Fixin Dixie - 66 Short Bed Fleetside

[msg]

The electrician came out and double checked his work and ran the compressor and saw that it was getting a constant 240. So I then called Engersoll Rand and luckily had til May 23 of this year on the warranty cause they sent out a tech and found it blew a head gasket.

I was not too happy to know the usage I have given it the past 2 months caused that. Seems like typical stuff, DA sanding, Grinding mostly. I might call to see what the cost of an extended warranty is.

Then back to work on the driver fender.





Cut out the base of the bracket to make sure if anything does happen to wash in that it has a better chance of getting out.



Then did the bracket gap filling (seam sealer coming soon)



Then after much tacking, planishing, grinding, and hammer and dolly got the patch panel in place.



Kept going back and forth mounting and checking, ended up having the same 1/4 inch drop issue even though I measured and checked many times but finally got it lined up.





Next steps are to sand these more completely and learn how to use this paint gun I have to shoot some epoxy primer front and back.

[msg]

After repairing the fenders, I had a busy summer and fall and as much as I wanted to really get on with Dixie I just couldnt get there. I tried repairing the dent in the passenger side bed and got close but had to give up considering the rust at the top at the seam and the oil caning I just couldnt get right. So a patch panel will be in my future there along with a bunch of others.

Heres a link to that venture.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635143

Then during the Christmas break I began the removal of part after part til I finally as of today got here.







Since I am new to all this, the posts I have will have more questions than showing how its done. Anyone with tips and suggestions please post.

THE SANDBLAST PLAN
What I am planning is to take apart the truck and have it sandblasted by a local company. I think I'll have to rent a moving truck to follow a tow truck that will have the cab and frame. All of the other stuff that needs blasting I'll pile into the moving truck. The cab I was going to remove the last mounting bolts once on site and get some help of the blasting company to lift it off. Also the doors I was thinking to remove once I get there.

COUPLE OF QUESTIONS
When it comes to the front suspension, brakes front and rear I was wondering what is the right way to prep for sandblasting? Since I need the frame to be towed I need it roll so I have to keep tires on it. I had hoped to get everything that can be unbolted taken apart and sandblasted but that may not be possible.




On the back of the truck bed behind the cab the rolled top portion has rust. Will a sandblaster be able to get into that rolled portion at the top?



At the base of the doors there is of course rust, I wondered if I should cut off the base (enough so that a patch panel will cover it) to have an opening for the sandblaster to be able to access the interior of the doors?




The next first for me will be removing an engine and transmission. Ive got an engine lift and an engine stand that need assembly. That should be fun.

[NevEno]

Nice truck! The repairs look really good. My fenders and doors were fixed the same as yours with bondo.

[Palf70Step]

Your work on the truck is really good. I've gotten stopped in the past on compressor issues also. Mine is ancient though, so I was left piecing the compressor back together (new motor & compressor). About 2 years later had to replace the reed/head gasket.

[4mulaSvaliant]

Great build man! I like the method you are going about all the metal work.
Subscribed!

[msg]

Originally Posted by NevEno

Nice truck! The repairs look really good. My fenders and doors were fixed the same as yours with bondo.

Without wanting to learn to weld I can see how Bondo appeals to folks. Its just awful though to do all that and have it still have it mess up later. I'm sure when/if I ever get the sandblasting done Ill be seeing more of this stuff.

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Your work on the truck is really good. I've gotten stopped in the past on compressor issues also. Mine is ancient though, so I was left piecing the compressor back together (new motor & compressor). About 2 years later had to replace the reed/head gasket.

I was lucky that the head gasket blew when it did, it was in the last month of its warranty, so ER came out and I watched the guy make the repairs and talked with him. He said its unusual for that to happen. Hopefully there wont be another blow out, but if it does I know the parts to order.

Originally Posted by 4mulaSvaliant

Great build man! I like the method you are going about all the metal work.
Subscribed!

Thanks guys for the feedback! I'll try to keep things moving.

[DPowers]

Very nice work.

[msg]

Thanks for that DPowers!

It has been too long since I updated but Ive been in teardown mode and finally took the first few parts to the sandblaster today. It's a start.



