Mr Green Jeans - the 69 (or not) chevy, er gmc, project

[OKGMC4]

Found out my engine was out of a 4x4 and the steering hose is different than a 2wd. Turns out the two piece 2wd hose works great. Also, my pump looked like it had gotten intimate with the previous trucks frame... so another pump was test fit and now I know a 99 up 4.3 pump fits the LS truck accessory drive. I did have to tweak the lines a tiny bit and shave a strip off the frame about 1/4" wide but I believe it worked out great. Almost forgot...found a 1 ton truck at the salvage and replaced my 1 1/16 sway bar with a 1 1/4" bar.

[OKGMC4]

Starting to build the brackets to raise the bed. It will be about 6" up. I want to hide my fuel filler behind the tailgate. I used 1/2 all thread in ther original hole and tightened a plate about 5.25 inches up. then built down to the frame. I then drilled a 1/4" hole in a 1/2" bolt, mounted it to the bracket, then used a hole saw to punch a 1.5" hole through the bracket. Then I will add a radiator core bushing at all four brackets.

Why would a person do such a thing? The cab sits on bushings and the bed does not. It seems that both would need to compensate for frame flex. Especially since I intend to preside over a holy union of the the two. Hopefully converting to a unibody won't be harder to do than I think it will. I want to get rid of the gap at the front of the bed. That's also why I cut the frame down 3 inches shorter than a regular short bed. I think once the bed and cab are joined in holy matrimony (making cute little mini trucks) the area between the back of the cab and the rear wheel well will look too long unless some material is taken out.

[OKGMC4]

I love my engine covers but one of the things I find annoying is the lack of access to the oil cap. I found a guy on ebay who sells a billet oil filler for LS1 engines that bolts on and extends the tube straight out. It's just enough to clear the covers....but I have to modify the drivers side to get it to work. I didn't want to just cut a hole in the grill insert so I am moving the bead roll line back and making a filler panel. Hopefully it still looks good once done.

[OKGMC4]

Bed risers pretty much done, tank mounts welded in, just need to build straps. Got the filler in the valve cover-cover. Also had the oil cap machined to be a little more decorative AND when it was smooth it was a bear to get off when tight. Almost needed channel locks.

[Hankster]

I like how its going, I'll be watching this one.

[OKGMC4]

Decided to revisit the firewall some. What's the point of the fancy engine cover and trying to hide hoses and wires if you still have the ugly wire channel up top? Made a filler to match the curve of the driver side and started covering it all up.

[Hankster]

Looks good!

[OKGMC4]

Going to use a trans cooler on the rack. Cheap enough and looks good.

[mcbassin]

Very cool project you have going! I'm gonna follow along from the middle part of the state. Rock on

[OKGMC4]

Now I just need to do the same on the driver side.

[OKGMC4]

Been awhile and need to update. Worked on the firewall some and then the bed floor some. I took out the required 8 inches behind the rear wheels but had more problems in the center. The center brace and the metal above it was rotten so I cut it in half and used some of the 8 inch piece to patch it. Lots of welding and grinding. This part of the bed is more flimsy than I thought, and will have to add more brace material to the bottom to make it strong again.

[OKGMC4]

Since I wanted to keep the thing as straight as possible I used the HF cheap butt weld clamps but bought some longer bar stock pieces to hook them together while i put the two halves back together with my 2.5 inch patch strip.

[OKGMC4]

And then there is this. Sometimes you do something that makes you question your intelligence and sanity. I got a REALLY good deal on a 6.0 engine that turned out to be a REALLY bad engine. Let's just say it probably NEVER had an oil change. But the lure of more cubic inches was too much for me. So I had the block bored and bought new flat top pistons to replace the dished ones. I also had to replace all 8 rods with a good used set. The crank was broke as well. Hilariously broken. Laughably broken. Soooo...I took apart my 5.3 engine and robbed the crank to fix the 6.0 block and had everything balanced. Should be awesome with a good cam and heads. But now I am questioning whether a 4L60E is even a good idea anymore but don't want to cut the floor for an 80E and even had the thought to get something like a Tremec 5 speed that would be stronger and fit OK but really wanted to use a bench seat to maybe once a year seat 3 people instead of 2 so now I can't even decide what steering column to order and I feel my neurosis snowballing and the truck is chasing me in my sleep and I HAD A PLAN BUT WHERE DID IT GO AND...for now I'll just focus on the bed floor, the firewall, and assembling my engine.

[Dustytrix]

Great work,I love the ideas you are coming up with. I will be following this project since I am still collecting parts to build my 67.

[mooseknuckles]

decisions, decisions....

[67ctener]

Excellent fab work

[No$Restoration]

Great build man. I'm in. Fab work is great.

[OKGMC4]

Been out awhile. Not sure I'd say I've been busy, but occupied. I've been collecting some parts. To pay for said parts I do whatever side work I can find, be it rent houses, plumbing, electrical, remodeling work, etc. But the best (fun) kind of work is the hot rod kind. Here's one I've been working on for a bit...a 56 that's bagged, chopped, and has a 5.3 engine. It just came incomplete. Nothing wired up, leaking bags. no bed floor, glass not installed, etc. I got to build my first ever wood bed floor, and he wanted it to tilt. Think it turned out OK. Next one will be better!

[OKGMC4]

I finally got the Eaton in the pumpkin. My dad had the right tools to set it up and I didn't. My wife is happier now that all the boxes of axle parts are out of our bedroom. Also upgraded the pinion yoke. A 6 cylinder truck uses the small 1310 U joint and I wanted the heavier 1350 since I may have a little more horsepower than a 6 holer made back in 69.

[OKGMC4]

Set the cab on the frame. I have to get my doors hung and the front clip set because I can't start cutting / attaching the rear quarters unless the whole front end is locked in place. The GMC fenders were VERY rusted out so I picked up a couple repops. I got one for half price since it was a 68 fender and not a 67 fender like I wanted. I can fill the marker hole. The body gap to the door is bad on these but everything else looks good.

In case anyone else here is building an LS motor...I got the short block assembled and everything looks good but the timing chain. The stock one flapped all over the place and I assumed it was just worn. I kept reading how guys are using an LS2 chain on the stock sprockets as a heavy duty upgrade so I ordered and LS2 chain from Summit. Put it on and it flopped all over the place. It was definitely beefier but I thought a timing chain is supposed to fit pretty tight. Googled "loose LS1 timing chain" and it seems A LOT of people are having this problem. I called the guys at Cloyes and they assured me their racing sets are hand picked to fit correctly. So I ordered one. And it cost a ton. BUT...IT FIT PERFECT. So I guess I'm a Cloyes fan now and thought I would pass on this hard learned lesson.

[T_Raven]

Nice build. I just shortened mine to regular short bed length but I've always wondered what they'd look like a little shorter so it'll be interesting to see how yours looks

[OKGMC4]

Engine assembled

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

Engine assembled

Sweet!

[OKGMC4]

Working sporadically, either too busy or just uninspired. But, been trying to sort out some bodywork and trying to trial fit the quarters to see what needs to be done.

[OKGMC4]

Also want to save a free tailgate I got. It was so beat that I just cut the skin off to get to the big nasty bangs. Then when I got it apart I decided to move the handle to the back, fill the indent, and center the gmc logo.