Serp system advice

[70blackfish]

on the GM get the ALUM. style, and look at vintage air they have a nice one too.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Ok, after some though and a lot of input and help from you guys, I have decided to go with the gm version. I am goin to start going to salvage yards and try and get the brackets from there and order new parts. I am thinking of getting a set of conversion brackets to change the r4 compressor to a sanden style. I can get a set for around $65 from old air. The next question I got is does anyone know what years gm ran a Saginaw style power steering pump in there serpentine systems? I would like to keep that style instead of running a reservoir. Thanks for all the help

[schpeen]

I called chevy today for a price on a full serp system for my 327 and they told me they just came out with a new catalogue and they are showing a full system including everything pulleys alt ps tensioners even includes the belt for $900

[Kaptain Kadian]

Do you know what kind of ps pump and compressor it has?

[schpeen]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Do you know what kind of ps pump and compressor it has?

not sure… you would have to call and ask

[Kaptain Kadian]

Went to a salvage yard today and picked up an entire system including the accessories for $175. It is a little more than what I was looking to pay, but they will remove it and includes everything. I am planning on pulling the brackets off and having them powder coated. I am going to replace the water pump and have the alternator checked out. If it is ok, I am going to clean it up and use it for now. I had a question about the ac system though. I am going to buy some brackets to use a sanden style compressor, but don't plan on charging it for a while. I was going to buy an ac bypass bracket and just use that until I am ready to install the ac compressor. Do I need to do anything else to the rest of the ac system, or is it ok sitting there until I hook up the compressor? Is there any other advice you think I need before I start tackling this thing? Thanks

[dirtyjim]

just cap the hoses off and you'll be fine till you hook the ac back up.
what type of serp system did you get? truck or camaro/caprice? I'm prefer the camaro/caprice setup but most people here are running the truck set up.

I think I ended up paying around the same as you did before buying the ac delete pulley

[IIGW]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Went to a salvage yard today and picked up an entire system including the accessories for $175.

thats about the right price any where.

if you powder coat everything even the alt case it looks really sharp.

[mechanicalman]

Do you have any "u pull it" style junk yards near you?

Assuming you will be installing on a 67-72 pickup, you will need to get a system without AIR pump, you will need to take the R4 compressor if you have A/C, and you will need to take the alternator that comes with it and do the minor wiring modification to that just cut the pigtail off the alt and take it as well as the alt. The p/s pump off your old truck will fit the serpentine system if you change the mounting studs. (Hint, rob them off the vehicle you are pulling the system from). The studs, metric or SAE, will be SAE threads going into the pump always. If you decide to take the pump that's on the system, you can take the flow valve out of the old pump and put it into the new one to use your old pressure hose. Here is a good link on the alternator conversion.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=571082

[Kaptain Kadian]

I do plan on powder coating the alternator case as well. I have another question about an alternator connector. I was reading on another thread, and one person mention using alternator connect ec80 to connect my old harness to the new alternator and said that it had a resistor in it sine I do not have a alternator light but do have a gauge in my cluster. I saw on another thread that the ec80 doesn't have a resistor and that the ec83 does. Can anyone tell me which one is correct? I am picking my system up from the salvage yard Tuesday and have got the r4 to sanden brackets on the way too. When I get them, I am going to break everything down and send it out to get powder coated. Any other words of wisdom out there? Thanks guys.

[mechanicalman]

I don't know about the connector with the resistor, I used the existing wires and spliced them into the pig-tail that came with the internal regulated alternator.

Mine has an amp-meter, and it still works. I've been planning on removing it and installing a volt-meter before I burn my truck down.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Update, I got all the parts back home and have a question about the fan. The 92 truck fan I believe is 19.5 in and my 70 fan is apparently 18 in. Does anyone know if the 92 fan will fit in my factory shroud? If not, could I use the 70 fan and clutch and just flip the fan over sine it is going to be spinning the other way? I have bought a new water pump, radiator houses and a new fan clutch and am going to have the alternator tested soon.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Latest update: not many of the parts I have gotten have fit. I ordered a water pump, but it didn't come with a second outlet for the heater hose. I had to special order one that does have 2 outlets, but now the fan clutch I ordered doesn't fit on it. The hole on the fan clutch is larger than nob coming out of the water pump. Off to the parts store again tomorrow to try and find a fan clutch to fit on this water pump. I have no idea why the fan clutch has different size holes like that. Am I missing something on ordering these parts? The truck I pulled them off of is a 92 k1500 350.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Latest update: not many of the parts I have gotten have fit. I ordered a water pump, but it didn't come with a second outlet for the heater hose. I had to special order one that does have 2 outlets, but now the fan clutch I ordered doesn't fit on it. The hole on the fan clutch is larger than nob coming out of the water pump. Off to the parts store again tomorrow to try and find a fan clutch to fit on this water pump. I have no idea why the fan clutch has different size holes like that. Am I missing something on ordering these parts? The truck I pulled them off of is a 92 k1500 350.

