700R4 build thread.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I'm going to continue this thread to help others that may want to tackle a 700R4.

That's a good idea. I'll try to catch up later.

[clinebarger]

Removing the front drums will expose the Input planetary & Reaction Sun shell.

NOTICE. If there is a plastic Thrust Washer on top of the Input planet, The Unit has a (small) early Forward Sprag assembly, IF you upgrade to a '87 & later Sprag assembly....DO NOT install this Thrust Washer upon assembly.

If the Input Sun gear is left behind in the Input planet, Remove it. Later (90's)units have the input sun gear "snap-fitted" to the sprag assembly.

Remove the Yellow snap ring (pic), Pull the Output shaft out the rear of the case.

[clinebarger]

Input Sun Gear still in the planet upon disassembly....If you have a Early or Mid-Year forward sprag assembly.

[clinebarger]

OK. The output shaft is out, Time to pull the Input planet, Carrier & Sun shell. Grab the Sun shell from the inside 180 degrees apart & pull up.
This will expose the Center Support, Low/Reverse Sprag, & Reaction Sun Gear.
Remove Reaction Sun Gear.

On stock unit's There will be a plastic thrust washer on the low/reverse sprag race, The outlined arrow is pointing at the race, Place this thrust with the sun shell.

Remove the snap ring holding the Center Support (Yellow arrow).

Re-insert the output shaft, One good (Square) hit with a 3 pound sledge will separate the Center Support, Reaction planet, Carrier, & Low/reverse clutch stack, Pull the whole assembly from the top.

Red arrow is the Anti-Clunk spring, Might have a "Case Saver" heavy T looking piece.

[Clyde65]

Chris, I am impressed with your pictures/diagrams with arrows and everything!

or....did your daughter do this for you????

Ok, Im sorry, I just couldnt help myself!

[BADAZ chevy guy]

After you take us through the initial rebuild, can you talk about shift modifications?
I found this video, but I'd like your opinion on shift kit upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B8nyfrFKyo

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Chris, I am impressed with your pictures/diagrams with arrows and everything!

or....did your daughter do this for you????

Ok, Im sorry, I just couldnt help myself!

Actually she taught he how, I did it all by myself, If I ever learn to dress myself...I will be in good shape

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

After you take us through the initial rebuild, can you talk about shift modifications?
I found this video, but I'd like your opinion on shift kit upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B8nyfrFKyo

I will go in depth if you want, That video had some way out dated practices, B&M still does that to this day.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I will go in depth if you want, That video had some way out dated practices, B&M still does that to this day.

Cool. Although I won't be doing any racing (To damn old) I know others would like to beef up the trans for racing and towing. From what I understand, which isn't much, faster/harder shifts actually prevent clutch slipping and helps transmission life. Am I on the right track here?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

Cool. Although I won't be doing any racing (To damn old) I know others would like to beef up the trans for racing and towing. From what I understand, which isn't much, faster/harder shifts actually prevent clutch slipping and helps transmission life. Am I on the right track here?

To a point you are correct, Most people go WAY overboard, Like the guy in the video Blocking the Line Bias valve & running a larger Boost Valve. Block the Bias & run a .500 Boost valve....You WILL break $hit, I promise

The Line Bias valve is used to match the Line Pressure Rise to the Torque Rise of the engine as a Variable Bleed & as a Safety Blow-off if the TV valve sticks. The TV Boost valve size controls overall clutch line pressure in proportion to TV valve movement. I guess its a short cut around actually tuning the line bias in with heavier spring/s to match.

What sky high line pressure does to a 2-4 band at a WOT 1-2 shift behind a ZZ430.....

[franky69c10]

Subscribed

[clinebarger]

Now you will be looking at the Low/Reverse return spring assembly & Piston.
Compress the Return spring cage, Remove Snap Ring, Remove Return spring assembly.
Pics 1 & 2 show the spring compressor tool & usage, You can make a tool similar. Or Youtube/Google.

[clinebarger]

Apply air to the Reverse feed hole, The Low/Reverse piston will pop up, Remove piston.

