Cheap welder recommendations for brackets and exhaust?

[RManson]

Flux core is a terrible idea if you want to do it right. Check out Miller's 140-Auto Set machine for an entry level MIG. About as easy as it gets. I use the 180 all the time as it can weld thicker material and is a true 240V machine. TIG is a totally different animal and is not for the newby welder unless you're willing to sit down and practice. That said, once you learn it, you won't want to go back...

[sean1969c10]

I bought a Campbell Hausefeld (sp?) from Northern Tool almost 20yrs ago. It was about $500.00 at the time and I really can't complain about it but, now that I am much more experienced I can tell you that one think to think about when buying a welder is being able to get replacement parts or consumables, preferably from a local source. Good luck, Mig welding is pretty easy and rewarding when you lay down a good bead.

[72bowtiestepper]

I have a 110 volt older Miller mig setup that I use with argon/co2 mix gas...works great for any type of sheetmetal or fab work up to 3/16" (works great for exhaust too ). I agree with others...stay away from the cheap China welders and flux core too...they are pretty much useless !
My little Miller is one of the most used tools in my home shop !

[Bigdav160]

I don't have not much to add except I own several welders. Although I'm not my professional welder.

Each method of electrical welding has it's pro's and con's. I didn't find TIG particularity hard to learn but it is most suited for bench work. The metal needs to be extremely clean. However, if you want to weld more than just mild steel it's the best choice.

MIG is the easiest to learn because it's close to hot glueing on metal. The work needs to be clean but is more forgiving. I have an Eastwood MIG 175 and it works fine. It was under $500.

[Lattimer]

I bought a 110V Lincoln MIG at Home Depot over 10 years ago. Its flux core only, which doesn't do as nice of a job as using shielding gas. However, I didn't want the expense and hassle of bottles, and I wanted to be able to use it outdoors reliably. I went 110V because I wanted to be able to use it anywhere, and at that time I had zero electrical skills and no 220V outlets in my garage.

I've built a bunch of gym equipment for myself and others, done several exhausts, multiple misc repairs, modified my trailer, etc. Did all the floorboards and rockers in my truck. Built custom linkages, shifters, etc.

I was able to teach myself to use it over time with some books and video's. These days there is a ton of good stuff on YouTube for learning.

The modern equivalent to mine is this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...ct_description

Personally, I wouldn't buy a small welder like that used. The bigger MIGs and the Stick machines can last forever, so as long as I could see it work I'd be ok with one of those used, but the little ones are not all that robust. Mine has lasted well but probably gets used 20-40 hours per year.

The small 110V MIGs can weld 1/4" pretty easily. Thicker stuff you need to v-groove the joint and do multiple passes, but in reality you can weld any thickness with a small welder, it just takes longer.

[Rochlow]

I will second the Hobart 140. For years I tried to learn on an old Linde machine from the early 80s (POS). About a year ago tractor supply had zero percent financing for 6 months, so I bought the welder, a cylinder of gas and a plasma cutter.

I did all the fab work in my cab with it and learned a lot in the process. When I bought the welder there was a tool that came with it to measure the thickness of the material your working with and inside the welder is a chart to put you in the range settings for your heat and wire speed.

[rcazwillis]

There is nothing wrong with flux. With practice, it makes a beautiful weld. With that said, I use gas. Hobarts are good, Lincolns are better, Miller is the best. I have a Lincoln 100 and 140. The 140 is 15 years newer and a much better machine. For home use, the Lincoln 125 or 140 are great choices. You can weld just about everything with them. This includes stainless and aluminum with a gas kit. Prices are good and they will last forever.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by GearsFC3S

I've been looking into getting a MIG welder to learn welding myself. I have very projects that will be easier once I learn to weld. Looking around different forums, I've learned a few things.

1.) Apparently there's a big difference in performance from a quality units and the cheapo harbor freight/china welders. To the point were some of the guys thought they were doing something wrong because of the bad results they were getting.

2.) Flux core works okay, but using a gas shield produces a nicer weld. So if you can get one with a regulator or one that can be upgraded to one.

The big three brands seem to be Miller, Hobart and Chicago Electric. I was looking at getting a MIG like the Millermatic 140 or a Hobart Handler 140. Miller's supposed to be the best, but its $900 new. The Hobart seems comparable at half the price.

I'm looking for something used first but, might just bite the bullet and get one new.

Now this is beginning to get interesting. Miller bought out Hobart several years ago so the internals of a Hobart welder are the same as a Miller without all of the frills. I own a Hobart TIGMATE and a Miller Autoset 210 MIG. I have used the Hobart Handler 140 and with the exception of the feed setup, it works as well as my Autoset 210 when I run it on 110 volts.

The 210 is sometimes on sale...check Cyberweld. They also sell Hobarts and every once in a while the shipping is free!

The Hobart 140 machine is, in my opinion a very good buy. Stay away from Chicago Electric...made in China.

