the way the paint was on mine i decided to take it all off i wire wheeled the paint off the whole bed took a few weeks of on and off grinding./metal slivers would have been much easier to have it media blasted. but im too cheap for that. i used 3m paintable under coating in and on all the braces/the underside of the bed/the bedsides {under the fenders}before i sprayed it with epoxy primer.i like it its expensive but goes on nice/covers good. its alot of work. after getting everything to fit i still have to take it back apart for paint now.

[aotte1]

Jeff,
Not sure yet how exactly how I will paint it. My plan is mainly to sand the original paint hard and see how it looks. I have a few dents to fix, specifically for the inside of the bed, still need to think about that. As you explained it is pretty complicated, with all the bolts??? Just have to see how easy the fender bolts are to remove. Plan is to do all the body work first while it is all together.

Thinking about getting a pressure tank sand blaster, because only need to do a few areas, but what a mess they make, along with all the protective clothing???

Your bed looks really nice! I was thinking of the white pine also because it pretty light. Trying to keep truck as light as possible.
Thanks,
Les

[aotte1]

Gas Tank Removal
Removing gas tank went pretty easy. Having the wood floor out of the bad, along with all the great reports here on how to do it, help a lot. Especial the reference by Keith Seymore. Removed gas from tank per Keith reference article, then pressurized the tank a little and placed engine supply line from fuel pump into gas container. This additional step removed about 1/2 to 1 gallon more of gas for me. Next I followed the referenced article for removal.
Below is picture of tank removed.

[aotte1]

A couple more gas tank pictures.

[aotte1]

The three hoses you need to disconnect.

[aotte1]

1987- 1988 Master Parts and Accessory Book and Illustration

Received today a "1987-88 master parts and accessory book, including illustrations". First looked up was to see if any SBCs came with out air injection pumps, e.g. did GM make water pump pulleys wo/ the smog V-belt. This book shows all 10s, 20s, and 30s had air injection pumps. In 1986 to 1988, which is the system I am using. Maybe I will just cut the air injection pump V-belt part of water pump pulley off, since it is on the outside.

Also starting to build bed cradle for removal, installing new wood floor, along with painting.

[aotte1]

Parts and Accessory catalog cover sheet.

[aotte1]

It is about 4 inches thick.

One other thing per this catalog, they did make LY6, new process 4 speed OD trans in 1988 also.

[aotte1]

Engine Update - 4.3 Unhappy!


Have bad news on my 4.3, 1986, final got it running ok so that I could drive it. Once I could here it, noticed it had a loose crank. Ok will rebuild it, pulled engine. Found it was not original engine , had reman engine. Still thinking I will rebuild. Took reman engine apart and found cheap rebuild, bored 60 over, crank turned to max, and heads had been over heated. So not rebuildable, along with no good available core that I could find/ know its condition. Saved all key parts for now.
I have gone over to the other side and putting in a 350. Found a great condition roller block for $ 300. Every thing is really clean. Rebuilding it now.
Going to dyno for break-in and test timing /quick fuel hot rod series carb setting.
Les

[aotte1]

Engine block