Help-carb back fireing

[mud.man.rj]

Hey Tim, wow with all those legs would be hard to fund a project, what are they like for cost, prob not to cheap for anything specialized like that I bet. Very cool you found the problem, figured so. Most try the 3/4 turn preload, I always go 5/8's of a turn..max from 0 turn on the pushrod or just tight drag. I always use a breakin additive and double it, way cheaper than a cam again. Have always for around 20 years used GM cam and lifter lube, always use 2 and Rotella T diesel oil for my 20 min @ around 1,800 rpm breakin then dump the oil and filter, use 10w30 and another Gm additive for about 300 kms, change it out and what ever oil usually still 10w30 so for less leaks in the summer and always run an additive w every oil change on all our cars and trucks, even the newer cars we have for our kids, oil today is crappy so cheap insurance. That is why I preset my timing to 10/12 degrees to fire it up for my breakin so I can get to my 1,800 with the timing close. If you have to play around trying to set the timing you can wipe out a lobe with low Rpm in as little as 1 minute. Good your getting it figured out, and yep I do like the other project, man that can be a nice one when your done, well even before. don't need great paint these days, the patina thing helps a lot to be able to get a project running and use it without the pretty factor.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

The legs don"t cost me.
I"m a vet so all goes thur the VA.

The engine problem was a hard problem to get to the bottom of.
Glad that I will have tomorrow,just going to the VA most of the day.

As for the rat rod;
Guess I need to post on the project site for the build.

T-P Auto
Tim

Will keep you posted on the engine problem as we go back together.

[mud.man.rj]

Didn't know how old you were Tim, I am just turning 53 on tuesday, cool on the price of the legs for sure. As for the cam problem, have run the same before a few times and that is why I mentioned to pull the covers and run at idle or turn it over and watch how much each rocker arm moves, as for yours...they couldn't have moved very many arms hey. Just pulled apart an original 327 in a 68 Gmc, which ran pretty good but made a bit of valve train noise and found that due to having only 27,000 miles on it that the oil had never been changed and was run every year in storage for 20 years now so the oil was gunk and the cam had about half the lobes wore down about 1/2 way, just sad but spare engine now in my back shop for something, can rering and rebearing it but the valve seats also pounded into the heads so need heads, easy stuff at least.
Talk to you soon Tim, just heading out to a friends 46th birthday, young guy.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

I have had several sbc with cam problems,
just not one like this.

I have b-day next month - will be 65 years young - I want to try to get the rat rod running by then.
I want to try to drive it to coffee one morning.
Even if it has no windows in the front ! ! !
Will wear glass for protection.
No law states that I need a ft window to drive.

T-P Auto
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

No law here either, just eye protection, just like back when I had a 56 Cj3B Willy's Jeep with the fold down window, does get windy though, still fun.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

I just found a problem with my "Frankenstine" build.
I was setting the valves by hand,before cranking to set valve lash.
What I found was a bent valve on the #2 cyl exhaust.
I'm just glad I found it before chanking with the started to make it run.
I used the head off a 305v8 that come out of a pu.
I(KNOW) I should have pulled the valve down,I did a leak ck with gas on the bench.
Did not notice the bent valve.
Just so happy to find before I screwed up the piston.

On the "carb-back firing", had to put it on hold till I can afford a cam n lifers n gasket set.

T-P Auto
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

Always something with multiple projects, I usually only have one for myself but do work a "lot" on other builds, keeps me with a few $ for my parts or my kids cars.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

Got the 350V8 pulled oput of the 78 chevy pu today.
My god it is dirty! ha ha
It has been setting around the yard for the past few(80yr).
I used it about 3times a Year for trash haul off or to scrape out metal.
I have had this motor in since 2002 was used motor then.
It still fire up n runs great.
So instead of redoing the heads n intake at this time.
I'm going to clean by the 350,give it new paint,n just run the 2bl carb that is on there.
QUESTION:
What do you use to clean off old oil n dirt?
I have used (oven cleaner) in the past.
Soak it down good then go to a truck wash n wash the hell out of it.
Well that's it for today.
Cheek out the new pic on the"Frankenstine" .

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

oops 8yr not 80- haha
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

I use Gm engine cleaner then switch to brakleen which gets rid of the deep grease in the cast block then paint will stick to it, use a tooth brush inbetween to scrub it a bit. They are always dirtier than we think once they are out, fools me everytime.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;
thanks;
Going to take tomorrow off n spend time with my sister n watch NASCAR.

T-P Auto
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

Sure, sure brag about it, should be a good loud time watching them, nice.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

Spent all day working(cleaning) on the 350v8 engine.
It was not only dirty but alot of it was like backed on.
I use card cleaner,oven cleanern the best ting I found was good old gas n elbow grease.
Still got to clean the front of the engine up tomorrow.
Once I get it cleaned up then I paint it with primer before going with chevy orange n black acc.
I'm going to stay with the 2bld for now, have drove this engine for the past 10 yrs in the 78 pu.
Hope to get the engine cleaned n painted tomorrow.
Hope to pull the 305v8 out of the rat rod on Thursday.
Got another Dr appt on Friday in Alb.
So hope to set the 350v8 in the rat rod on Sat.

So that is my plan for this week.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

mad man;

UP DATE;

On the carb back fireing !

Got the new cam n lifer ordered,
Redone the valves on the heads.
Once the cam n lifers get here,
We (Jim n I) will get it back in the corvette n see if it will run.
We have redone the vac lines n elect wires.
Have removed the EGR, the exhaust tubes n cat from under the car.

Hopefully we will get it running this week end.

T-P Auto
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

Sounds good, remember to use an oil additive for that cam and run it at high idle (1,800-2,200) for at least 15 min.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;

Should I also use n additive in my 305v8 when I start the engine ?
Even when it was already run !
I did pull it down n put bearing in bottom end !
I was planning on cking into this additive.
It has been a while since I rebuilt a motor.

T-P Auto
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

There are a few additives out there now, I have been using GM engine oil additive for over 20 years now, before additives were popular, figured back then that a bootle of additive was way cheaper than replacing a cam. I get mine from a AC delco dealer. I add 2 bottles with 10w30 usually, run the engine foe 15 min min at around 1,800-2,200 rpm then dump the oil and filter to get rid of the filing and crap from having an engine apart, then refill with 10w30 and 1 additive, which I use again at every oil change.

[T-P Auto]

mud man;


Welll got the 350V8 engine back together n running.
Reworked the heads(exhaust valves never seated) think who ever built the engine had the valve adj to tight.
Replaced the cam with a little more lift n dur to it.
Removed the AIR tubes n all hoses.
Removed the CAT from under the car(it rattled when took it off)
Reset timing by ear(Mark is under the water pump at 12;00 (not able to see with lite)
Just a few little things to ck out n clean up the engine bay.

Just wanted to let you know what we did find with the 350V8.

Thanks for the help;

T-P Auto
Tim

[mud.man.rj]

Just back from camping at the lake, nice you have it sorted out, I usually use a vacumn/fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to full/manifold vacumn, adjust my timing full advance till it won't go any higher on vac gauge, which is also where it will start to run bad then retard distrib (clockwise) about 2.5" on the gauge, so if max is say 18 back off til 15.5" and should pretty well be as close as your going to get it for a base. Under most cases won't have to change it at all, it takes into consideration the shape of the engine, any cam or carb. A vacumn gauge is really cheap and handy to hv around. Glad you got yours sorted out, good news.