[GearsFC3S]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Now this is beginning to get interesting. Miller bought out Hobart several years ago so the internals of a Hobart welder are the same as a Miller without all of the frills. I own a Hobart TIGMATE and a Miller Autoset 210 MIG. I have used the Hobart Handler 140 and with the exception of the feed setup, it works as well as my Autoset 210 when I run it on 110 volts.

The 210 is sometimes on sale...check Cyberweld. They also sell Hobarts and every once in a while the shipping is free!

The Hobart 140 machine is, in my opinion a very good buy. Stay away from Chicago Electric...made in China.

Thanks. Now I'm leaning toward the Hobart 140 even more. And yeah, I meant to say Lincoln Electric. The names are so close I just switched them (which is exactly what CE was trying for when they chose that name )

[mrein3]

There is a lot of information in this thread. Not all of it is good.
MIG stands for metal inert gas. You need to shield the weld puddle from the atmosphere or it will oxidize which leads to pourous welds which leads to a bad weld.

You can NOT use the MIG process outside as the wind will blow your gas away, leave your puddle exposed, and screw up your work.

Flux core is just what it sounds like. There is flux in the inside of the consumable wire. This flux vaporizes in the weld puddle and creates the shield you need to protect the puddle. Similar to the flux on the outside of the rods you use with a stick welder.

For the best all around machine I would get one that runs on 220 from Lincoln or Miller. I would make sure it comes ready to use gas. When you are inside in your shop, use the solid wire and gas. Outside switch the machine over to use flux core. Note that you can't just change the wire. You have to change the wire and swap the leads inside the machine. The Miller I own is quite clear on which post "+" or "-" you want your stinger and your grounding clamp depending on which process you want to use.

I keep a big spool of thin, solid wire for body work (I think it is 0.023"), a small spool of larger solid (I think that one is 0.030" or 0.035") for inside, thicker work, and a small spool of large, flux core for outside. Most of the outside work I do is on rusty boat docks and boat lifts.

The best thing I did for this hobby is take a community ed class. It was only about $100 and I learned a lot. It was so informative I took it a second time. I highly recommend a class like this if one is available in your area. If anything you can get some time on somebody else's machine and pointers from somebody who probably does this for a living - the welding instructor.

[Drewski23]

Originally Posted by mrein3

There is a lot of information in this thread. Not all of it is good.
MIG stands for metal inert gas. You need to shield the weld puddle from the atmosphere or it will oxidize which leads to pourous welds which leads to a bad weld.

You can NOT use the MIG process outside as the wind will blow your gas away, leave your puddle exposed, and screw up your work.

Flux core is just what it sounds like. There is flux in the inside of the consumable wire. This flux vaporizes in the weld puddle and creates the shield you need to protect the puddle. Similar to the flux on the outside of the rods you use with a stick welder.

For the best all around machine I would get one that runs on 220 from Lincoln or Miller. I would make sure it comes ready to use gas. When you are inside in your shop, use the solid wire and gas. Outside switch the machine over to use flux core. Note that you can't just change the wire. You have to change the wire and swap the leads inside the machine. The Miller I own is quite clear on which post "+" or "-" you want your stinger and your grounding clamp depending on which process you want to use.

I keep a big spool of thin, solid wire for body work (I think it is 0.023"), a small spool of larger solid (I think that one is 0.030" or 0.035") for inside, thicker work, and a small spool of large, flux core for outside. Most of the outside work I do is on rusty boat docks and boat lifts.

The best thing I did for this hobby is take a community ed class. It was only about $100 and I learned a lot. It was so informative I took it a second time. I highly recommend a class like this if one is available in your area. If anything you can get some time on somebody else's machine and pointers from somebody who probably does this for a living - the welding instructor.

thanks for the techincal information

[cg285]

i agree with a class or buy a book on the subject and read it.
i believe anyone should start by learning to gas weld and control the puddle.
i've see a lot of first timers pick up a mig and think they are a pro but the welds are terrible.

as far as the op (cheap welder for brkts...) the 120v flux core machine would work well for that
i have several machines but i use a flux core for quick small jobs, portable stuff....

[Eddie H.]

I bought one of these Thermal Arc welders a few years ago for under $1000 and it works great. It will allow you to do MIG TIG and stick welding, all with one machine.
http://victortechnologies.com/thermalarc/

[bbcmudtruck]

Just a heads up, the Hobart 140 is on sale this friday at sears for $469!

[BigDan3131]

The only thing I haven't seen anyone write about is the wiring in your garage/shop. Is all the wiring up to snuff? If you go with the 110V welder what size breaker is on the one you would be using? If you go 220/230V have it wired by a pro some you don't set the house on fire. If you plan to connect an extension cord to it it need to be heavy gauge wire at a minimum of 12 gauge but 10 or heavier would be preferred if using it further than 10' from your power source.

[killerpanel]

I have an old Hobart 135. Use it for Body work, exhaust, and fitting roll bars. I said fitting them. tack welding until it goes to my friends shop. easy to use, 110v, I have a Argon tank.