Questions about 1965 C20 front end drum to disc

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

Sounds like you probably have a Dana 60, which is a very common 3/4 ton rear end.

Can you post some more pictures of the frame? Might be a GMC 3/4 ton frame that someone swapped in. The drum brakes and coil springs put the front end as '63-'70.

leaf springs were an option on Chevrolet
ron

[66Submarine]

I've heard that, but I don't think I've ever actually seen any evidence of it. Not to say it's not true, but I haven't seen it.

https://gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm...olet-Truck.pdf

They make no mention of any leaf springs for C10-20, only C30 and up. The auxiliary "helper" leaf springs are the closest thing I've seen. It's at least extremely rare--anyone here know of any '60-'66 C10/C20's that they know came for GM with leaf springs? I'd be curious to see one.

At any rate, besides the fact that the rest of the suspension isn't right for a C10, he said the frame also lacks the VIN number that the Chevrolet frames had.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

I've heard that, but I don't think I've ever actually seen any evidence of it. Not to say it's not true, but I haven't seen it.

https://gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm...olet-Truck.pdf

They make no mention of any leaf springs for C10-20, only C30 and up. The auxiliary "helper" leaf springs are the closest thing I've seen. It's at least extremely rare--anyone here know of any '60-'66 C10/C20's that they know came for GM with leaf springs? I'd be curious to see one.

At any rate, besides the fact that the rest of the suspension isn't right for a C10, he said the frame also lacks the VIN number that the Chevrolet frames had.

because yoou haven't seen it doesn't mean it didn't happen.
it has been brought up earlier in the thread that it could have the possibility of being a GMC frame
ron

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by padresag

because yoou haven't seen it doesn't mean it didn't happen.

I said "I don't think I've ever actually seen any evidence of it. Not to say it's not true, but I haven't seen it.", so I thought I made that clear? My point is that I've never actually seen anything but hearsay about it, and it was at least extremely rare; evidence of this is also the fact that it's not mentioned in the GM literature I linked to. Do you actually have GM records or other evidence of C10's or C20's with factory leaf springs? Like I said, I'd like to see that if anyone has it. I'm not saying it didn't happen.

it has been brought up earlier in the thread that it could have the possibility of being a GMC frame

Yes, and I agreed with that; my point was that the fact it appears to have factory leaf springs also suggests that.

[nelson-ohio]

This may indeed be a GMC frame, it came with a GMC tailgate and a GMC front grille. They are not in the best shape, so I may switch back to Chevy front grille, but I like the dual lights on the GMC.

I will go ahead with the 84 C20 front end, it should work out. Once I do that, I will know for sure what I have, instead of guessing. For the rear, I will probably leave it alone for now until I solve the front part first.

In any case, thanks for everyone's help.

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by nelson-ohio

This may indeed be a GMC frame, it came with a GMC tailgate and a GMC front grille. They are not in the best shape, so I may switch back to Chevy front grille, but I like the dual lights on the GMC.

I will go ahead with the 84 C20 front end, it should work out. Once I do that, I will know for sure what I have, instead of guessing. For the rear, I will probably leave it alone for now until I solve the front part first.

In any case, thanks for everyone's help.

That makes a lot of sense; probably a GMC 3/4 ton frame and suspension/running gear.

[Captainfab]

Here is a picture chart that should help you determine what differential you have.

[nelson-ohio]

Ok, went and go the front. Will try to fit it on first to make sure everything lines up.

didn't get the rear, but can go back later and get it if necessary. However, I do have a question about what's current installed on mine.

The rear axel has this huge center that sticks out the current wheel by about 3-1/2". I don't like how it looks. Not sure if this is normal or what I can do to change it. I don't like how it would look when I install the normal rim.

any advice?

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by nelson-ohio

The rear axel has this huge center that sticks out the current wheel by about 3-1/2". I don't like how it looks. Not sure if this is normal or what I can do to change it.

That is a full-floating hub; all the 3/4 ton and up stuff has them, because it's a superior setup to the semi-floating axles.

I don't like how it would look when I install the normal rim.

What do you mean? It has normal wheels on it now IMO.

[66Submarine]

Here are a couple pictures of mine; the one with the black wheel is the Eaton under my '65, and the other is a '76 3/4 ton 14 bolt.

[nelson-ohio]

Ok, thanks.

