95 2 door Yukon original 5 speed

[justcuz]

We just got 17 mpg in our 2000 Suburban. Downhill run from Gardnerville to Rancho Cucamonga. That's with a bad after cat O2 sensor on the drivers side!
Of course it's an LS engine with a different injection system, but not bad for a 251,000 mile engine.
Just for a trial I would re-install the spacer above the throttle body and see if the velocity stack feature of that would increase airflow and atomization.

[jbclassix]

I have that spacer in there since it is the only way I could connect the crankcase breather. I think a lot of my fuel mileage loss is due to the expensive cheap gas I've had to run, and the actual functioning CAT as opposed to the hollowed out one. Its nice to have this range as opposed to the Sequoia

[justcuz]

Why is it that Toyota's get such crummy mileage? Even the FJ's fuel injected 6 cylinders suck gas like a fiend.

[jbclassix]

PARTY!!!!!

[justcuz]

What are you celebrating?

[jbclassix]

Daughters first birthday... only one cooler was for drinks. The rest of the ice was actually for the port-a-cool to keep the patio patrons cool. So we were mostly icing down juice boxes and mini water bottles. But it is a cool picture, none the less.

[justcuz]

Cool in every sense of the word! I would imagine misters in your neck of the woods would be nice for summer time.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by justcuz

Cool in every sense of the word! I would imagine misters in your neck of the woods would be nice for summer time.

Speaking of summer time, I now need to upgrade my cooling system in the Yukon! In-town driving with the AC on has her running around 195+ with a 180 t-stat. Yeah, yeah, 195 is where it is supposed to run, but I get better mileage at 180 and that's why I was happy keeping it there. This is probably due to the HD fan clutch running harder at 195. What really solidified the decision was having to cut the AC off going over the Tehachapi pass last trip. That's just unacceptable.

Unfortunately, there is not one radiator shop here in the last stop for gas on the highway to hell! So I need to take my radiator and new core to some other town to get the tanks changed out.

[jbclassix]

little update on what's been going on.

The Yukon is in the garage for a little service and upgrade time. No major upgrades, but probably going to go through some major service and repairs

First upgrade is creature comfort. When we moved from Colorado I listened to the speaker on my cell phone the whole trip. This is because I had replaced a burnt out aftermarket head unit with a 2002 CD player that would go mute randomly and then randomly come back on at full volume. So I have been piecing together enough parts to build a factory tape player like it originally had: but with a twist. the internet has a few how to's on hooking up an aux jack, so I put my own twist on it for version 1.0. the 1/8" jack is in the mail, so more to come on that. I am going to tie into the factory auxiliary jack for a cleaner look rather than the jack being on the face plate or (even though it will be unseen) an extra harness out the back.



I added a Vortec oil fill neck also. Less messy



I have a few coolant leaks to take care of. One is my heater valve, which is something that I guess is unique to the 2 door SUV's. I'd like to retain it, but this is the second one that has started leaking. And then the notorious heater hose quick disconnect...

[justcuz]

I just bought a standard hose fitting at the auto parts store, cut the fitting off the end of the hose with a plastic pipe cutter, installed a hose clamp and viola...no more leaks! I was real careful removing the factory fitting from the intake. I used a deep socket and a 1/2 drive breaker bar and bumped it to break it loose, then just used a extension and ratchet to remove it.
I don't have that valve on my 92 but I do have a problem with my heater cores getting pinhole leaks in the tubes. I changed some grounds and now have a problem with the pinhole leaks and the HVAC fan runs with the key shut off.
I'll have to return to the factory grounds. I installed a Dodge ground strap that goes from the firewall to the engine and firewall to the chassis. Factory is two separate straps that go from the firewall to the engine and engine to the chassis.
I think I must be getting some voltage feedback through the Dodge V shaped ground strap. If I disconnect the battery, the fan relay shuts off, until I hook it back up again. Sometimes it will run and sometimes not, I still think it is more of a ground issue than a relay problem.

Also my sons Tahoe started eating radiators when he installed a sub and stereo system, he had to put a Ford style clip ground on the radiator to the chassis to eliminate the problem.

[jbclassix]

Yeah, I've already changed that stupid fitting once before on this, once on the 91 Suburban, and just ditched it on the diesel. I am coming up with something hair brained to do away with this one...