Recapping since last post

I removed the transmission and engine, first time doing that and it went well



Got the engine on a stand and starting to make repairs on the info and help Im getting from this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=669346

Next is learn how to set up a paint booth in my 1 car garage with the space I actually have to work in since the frame and cab are still in the way. Once the blaster has those parts ready this week I'll have another first and thats painting the parts with epoxy primer to prevent flash rusting from setting in. Ill be doing this blasting in spurts, smaller stuff I can haul in the back of a 96 accord and then look to rent a moving truck for the bigger items as I go.

[msg]

Been plugging away and got the paint booth finally rigged up and actually got some epoxy primer down on the parts Ive had sandblasted.




Here's the exhaust portion thats positioned on the floor. Im replacing the filters about every 5th spray, gets gummed up by then but seems to works nicely.





Hopefully going to have some time next weekend to get back at it. Its been kinda slow but the paint booth took longer than I planned and I just learned how to use the paint gun. Need more practice for sure.

[msg]

I had hoped to get more panels painted this weekend but the sandblaster place is running behind. So I took time to strip down the fogged up and semi-pitted anodized aluminum custom cab trim plates and the front grill. Used oven cleaner to remove the anodized coating and then wet sanded with 600 up to 2000 paper and then tried out the polishing attachment to the drill with high gloss polishing compound.

After using the oven cleaner




On left is polished after wet sanding, on right is wet sanded only



Then both polished



Then I had my first successful brisket on a weber kettle!! Still needs some fine tuning but it's tasty.



I'll be polishing it off by weeks end.

[msg]

Catching up since last post, had a number of other parts I could fit into the trunk of the accord blasted and got them painted now. The only one that came back as a problem was the front bed panel that has me thinking its probably best to buy a replacement vs trying to get this repaired and rust fixed thats inside the roll.


If its flat or has right angles I can usually repair that though, here the radiator support had a rusted out section so I gave it a shot.


Also got the calipers spruced up




Tonight I was able to get the rear axle free. Now its a decision to either have it sandblasted by the shop or wire brush it if sand becomes a no no with this part of the truck.



Getting closer to getting the frame out of the garage and off to the blaster.
Got to get the rig figured out that will support the cab once I move the frame out of the garage.

[msg]

Catch up

Took the doors off and cut out the base of the doors where they were rusted, then took them to the sand blasters to get done inside and out. They ended up not being able to blast off the rubbery spray insulation part on the inner door, and also left me a good bit to sand off myself where the panel wasnt supported after I cut the base. They said it could warp it if they did, so I take them on their word there.



Then I built my cab stand and lift



The lift worked great but the support box I had to redesign as it wouldn't clear the lift base that needed to roll underneath and the width was too wide to fit in the angled portion under the cab. So I ended up modifying to this.



And yesterday was a fun day.
I rented a 16ft moving truck and called on some favors around the neighborhood for some muscle to lift the frame and rear axle onto the truck, strapped it in and drove to the blasters. They had a much better way of lifting the frame and axle out



Drove back home and unloaded with the same neighborhood crew and today I finally get to prep and paint the frame, axle and few other parts. Getting out there now. Ill post more later.

[NevEno]

Progress looking good! I had my doors wet blasted without any warpage and the spray in rubber stuff scraped right off with puddly knife.

[msg]

Originally Posted by NevEno

Progress looking good! I had my doors wet blasted without any warpage and the spray in rubber stuff scraped right off with puddly knife.

Thanks NevEvo, was it wet blasted using soda? If I can get my hands in there without getting all cut up Ill try the putty knife.

I ended up using a putty knife when I went to lift the front crossmember they blasted for me. I grabbed it from the bottom and my fingers gushed into a mixture of dirt, oil and grease about a qtr inch thick. Right inside the tunnel they couldnt get the nozzle into I guess, bummer. Spent over an hour getting that gunk out best I could and degreased it.

Then I moved onto rebuilding my paint tent that had to be dismantled to get the garage door open. The problem then became that when I had my buddies lift the frame on the jack stands we had it so close to the garage door I wouldnt have been able to stand in front to paint it. Since it was Labor Day and I wasnt going to dial them up again I remembered I had a load leveler and a lift.

I bolted it to the leveler where I thought it was centered but it wasnt. It was still heavy on the rear and swung off the stands and touched down at an angle. So I lifted it from the rear and positioned it by hand while it was suspended. Next time ill bolt back a bit more.