As long as the center cap can cover it, it will be ok. I was worried it will stick out the way it is now.

[Captainfab]

You could go with a 9.5" semi floating 14 bolt, but they do not have the weight capacity of the full floating 10.5" 14 bolt.

[bmur66]

Originally Posted by nelson-ohio

The rear axel has this huge center that sticks out the current wheel by about 3-1/2". I don't like how it looks. Not sure if this is normal or what I can do to change it. I don't like how it would look when I install the normal rim.

any advice?

I have a Dana 60 that looks just like that.

[nelson-ohio]

Ok, I got the 84 C20 front end, removed the frame part, need to remove the caliper as well, but the socket head holding the caliper in place is rounded off, so I will have to cut it and drill it off. Any good ideas?

Also, I noticed the spindle for this 84 C20 disc front is larger than the 65 drum C20 front. I measured the distance between the upper and lower nut holding the control arms, it's about 3/8' further apart than the 65. Is this about right? Would this make the front sit higher now? The whole disc spindle/disc/caliper assembly just looks larger than the drum assembly.

1 more thing, over the weekend, I found a set of 2004 Silverado front seats, bought it for $150. Not sure if it's a good deal or not, but the guy was 2 miles from me, and it seems these seats would fit the 65 really well. It's not in the best shape, would like to get it re-upholstered, not sure how much that will cost.

A picture of the existing seat as well. A little dirty, wiped down 1 section of it, not sure how close to the original it is. The color seems to match the column and instrument panel.

[Captainfab]

Are you referring to the outside of the caliper bolt being smooth? The caliper bolts have an allen socket head, not a typical hex head.

The spindle height difference shouldn't be noticeable. Are you changing the entire crossmember, or are you trying to use the original control arms with the disc brake spindle?

[nelson-ohio]

I plan on changing the whole cross member. Will rebuild the whole thing before final installation as well.

The allen socket head bolts are not holding the allen wrench, it looks rounded inside. Anyway to make them work with a wrench?

[Captainfab]

Are you sure you have the right size of allen wrench?

You could try clamping a pair of Visegrips on the outside of the caliper bolts very tightly. To use a wrench you would have to file or grind some flats on the outside of the bolts.

[61K10]

don't know about a 66 but i had a 69 3/4t chevy that had leafs and a wooden bed floor.

[nelson-ohio]

I have started working on this again, just signed up for the premium member here.

Now, I'm trying to figure out a few things about the position of the idler arm, want to make sure I get it right before I drill any holes. Not sure about a few things:
- should the center link of the steering linkage be positioned exactly in the middle? See the first picture below. I wonder if I should mount the steering gear box first so it will hold the driver side of the linkage in place, then find where the idler arm should be positioned and drill the holes.
-In the picture 2nd picture, you can see 1 of the holes on the idler arm just fit this hole on the frame. Not sure if I can use this hole yet. So how do I make sure the linkage is positioned correctly the best I can? Or can front alignment take care of this? I don't want to be in a position where it's so wrong, the alignment won't fix it.
- last thing. with the position of the steering linkage shown in picture, it will get in the way of the sway bar that came with this 84 front end. It seems I need to have an extender on the frame, so the sway bar will be below the steering linkage.　　Anyone has experienced this?

CaptainFab, I will be needing these mounting adaptors for the steering gear box.

[OldGMJon]

my 65' GMC lwb I1000 (C10) has leaf springs.

[Captainfab]

Since you have already removed the stock steering linkage, I would say, yes mount the steering box next. Then mount the idler arm so that the draglink is parallel to both the bottom of the frame and the crossmember.

[nelson-ohio]

Quote: "Since you have already removed the stock steering linkage"

I still have the original steering linkage, I can put that back on if that's easier. will it fit the 84 front with disc I'm putting on? Or do I still need to drill new holes for the idler arm?

[Captainfab]

I always recommend using the later model/donor steering linkage. The correct way to go about this is to take some reference measurements as to where the stock draglink is located. Then position the new draglink in that location with the steering box in place. Then you will know exactly where the later model idler arm needs to be and can drill the holes.

[nelson-ohio]

Understood. that makes sense. I will try and see how to make it the best fit, still have the old parts I can put them on and mark things down.

[Bentbolt]

Tag as I'm looking to update c20 to a c10 suspension
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