These are 4L60E pics, 700R4 is very similar.

[clinebarger]

Now that the case is bare, Clean the case thoroughly, Having it ran through parts washer is a good idea. Remove the 2 thimble filters from the case. 1 at the rear of the case (Governor feed) & one toward the front (TCC solenoid feed), Before cleaning

Time to leak check the 3rd Accumulator check ball assembly, It is absolutely critical to check this, If it is leaking it will only be a matter of time before the 3/4 clutches burn down.

The valve body face needs to be pointing straight up.
Install 2/4 servo assembly in servo bore.
Install servo cover and retainer, then pour a suitable solvent into the accumulator bore. Observe for leakage inside case. *Pic.
If leakage is observed, replace 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly.

Remove 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly using a number 4 screw extractor.
Install new check ball assembly, small end first into case, positioning oil feed slot in sleeve facing servo cover.

Using suitable tool, drive check valve assembly until seated in case. To ensure correct installation depth, scribe a mark at 1.653 inch on a 3/8 inch diameter metal rod, then seat the 3rd accumulator and ball assembly as shown. When the scribed line is flush with the case, Installation depth is correct.

The AC-Delco part# is 8634400 if new check ball assembly is needed.

Red arrow is the 3rd accum. exhaust port, It the valve is leaking...Solvent will leak out here. The white arrow is the Bleed orifice...Solvent will leak here...Normal condition.

[clinebarger]

Replace the rear Case Bushing, Knock it out from the rear of case, Install from the front, Not that 700R4's are bad about Case Bushing walk-out like a TH400/4L80E. But procedure is procedure. I use my camshaft bearing installer handle to drive the Bushing Installer & Bushing. I use a Seal/Bearing tool to drive it out.

If ever in doubt, Measure the depth of the Bushing before removal.

Didn't get a pic of my installer, But how many people have a Cam Bearing knocker handle?

[clinebarger]

Time for part inspection & Parts ordering. We will start from the bottom & work to the top.

Reaction (Rear) Planetary assembly is a high wear item.

1.Inspect the reaction carrier/support thrust bearing assembly (683) for damage.
2.Inspect the reaction gear support to case bearing (692) for damage.


3.Inspect the internal reaction gear (684) and the internal reaction gear support (685) for proper assembly, stripped splines, cracks, teeth, and lug damage.


4.Check the reaction carrier pinion end play. The end play must not exceed 0.61 mm (0.024 inch). Inspect the reaction carrier for the following conditions:
•Pinion gear damage
•Proper pinion staking
•Excessive pinion washer wear
•Keystoned pinion gears
5.Ensure that the pinions turn freely.


6.Inspect the reaction carrier captive thrust bearing for wear or damage.

6.1. Without touching the pinion gears, place a bushing or an output shaft sleeve (690) onto the bearing race, and turn it with the palm of your hand.
6.2. Any imperfections will be felt through the bushing.

[clinebarger]

Inspect Low/Reverse clutch "Steels" for bluing "hot spots", Replace if necessary.

Inspect Reaction Sun Gear for damage, If the planet had damage...The Sun Gear most likely got damaged as well. Replace Bushing 100%, High wear area. Wide Sonnax Bushing is preferred.

Remove Inner Race from Center support, Inspect the Low/Reverse Sprag inner race for damage, Replace the Low/Reverse Sprag 100%....Borg Warner Only! This Sprag is technically a Roller Clutch.

[clinebarger]

Next up is the most Infamous part in a 700R4, The Reaction Sun Shell.

AC Delco sunshell (update) kit is the way to go for Stock to Mild builds up to 350 ft.lbs
Amazon.com: ACDelco 24243878 Reaction Sun Gear... Everything to "Rollerize" the Input planet Carrier.

Sonnax Smart-Shell is the next step-up in torque handling, As strong as any "High Risk" component in this unit. Making over 450 ft.lbs.? Rethink using a 700R4/4L60. Info http://www.sonnax.com/landing_pages/smartshell Product http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2454.

The Beast, Monsters, Lions, & Tigers are a waste....

