Finally got me a '66

[64 wedge]

I just got me a 66 also. It is a one owner farm truck with only twenty thousand miles on it but was definitely used on the farm, mud and straw in alot of places. It sat inside the barn since the mid 80's so it was somewhat protected. It has a 283 with the 3 on the tree. So far I have replaced the brake system and got the engine running.

[firemanjimtfd]

64 wedge . Welcome to the forum . Its nice to find those original trucks that has been in barns and not had 15 owners . Find you some original small hubcaps and enjoy driving.

[speedy_steve]

Originally Posted by 64 wedge

I just got me a 66 also. It is a one owner farm truck with only twenty thousand miles on it but was definitely used on the farm, mud and straw in alot of places. It sat inside the barn since the mid 80's so it was somewhat protected. It has a 283 with the 3 on the tree. So far I have replaced the brake system and got the engine running.

Nice truck!! I'm digging those bumper guards...been debating putting some of those on mine.

[64 wedge]

Originally Posted by speedy_steve

Nice truck!! I'm digging those bumper guards...been debating putting some of those on mine.

I did some cleaning on them and they cleaned up good, they do give it a neat look. The spotlight is a factory gm light that still works good.

[speedy_steve]

Well today was exciting. Pulled the exhaust and intake manifold off. It looked like an oil leak behind the manifold, but after closer examination...the gasket appears to be leaking (FINGERS CROSSED).
In the third picture you can see where the exhaust is leaking around the gasket. Could probably explain the raw gas smell when running.

[speedy_steve]

Well, the project continues and today was a good day. Managed to pull the head bolts yesterday but couldn't figure out why in the world it wouldn't budge. After a few beers, went "bolt hunting" and sure enough, found the culprit.

Today, I was able to remove the rods and the head completely. I wasn't sure what to expect once the head was removed and sure enough...tons of carbon buildup on the piston crown as well as all the valves. Cylinder 5 looks rougher than the others, so now I have to figure out how to remove them without pulling the engine or at the very least, how to clean the carbon deposits. I've been reading and it's possible; however, it appears to be no easy task.

[TJ's Chevy]

Looks like you have a 230 6 cylinder. Looks like it could use some marvel mystery oil! lol!

[blazer-k5]

Ive heard old timers speak of shaking a spoon full of water above the carb with it running. Letting the drops fall it knocks the carbon off the pistons. I've never tried it. Sounds like it works. Both of trucks are nice. That farm fresh sucker is clean.

[speedy_steve]

Today's lunch time consisted of pulling all the valves, springs, and associated hardware...and trying to identify the engine id. There are a dozen different numbers on this thing and twice that many resources on the interwebnetthingy. Now the real "fun" begins.


Driver side:


Passenger side:




Cylinder head:

[speedy_steve]

Ordered a buttload of parts yesterday and now I'm just waiting on them to come in. So...today was paint day.

[speedy_steve]

Removed the heater core today, sanded the rust out of the housing, ordered a new heater core and motor. But the shining moment of happiness was...all the parts I ordered from Classicparts.com came in today.

Time to have some real fun!

[speedy_steve]

Well, the build is going good...found out something interesting yesterday and posted it in another thread, but I'll post it here too.

So when I initially bought the truck and drove it home, I noticed that at slow speeds it was fine, but if I gave it gas and tried to hit highway speeds, it would sputter like it wasn't firing on all cylinders or running out of gas. After researching it here's some of the isolation points I found:
Spark plugs were needing replacement
Lots of carbon buildup on exhaust valves, some on intake valves
Distributor had a broken plug point so contact wasn't being made all the way around
Valve seal on #3 was torn and leaking
Fuel filters had tons of sludge
Fuel lines had sludge
And several other things along the way, all of which needed to be fixed and I figured could be a source of the sputter...until yesterday.

Yesterday I got my parts in from Classicparts and in the order was a new mechanical fuel pump. When I went to put it on with the exact same orientation as the one I removed, I noticed that the mounting layout didn't match. The bolt holes lined up, but it didn't look right. So, I flipped the pump 180 and viola...a perfect match and fit. Now I'm thinking that the sputter was a result of the pump starving at higher psi due to nothing being in the reservoir for the output line.

[speedy_steve]

Previous install:




Current install:


So I guess it is possible to invert a mechanical fuel pump. Anyone else have a situation like this?

[speedy_steve]

Got the water pump installed today.

[TJ's Chevy]

Looks good!

[speedy_steve]

Well, apparently the Public Storage unit isn't too keen on the idea of one working on their vehicle while in storage. Got me a little cease and desist letter Saturday morning. So, it's time to figure out a plan "B" to get this little lady back on the road.

The plus side is this, all of the parts I've ordered have come in so it may only take a day or two of full time wrenching to get her running.

[flynn]

Originally Posted by speedy_steve

Previous install:




Current install:


So I guess it is possible to invert a mechanical fuel pump. Anyone else have a situation like this?

Hi steve love the truck. I think the way the pump was installed was correct but I may be wrong. That is the way it is installed in my truck. I am gonna try to put a link up. Hope it helps, it shows lots of straights with the pumps like the first pic 67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=471078

[Jeff La]

I can't see how if you invert the fuel pump it will pump. Lever would be in the down position and push rod could not actuate the pump lever. Spring loaded side of fuel pump has to be in up position so push rod pushes down on lever operating the diaphragm.

[speedy_steve]

Originally Posted by flynn

Hi steve love the truck. I think the way the pump was installed was correct but I may be wrong. That is the way it is installed in my truck. I am gonna try to put a link up. Hope it helps, it shows lots of straights with the pumps like the first pic 67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=471078

I've seen tons of pics but most are from 66's. What could be causing some of the confusion for me is this engine shows to be from a 76-84 model. I'm pretty sure it's not the original motor unless GM/Chevy did a horrible weld job on one side of the motor mount, and bolted the other side to the frame. Yeah, I found that the other day; passenger side...welded; drivers side, bolted.

Originally Posted by Jeff La

I can't see how if you invert the fuel pump it will pump. Lever would be in the down position and push rod could not actuate the pump lever. Spring loaded side of fuel pump has to be in up position so push rod pushes down on lever operating the diaphragm.

That's kind of what I was thinking, but the holes on the block line up and the carter instructions show the lever pointing downward.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...structions.pdf

[jesseo]

Making me want to get started on my truck.

[speedy_steve]

Haven't been able to mess with the old girl at all for the past few weeks and it has been killing me. Hopefully, I'll get some wrench time in this weekend.

[Old Truck Man]

Originally Posted by speedy_steve

Previous install:




Current install:


So I guess it is possible to invert a mechanical fuel pump. Anyone else have a situation like this?

The first pump pictured is installed correctly. Its apparent that the two pumps mount differently.

[speedy_steve]

Finally got her moved to her new home this weekend. Let the fun begin!