Then I finished building the tent back and started prepping the frame with degreaser. The I shot SPI epoxy primer 2 coats and called it a night.



Next few days Ill paint a 3rd coat and then need to flip it over somehow to get underneath, or mount it up with the lift and leveler and paint it while its suspended. Id rather not do that feels unsafe even with grade 8 hardware.
One day I'll have a rotisserie, paint booth, and hydraulic lift, in a big ole garage. Till then Ill make due with the toys I got.

[NevEno]

We used glass on the doors and garnet on the rest.

[msg]

After 3 coats of epoxy primer I need to paint the other side. Without calling on favors I am trying to use the engine lift to rotate the frame. I was able to use the load leveler to tilt it onto the tires and blankets to stand it upright. Tomorrow I will try and rotate it and sit it back on the stands and finish the paint this weekend.

[RANDY COX]

Wow a lot of hard and good work on repairing those fenders, yea bondo is never a good rust fix, my ole burb had newspaper packed in a hole and then just bondoed over like really how long would that last...I just recently got new repo fenders and I will pop a hole in the bottom of the fender brace since all it does is trap water and dirt and that's what rust's them out anyway...I will be subscribed..

[msg]

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

Wow a lot of hard and good work on repairing those fenders, yea bondo is never a good rust fix, my ole burb had newspaper packed in a hole and then just bondoed over like really how long would that last...I just recently got new repo fenders and I will pop a hole in the bottom of the fender brace since all it does is trap water and dirt and that's what rust's them out anyway...I will be subscribed..

Thanks for checking out my build Randy! Newspaper and Bondo, man. I did that once to fill a hole in the sheetrock when I was a kid, wadded up the paper and stuffed it and joint compound all round. Good luck with your fenders, its worth taking the time to modify to help stop the future muck that pockets and rusts.


This weekend I was able to use the engine hoist to flip the frame to paint the other side. Took my time and covered up the hoist base with a moving blanket to keep it from scratching. Then I took a 4 x 6 and cut 18 inch lengths to take lag bolts and mount the frame. Added some felt to the top of the posts to keep from scratching and added casters to roll it down the drive when the time comes to have the cab blasted and placed in the garage for repairs.



As of tonight I now have 3 coats on the frame and front cross member.

[msg]

Been working on painting and repair the past few months, painted alot of sandblasted parts and panels. The rear axle was blasted and I have 3 coats of epoxy primer on it. As soon as Im done with the paint and repair on what I have I think Ill do the bearing and seal replacements and store it till it's assembly day. Dreaming of that day. Also the trailing arms are painted 3 coats as well, after I finally figured out how to get that bushing out of each so I can replace with the rubber OEM part.
.

The doors that I had previously cut off the base rusted areas are underway now after being sandblasted inside and out. I tried at first a trick that the supplier mentioned on painting the interior of the door and that was to tape up all the holes and crevices and add reducer to the epoxy primer and pour it while tilting the door around so it gets in all the spots the paint gun wont reach. That method didnt work out so good mainly cause you need to mix a bit more than a quart to have it flow across everything. So I took the mixed paint and got a foam paint brush and loaded it up and got into as many places as I can access, pushing the paint into the seams and corners as I went.

Heres the door painted


then shots of the interior after painting


Then I saw some pin holes I didnt see before I had cut the base out and cut that section out and found rust and crud that needed to be dealt with. The other side of the door will be needing a base of door patch panel as well.



Then I had cut the patch panel out as careful as I could, lotta angles and curves there to deal with and they match up so so. 3 things I didnt consider, 1 was that when I had cut out the base of the door and had them blast it, it seemed to warp the panel since there was no support there. So the base of the door sagged in. So I had to get the stud welder out and place pins and try and pull it back up. Mostly it gave me a point to grab as I spot welded and helped to line up. 2nd thing was I noticed even thought the cut panel and patch panel matched in size after cutting, there is a slight gap at the base of the panel where the front panel will have to wrap around and be spot welded. I took the stud welder and pulled it out a bit to line up but its not lining up like I hoped.



The 3rd thing was that either I am putting too much heat as I use the mig welder to spot weld off and on different areas and its shrinking, or that the warping from the blasting caused this.