[clinebarger]

Input Planetary inspection.

Inspect the input planet captive thrust bearing assembly. To check the captive thrust bearing in the planet carrier (662) for wear, place a bushing or an output shaft sleeve (690) onto the bearing race and turn it with the palm of your hand. Do not touch the pinion gears. Any imperfections will be felt through the bushing.

Check the input planet pinion end play. The end play must not exceed 0.61 mm (0.024 inch).
Inspect the input carrier for pinion gear damage, proper pin stake and keystoned pinion gears. Pinions must rotate freely.

Check Input planet annulus gear/internal gear for damage (arrow).

The Reaction shaft is snap ringed into the Annulus gear, If you buy the AC Delco update kit....No need to inspect this part (The kit come with a new one), If you are going to reuse this part...Check for wear on the shaft from the Reaction sun gear bushing & for spline wear form the annulus gear.

[cableguy0]

When you are done with this thread I will make it a permanent sticky so its easily found. Your doing a great job explaining everything. Thank you for sharing with everyone.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

When you are done with this thread I will make it a permanent sticky so its easily found. Your doing a great job explaining everything. Thank you for sharing with everyone.

Thanks man!



On to the Input Drum, I didn't instruct to disassemble this drum for a reason. We need to leak test it first.

Take the SunShell that your going to replace & cut the splines off flush with the Shell, This will be your Test stand & Pump stand.

Lubricate the 2 sealing rings on the back of the pump with TransGel or Vasoline.
Do the same with the 4 on the Input shaft, Slide the pump onto the Reverse Input drum/Input Drum assembly (with the plastic thrust washer), Grab the whole assembly with one hand on the pump cover & the other on the end of the Input drum, Flip it upside down onto the test stand.

Reverse Input/Input Drum.
Assembly stacked upside down.

[GASoline71]

This thread is sick... Thanks for everything you contribute cline my friend!

Hope the OP gets the working on his rig problem worked out soon.

Gary

[clinebarger]

You will need a good air blower with a good rubber tip. Air pressure 40 to 60 psi.

Pressurize the Forward Clutch Feed. The Forwards will apply. The 3-4 Clutches SHOULD NOT move, Observe the Apply Cage & 3-4 pressure plate for movement though the holes in the Input Drum.
***'87-'93 4L60 Builders, Hold your finger over the hole directly under the Forward feed hole in the pic, On the side of the pump, This is the Forward Accumulator Feed***

Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch Feed, 3-4 Clutches will apply, The Overrun Clutches SHOULD NOT apply, Confirm this by Overrunning the Input Sun Gear counter clockwise by hand, Have another hold the drum stationary if needed.
(The Input Sun Gear is the gear in the middle of the Input drum in the previous pic)

Pressure the Reverse Feed, Listen for gross leakage.

[clinebarger]

If any of the above air test fail, Let me know & I will help, Explaining all that would take pages.

Remove the Input Drum from the Reverse Input Drum/Front pump by pulling straight up with the Assembly is still upside down.

Place the Input Drum in a parts washer or Drain pan with the Input shaft pointing up, Fill the top cavity with Solvent, Plug the Bleed Orifice with your finger.
Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch feed hole between the 2 bottom sealing rings.

If there is a leak between the Input shaft & Input Drum.....Stop, You need a new Input Drum!!!

Check for 3-4 Check ball Capsule for leakage, Replace this Capsule 100%!!!

[clinebarger]

Continued.. You can't see the Bleed Orifice through the solvent.

[clinebarger]

Finally time to disassemble the Input Drum.

Hole saw a hole in your work bench to stick the Input shaft through so you can work on the drum.

Start with removing the 3-4 snap ring from the Drum, Grab the Apply plate at the bottom of the 3-4 stack, Stack upside down out of the way with the 5 Release springs that fall out of the drum & Snap ring.

Remove the Forward Clutch Snap ring (This snap ring is Stout).
Turn the drum over & The Forward Clutch stack, Forward Sprag Assembly, Overrun Clutches, & Sprag Torrington bearing will fall out of the drum.