I think my problem is the heater fitting is an Advance Auto replacement. I have had no luck with parts store junk. I also converted to the wrong coolant back in Colorado, but it is Fleetcharge, not generic.

I'll be going through the cooling system here in a few weeks. I need this to stay up and running until I finish a few things on the diesel to make it road worthy.

Remember that picture of the radio guts above? Well, I was having a frustrating time troubleshooting no left channel and bad cross talk. After several hours of troubleshooting, I discovered the cable I was using for the remote auxiliary port was shorted! Not having a local source for stuff like that, I chose the next best thing and eliminated the cable.

I didn't take any pictures of the splicing because by the time I redid the wiring I was too frustrated with how much time I had already spent.

I used this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUX2Iq4OfQk

obviously in the video he is using a CD player, and mine is a tape deck (oh yeah, rockin the cassette player), but the separate FM modulator board is the key component. My radio is GM part number 14194445. I originally didn't want the jack on the face of the radio, so I compromised. I used some 2-part plastic weld epoxy and glued door closed from the back, then I marked and drilled for the jack.





This is something that helps understand the video. FMM is the FM Modulator board side of the harness, and AMP is the Amplifier board side of the harness.



When he talks about separating wires for a remote jack, he means that you have to run one shielded cable for the line in from the modulator and another cable for the line out to the amp, plus a ground wire.

Even though I complain about parts store junk, sometimes it is a necessary evil... Like when your door is falling off and you need dorman hinge pins because shipping will take too long.



So all in all, it has been a productive week in the garage. I originally pulled the Yukon in to troubleshoot a 36 code I had in the ABS system. I followed the troubleshooting steps in the FSM and didn't find any faults with any of the components or wiring. I even went one step further and ohm tested the harness. If it comes back this weekend, I guess I will punt. I can swap parts with the diesel for troubleshooting purposes (that's the beauty of having 2 '95's I guess). It's a frustrating code because it kills cruise control.

[jbclassix]

So the auxiliary input is awesome especially now that there is less wind noise from the door seal. Idid have to do some maintenance on the t case this week. I had a u-joint go out and it took out the tail shaft bushing. I ended up having to order Maaco part number 331066 bushing and I got the 4333N seal at the local parts hacker. For anyone trying to seal up a NP241and having no luck finding the bushing, this one fits.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Speaking of summer time, I now need to upgrade my cooling system in the Yukon! In-town driving with the AC on has her running around 195+ with a 180 t-stat. Yeah, yeah, 195 is where it is supposed to run, but I get better mileage at 180 and that's why I was happy keeping it there. This is probably due to the HD fan clutch running harder at 195. What really solidified the decision was having to cut the AC off going over the Tehachapi pass last trip. That's just unacceptable.

Unfortunately, there is not one radiator shop here in the last stop for gas on the highway to hell! So I need to take my radiator and new core to some other town to get the tanks changed out.

Did I really say this a year ago? Wow. Well, I decided to ditch the rebuilt radiator path and just source a used one. All in all it went in easy. There are a few differences year to year that I noted and had to deal with such as:

lower fan shroud bolt clearance
lower rubber seat location
lower oil cooler line interference
stiff old rubber seats not conforming like they should

Today I finally swapped radiators...



And this is what my garage looked like at one point today...



We'll finally see what kind of a difference this makes come Monday

[justcuz]

Went through Ridgecrest again last week and thought of you and all your projects.
What's up?

[jbclassix]

Oh man, where do I start...

I took on more projects...

Got some others done...

Moved back to Colorado...

Quit sleeping pretty much...

With 4 kids it was time to get the suburban up and running, so, why not buy another non-running 96 with a 454 and convert it to diesel. So here it is, we call it the suburple. Ill start a thread on it if I have enough pictures.



I drove the Yukon back to Colorado, and I averaged 18.5 the whole trip, which was better than the Sequoia did.


Sorry I wasn't around to catch up with. Wish I could have. I will update all the threads as I get around to it.

[justcuz]

Wow, yea please do. What diesel did you put in the 96?
What made you decide to go back to Colorado?
Did you finish the two crew cab projects?
What did you keep besides the Yukon the Suburbans and the Sequoia?
The Sequioa needs an LS swap, then it will get decent mileage!