So, you got a water pump for a 92 K1500 350, and a fan clutch for a 92 K1500 350, they fit together but you had to get a different w/p for the bypass/heater hose, right?

No, you didn't miss anything I don't think. 92 K1500 did not have a heater valve, so the heater hose going into the radiator served as a bypass. Using a heater valve if you have a 67-72, you are doing what you need to do.

I DO believe that you can get a compatible w/p to go with the fan clutch, however, and I would prefer to do that so you get a good p/u fan clutch. My 92 K1500 has a water pump with the big hub and a by-pass heater hose opening. Either way as long as the fan clutch is heavy enough.

Also, refer to this chart to make sure your heads have the right bolt pattern for they 92 system. Some heads can be re-drilled if nec. but not all. This will only affect the passenger side head. The GM performance one has a special passenger side bracket for the older engines.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Yes, I bought a water pump and fan clutch for a 92 k1500. The first water pump didn't have the outlet for the heater valve. I don't know if the fan clutch I ordered fit the 1st water pump or not. Kind of irrelevant since it didn't have a heater valve outlet. I checked my heads, and they have 3 bolt holes on the passenger side. I am not sure what year the heads would be, because it was a crate motor. I think I will have to find a clutch to fit that water pump. I also checked the clutch that came off the salvage yard truck and it wouldn't fit the hub of the water pump either. I don't know why clutches won't fit the water pump. Off to the parts store

[Lee H]

Hum, I've never had a clutch fan to water pump issue, I'll bet the store gave you the wrong pump. I also have a 92 K1500, Z71, and I used a 92 K1500 as a serp donor. All the pumps I've bought had the fitting for the return heater hose. I also have a spare pump and clutch fan I can measure. Does your radiator have a bung for the heater hose return line? As for the fan diameter, I used a Derale fan, not real expensive and fits in the shroud just fine.

I PM'ed my cell number. Call me anytime and we can walk through all these issues.

[Lee H]

Picture

[Kaptain Kadian]

With a lot of help from Lee, I finally got it figured out. I was trying to get a water pump that had a second outlet next to where the lower radiator hose connects to the water pump. Lee informed me to use the standard water pump off of the k1500 and remove the top threaded plug and use it for the heater return. So, I have returned all the 2nd set of parts that I bought and rebought the original setup I had with fan clutch. O'Reilly didn't have any of the threaded nipples like the one Lee posted. Off to find one of those. Thanks for the help

[Kaptain Kadian]

Update. It is my birthday and I got a present with my powder coating finally being done. He did a great job. I got it all done for $80. I think I have all the parts and supplies to get started. My brother is coming in from California for the week, so probably won't have time to start on it til next weekend.

[WIDESIDE72]

http://www.kwikperf.com/bbc_serp_kit.html

[Andy4639]

The v-6's out of the small trucks S-10's and such are a real good source for these parts. They inter change and are very cheap.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Well, I have began reinstalling the serp system and have had a few problems. 1st is withe the tensioner. It is basically sitting on the fan shroud. The next is the power steering pump. It is going to be hitting the fan shroud as well. The shafts for the power steering pump sits inside the fan shroud making it where the pulley will be in the shroud. Am I missing something here? Is my shroud just too big? The pulley in the 2nd picture is the crank case pulley

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Well, I have began reinstalling the serp system and have had a few problems. 1st is withe the tensioner. It is basically sitting on the fan shroud. The next is the power steering pump. It is going to be hitting the fan shroud as well. The shafts for the power steering pump sits inside the fan shroud making it where the pulley will be in the shroud. Am I missing something here? Is my shroud just too big? The pulley in the 2nd picture is the crank case pulley

Well, from what I can see, this is an easy fix. Is your fan blade the right diameter for the shroud tunnel?

By the looks of it, the blade is sunken into the shroud. You want your fan blade to line up with the back half of the blade exposed out the back of the shroud for best cooling efficiency at your own discretion, or in a little for safety. So, it seems you can simply cut the shroud back to where the blade fits with a dremel or die grinder.

Can you do a pic showing the blade?

[Kaptain Kadian]

It is hard to tell from the angle, but I would have to cut down a bunch of the shroud. The fan is nowhere near the edge of the shroud. I used the same size fan as the factory one, but had to get a reverse flow one

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

It is hard to tell from the angle, but I would have to cut down a bunch of the shroud. The fan is nowhere near the edge of the shroud. I used the same size fan as the factory one, but had to get a reverse flow one

Cut down a lot, or cut down a little it's still one cut all the way around just measure twice and cut once. It needs to be cut, and looks like you can use that casting line as a guide. It appears the fan will still be in the tunnel after you cut it to the right depth, and that's all that matters.

Check the depth top and bottom in case you need to make an angle cut. If the trans mount is sagged that will throw it off, if so you can replace it or shim it if it needs to go that way (do before you cut).

I think you are about done! Congrats you stuck with it!