Home built rear antiroll bar

[69restomod]

Hey 68stepbed, good looking truck I sent you a pm.

[NEWFISHER]

Put me on the parts list please. Im game to fab one up for the 46. Would like the info on the pillow block bearings too please.

[SierraMtns]

How will you attach the Spring Steel rod to the bearing?

[KMC3420]

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/22390R.pdf This link shows how hotchkis has their rear sway bar, same concept.

[Dan@Hotchkis]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/22390R.pdf This link shows how hotchkis has their rear sway bar, same concept.

Only plus a few days worth of engineering to calculate vehicle roll rates, tensile strength of spring steel used and final testing. And a warranty. But yeah, hey, other than that they are the same.

[KMC3420]

Not what I meant by any means, did not want to step on any toes. That is why I posted the Hotchkis link so anybody could see. I was referring to the Energy suspension mounts with the zerk in regards to how your bar is mounted compared to the pillow block bearings used by the original poster and asked by (SierraMtns). Sorry if that did not come across that way, which it obviously didn't. I in no way would try and degrade what Hotchkis has done from and engineering and R&D standpoint. My apologies.

[Dan@Hotchkis]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Not what I meant by any means, did not want to step on any toes. That is why I posted the Hotchkis link so anybody could see. I was referring to the Energy suspension mounts with the zerk in regards to how your bar is mounted compared to the pillow block bearings used by the original poster and asked by (SierraMtns). Sorry if that did not come across that way, which it obviously didn't. I in no way would try and degrade what Hotchkis has done from and engineering and R&D standpoint. My apologies.

No worries. As an enthusiast (not a company)I get a little scared when folks start whacking together bits. I've been asked to test drive cars that were so scary I had to decline the offer. The bar stock he is using is not designed for what he is building. May not be tomorrow, may not be a year from now, but eventually that thing will fatigue and shear, hopefully not while he is pushing it in a corner.

I am just as much of a backyard guy as anyone else is ( I build my personal cars and projects in my backyard); but there is a lot of stuff on our cars and trucks that require a bit of science and numbers, which is why we have a full time engineer on staff to do all of our math. This allows us to offer a complete and tested product that installs easily and just plain WORKS!

[KMC3420]

Thanks for the reply Dan and agreed on materials list, CD 1045 steel would be a much better option as well as a c clip retainer somewhere in the mix to hold both ends in, in case of a failure. I am unsure of the diameter of the Hotchkis bar, but from an engineering standpoint that is where you guys know your stuff. Classy response as well, I was fearing an A$$ chewing.

[NEWFISHER]

There is a reason all high end performance based track cars/ trucks run Hotchkis and its not because of the pretty powdercoat they use
Like mentioned, its engineered to be safe, easy to install and work. I like the backyard approa h using the correct materials , well my wallet like that approach.

[69restomod]

Hey guys been super busy at work welding up some inconel flanges worth 50k at work so finally got some time to get on here and send some pms and such. Again thanks for everybody's input and comments, I didn't think this would get so much attention! And thanks to dan from hotchkis for chiming in and I hope I didn't piss anybody off there! I appreciate the info and would love more input on how to better what I built! I am just a hot rodder trying to make some cool parts for my truck! And was building this mainly as a prototype to see if I could even make it work. I am a welder/ fitter/fabricator/pipe fitter(welder) sheetmetal worker for a living, I have a college degree in welding, just for a lil bit of background on my self I do not know everything and am always willing to learn. But my passion for trucks and building things with my hands are what lead me to do what I do!

[69restomod]

For the guys wondering about the bearings I used they are browning flange mount bearings vf2s-110 is the part number says they have a 2150 lb dynamic load rating per one , you can find them online or get different ones through McMaster carr

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by 69restomod

For the guys wondering about the bearings I used they are browning flange mount bearings vf2s-110 is the part number says they have a 2150 lb dynamic load rating per one , you can find them online or get different ones through McMaster carr

Thanks!

[69restomod]

Hey guys just put an order in to McMaster care for the correct steel and a new better bearing design with a 2850 lb capacity load per bearing and the bearing will be incased so it can't come out and has a 4 hole bolt pattern. Version 2.0 for the haters is in the works will post step by step and pics once I get the material !

[Dan@Hotchkis]

Very cool! Looking forward to the finished product.

[chevyrestoguy]

I'm curious about what you're going to go with on the bar. It needs to be a steel bar that allows some torsional bending. I have been looking at used racecar swaybars on ebay, but I'm unsure on what would be a good rate# for our trucks. I don't want a high rate# because I think that the bar would become counter productive if it was too stiff. I think that if you got a 3/4" or a 1" bar with splined ends on it, along with some splined arms to match, that would be a good start.

I'm drawing up plans for a rear bar as well. I'm not sure if I want to mount the bar between the framerails, or pillow-block it and mount it on top of the framerails.

[mongoose]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

I'm curious about what you're going to go with on the bar. It needs to be a steel bar that allows some torsional bending. I have been looking at used racecar swaybars on ebay, but I'm unsure on what would be a good rate# for our trucks. I don't want a high rate# because I think that the bar would become counter productive if it was too stiff. I think that if you got a 3/4" or a 1" bar with splined ends on it, along with some splined arms to match, that would be a good start.

I'm drawing up plans for a rear bar as well. I'm not sure if I want to mount the bar between the framerails, or pillow-block it and mount it on top of the framerails.

and more expensive than a normal sway bar.

[69restomod]

Just got my new material and bearings in hopefully have it cut down and machined before I leave work today!

[69restomod]

Got the bar cut down to length and machined to fit in the bearings, and started on my arms got them cut down and holes punched in them and tacked together to keep them identically the same and will cut them down to their final shape tomorrow hopefully.

[bs46488]

Someone else posted this website for builder parts for exhaust.

I see they also have some roll bar parts and since this thread has been so popular thought I'd share.

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/onl...way-bar-parts/