Wilwood master cylinder? Please help!

[screaminchevypickup]

his bleeders are up the pic is upside down!

[70SBC10BOB]

Fix the high loops at the prop valve.

Then you can even crack the lines at the prop valve to make sure of no air. I've seen guys run the hard brake lines up high along the firewall and have fits getting the air out.

Just picture in your mind, where could a bubbles collect (the high spots) in this system.

I can't remember how to adjust the CAD calipers. I think the spec calls for about .010" clearance at the pads. The more clearance, the more pedal travel.

Try applying the brakes with the one pump and see if either end actually is working.

One last trick. Have someone open the bleeder, then mash the pedal to the floor and close the bleeder (you are not pumping the pedal, just one straight shot). Repeat about three times at each wheel. Some times the volume of fluid will push out the air.

Keep swinging,

[Fitz]

There's never a software geek around when you need one to fix a hardware problem!

[garykirby25]

Trying to fix picture on photo bucket

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by garykirby25

Trying to fix picture on photo bucket

I wasn't referring to your picture. The lines at your master should not have any vertical loops in them. Those will trap all of the air you're trying to bleed out making it impossible to get a hard pedal. the software guy claimed the "factory used loops" and he was right but the loops were horizontal, not vertical and acted as strain reliefs, not air traps. Good luck fixing your truck, and I am not being sarcastic. it just takes patience.

[garykirby25]

Maybe

[garykirby25]

Ok got the picture fixed, hopefully we can rule out, the correct side? This is the rear passenger side, I don't know what kind of caliper because the man that built the rearend put them on. The loop from master to the proportional valve is above the the master about 1.5 inches. Guessing thats the next thing I try, to fix

Thanks for all the help durning this frustrating time!
Gary

[davepl]

In your last picture it looks like the calipers are in FRONT of the axle, whereas mine are BEHIND the axle. I imagine it works either way as long as the bleeders are up.

You don't appear to have brake cables on yet. The Cadillac calipers set their pistons when you cycle the mechanical brake, so either do that by hand somehow a couple of times or get the cables on and so it that way.

If someone can think of a reason why they wouldn't work behind the axle like my photo, let me know. I've had a ton of issues trying to sort out the responsiveness (reaction speed) of mine, but I can't picture how it'd be related.

[garykirby25]

My caliper are behind the axle

[davepl]

OK, we were just looking at different sides then. That must be the driver's side. Is your passenger side bleeder on top as well? Maybe they used the same part number on both sides so one wound up upside-down, whereas you need two different calipers to do it properly.

[garykirby25]

That is the passenger side, both bleed off screws are in the same location.

Really appreciate the help!
Gary

[garykirby25]

Passenger side, maybe this helps

[davepl]

Watts link? Fancy. So long as both bleed screws are at the top, you should be golden. So I think the people that mentioned the lines up front having a loop above the master are the best bet. Even if that's not it, that should probably be done as a 'good idea' just in case.

[garykirby25]

I'm back! Got my lines ran with no verticals lioops and below the master. Still the same result, could it be that I've got 3/16 coming from master, then changed to 1/4 to the rear then spilt back to 3/16?

[71 super]

You need to be 3/16 all the way. You are dealing with a variation in pressure at the 3/16 to 1/4 and that is not good. Remember small master cylinder bore equals more pressure and small line equal more pressure. With drums and wheel cylinders, too high pressure will push out the seals hence bigger lines to lessen the pressure. Calipers need lots more pressure therefore smaller lines. Fix the line problem and you have fixed your brake issue.

[garykirby25]

Originally Posted by 71 super

You need to be 3/16 all the way. You are dealing with a variation in pressure at the 3/16 to 1/4 and that is not good. Remember small master cylinder bore equals more pressure and small line equal more pressure. With drums and wheel cylinders, too high pressure will push out the seals hence bigger lines to lessen the pressure. Calipers need lots more pressure therefore smaller lines. Fix the line problem and you have fixed your brake issue.

Thanks for the response, I pluged my front brake port on master and I had soild brake to the rear?

[71 super]

Hard to tell what is going on after m/c with the lines. It seems there are several things going on. 1- lines above the m/c trapping air bubbles, 2- lines are miss matched 3/16 into 1/4 into 3/16, should be 3/16 to receive most benefits of disc brakes in rear.3 - possible bubble in front corner of the m/ c and needs to be bench bled again, back was lower and when front blocked, the rear works.

[garykirby25]

Can I rule out bumble in master if I plug both ports and have solid pedal?

[davepl]

Originally Posted by 71 super

You need to be 3/16 all the way. You are dealing with a variation in pressure at the 3/16 to 1/4 and that is not good. Remember small master cylinder bore equals more pressure and small line equal more pressure. With drums and wheel cylinders, too high pressure will push out the seals hence bigger lines to lessen the pressure. Calipers need lots more pressure therefore smaller lines. Fix the line problem and you have fixed your brake issue.

I hate to be contrarian, but this is wrong. It's a fundamental law of physics that the hydraulic pressure inside any vessel is constant. You could have 3/16" feeding into 12" wide pipe and back down to a 1/4" and as long as it was bled of all air it would be no different.

You may be thinking of pressure at a nozzle. But a nozzle causes backpressure such that the whole system is then at that pressure.

There are limitations on how small you can go if you need rapid delivery of fluid. But it could be 1/1000th of an inch tubing and the pressure would be the same.

[70SBC10BOB]

Where are the bleeders on your front calipers? Are they on top or on the bottom?

[garykirby25]

[QUOTE=70SBC10BOB;6794488]Where are the bleeders on your front calipers? Are they on top or on the bottom

Top

[70SBC10BOB]

What calipers are you running on the front?

Just trying to put a picture of the whole brake system in my head.

Bob

[garykirby25]

Originally Posted by 70SBC10BOB

What calipers are you running on the front?

Just trying to put a picture of the whole brake system in my head.

Bob

It's the disc brake conversion from gmc Paul

[70SBC10BOB]

When you apply the brakes, even with the low pedal. Do the front brakes actually stop the wheels? (checking in the garage on stands)

Bob

[garykirby25]

We only tried the rear, it would stop just not very quick. When it was running