I will pay closer attention on the other door Im about to work on this week.
I guess between the high build primer and body filler that depressed area will even out. Hope so anyway.

[msg]

I almost forgot to keep the thread going, got derailed in the repairs on the passenger side bed panel and needed guidance. Here is a link to that.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=688673

and heres the last post there..

Originally Posted by msg

This panel has taken a while but Im almost done with it. Just need to bend and spot weld the edge that faces the cab. I might just leave that end loose until I get the truck back together and hang it first to fit.

The upper portion that I used the PVC pipe to form took the longest since that furthest area is not easy to get behind to planish. What a pain, but here it is.



Then I took the (now shorter) patch panel and cut to fit. Measured many times before I got the snips out.



Then I commenced to the method of spot weld, planish, grind, sand many times over



and finally got this



Then fixed broken spot welds on the braces



Then there was an area on the base of the tail light portion of the panel that was rusted through kinda bad so I cut it out, took a scrap piece, got the snips, cut a rough size, then pounded it to match as best I could, then tacked it in and finished it up.



Then there was an area that someone in the past screwed in some holes to pull a dent out, so I prepped it and welded it back flush



Also, a note on the patch panel. Its not at tall on the edges as the original, so I had to get the snips and taper it so it doesnt step up like this.



All for now, hopefully the other bed panel wont be so bad.

As for now Im trying to get that panel painted and out of the shop so I can move onto the driver side bed side panel. Then one day get the cab, hood, tailgate and rims blasted and make repairs as needed. Mainly the cab, thats gonna be fun with all that rust at the base in the usual places.

[msg]

Been working on the driver side panel and getting it in shape. There were 17 holes across the top rail that I had to fill. I guess they had a hand rail and something else mounted to the inside, what a pain.



On the 4 holes on the inside lip of the rail I couldnt get behind it to pull out the cave ins from what ever was mounted there, so I rigged up this to put behind it and use the slide hammer to pull out the recessed areas best I could. If the panel were bolted and sturdy I may have gotten better results, it only pulled a little and I didnt want to distort any more of it.





After prepping each hole I would backplate with a piece of copper with a clamp and puddle in some metal with the MIG. After doing all of the holes I cut out the rear tail lamp base of the panel that was rusted through and welded on a patch panel piece. It was from Top Banana and fit pretty much like the original only the flange didnt come down as far for that spot weld, so I had to fill that hole too.





Then I dealt with that rear side blinker hole I dont want.
I took some scrap and cut a circle with the snips and tacked it in and used the overlapping tack, planish, and grind method Robert helped me with. Its getting better results now. Another thing I tried that helped me in grinding was to use my shop light to better see the weld proud from the side as I am grinding and also it helps me steady the grinder against it so I dont mess up as much.




Still have a few things to get done on this panel then I'll be gearing up for the cab and other parts to get blasted so I can get them in the garage and keep at it.

[Palf70Step]

Nice Work!

[flashed]

You made that look too easy .

[DPowers]

Great progress

[msg]

Originally Posted by DPowers

Great progress

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Nice Work!

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by flashed

You made that look too easy .

Its getting easier with practice, but those pics cover hours of head scratching and working

The panel had an area that had a good bit of body filler in it, so I tried getting it raised up with the help of the stud welder. First try I pulled to hard in one spot and got a bump that I tried to shrink with a propane torch but it just kept getting worse. So I reached out to Robert (MP&C) and he was helpful and generous as always giving me pointers on how to better understand what to do.


But even with the pro tips I had a full day of trial and error. I would get it pulled out perfect with the studs and slide hammer and there would be no oil canning. But even as I would go very slow cutting off the studs and grinding each one down slowly by starting and stopping, the oil canning would happen and it would pop right back down

When I used the shrinking disk or torch the heat spread too wide and raised and expanded too much. What worked best for me to shrink the oil canning out was to use the stud welder to get smaller raised areas hot and then cool with a wet rag.

Finally got what I was after, more level and no oil canning!!



Then there was a dent in the back post cap area, so I found a slot in the side of the post I could get a screwdriver into and banged it out. But of course I stretched the area in doing this but the stud welder shrink method worked out.



Then I painted it up w 2 coats of epoxy primer and stored it away.