1963 LWB bagged project

[provelless]

This is what I call my mid-life crisis truck, sold it a few months ago .

[provelless]

This one I take it to car shows and to the rod run in Pigeon Forge a few times its a lot of fun!

[Vics63Chevy]

Love that rocket! Hahah your 63 is lookin better every update, I'm subbed.

[ProudSoul]

Lookin good man. What kind of compressor is that? Like all your other rides too, the s10 is my fav!

[provelless]

Originally Posted by ProudSoul

Lookin good man. What kind of compressor is that? Like all your other rides too, the s10 is my fav!

The compressor came with one of those cheap kits off ebay, I have a feeling I'm going to regret buying it at some point. For one you only have one motor running both compressors if it fails your screwed. I'm already thinking of adding another compressor.

The s10 was a very sharp truck, won several 1st place trophys with it but it rode like crap. Also I got tired of young chicks pulling up beside me thinking I was some young dude and seeing the disappointment on their faces when they see some old grey bearded man driving, haha.

[Popcorn W]

Wow, you're really moving along. I better get busy.
What size blocks are you using on the rear? I was looking at mine and thinking it may not be possible to lay frame with stock trailing arms.

[provelless]

Originally Posted by Popcorn W

Wow, you're really moving along. I better get busy.
What size blocks are you using on the rear? .

3" blocks made from 2x3 tubing and I'm pretty sure that's what the swb guys are doing too. Are you planning on moving the trailing arm crossmember back any? The reason I asked is on mine from the original stock height to being layed out the rear axle moved forward 2.5 inches. I only moved it back an inch though, I know some of the guys that didn't move it said that wish they had because when its layed out the wheel is to far forward. How are those modified control arms coming along?
I hope tomorrow I can get the bags, tank and compressor all hooked up and I've started body work on the cab. The cab needs all four cab support mounts gonna try to tackle those this week.

[Popcorn W]

Originally Posted by provelless

3" blocks made from 2x3 tubing and I'm pretty sure that's what the swb guys are doing too. Are you planning on moving the trailing arm crossmember back any? The reason I asked is on mine from the original stock height to being layed out the rear axle moved forward 2.5 inches. I only moved it back an inch though, I know some of the guys that didn't move it said that wish they had because when its layed out the wheel is to far forward. How are those modified control arms coming along?

I hadn't heard about the rear axle moving forward. Never thought about it. I was really hoping to complete mine without taking the cab off. My cab mounts aren't the greatest. I can leave them like they are, but taking the cab off may mess them up.
I guess I can add about an inch to the arm mounting tabs so I won't have to cut the trailing arm crossmember rivets, which I can't get to with the cab on.

Isn't that 3" block going to give you almost no error in your scrub line or are you going to run 22s or something with a very low profile tire?

[provelless]

Popcorn if I understand the meaning of scrub height correct, if I were to have a flat will I have something dragging or hitting the pavement. I'm not sure but I'll check tomorrow. When I looked into laying frame with stock trailing arms this was what people were doing.

[Popcorn W]

Yea, I have 1.5" blocks and even with those, if I have a flat my U-bolts will be making sparks on the pavement. I'm guessing with 3" and stock wheels you'll be flying sparks if your tires are 10 lbs low on air.

[Popcorn W]

Here's mine with 1.5" blocks. Those are 255/70-15 tires (about 29" diameter)
Let me know how the 3" ones look when your U-bolts are on. I actually may go with 3" also if they look like they'll work.
I guess if we both have blow-outs there will be flying sparks either way, 1.5 or 3, huh?

[provelless]

Here's mine with 17' rims and 27' tires. I actually let all the air out of that tire to see if the bolts would hit but not enough weight on it to see but its definately close.



But heres the way I look at it, you have 4 bags, 4lines and 8 air valves if any of those fail your going to be digging up asphalt to, just part of it I guess.

I did manage to get my air valves and compressor hooked up tonight and tested. Seems some dumbass forgot to put Teflon tape on all the pushlock valves that screwed in top of the bags.

[provelless]

Well I pulled my bags back out to put Teflon on the fittings and realized they had Teflon on them. I remember now they had Teflon on them when I got them I had just forgot . Anyway I clean the threads up added three or four wraps of Teflon, aired them back up and it still leaked. Cleaned threads again added six or seven rounds, aired them up again and their still leaking. The fittings I have said they were NPT threads but I'm starting to wonder. They screw all the way down flush with top of airbag as if they have no taper. What do you think.

[provelless]

Ok so I think I see the problem. I measured them and they are .790 at the small end and .795 at the big end. I then measured my other 1/2" fittings and they are .800 at small end and .830 at big end. I sent a message to the ebay seller curious what he will have to say.

[provelless]

Ok its been a while time to catch up to where I am now. Started on cab supports, I got these from Rockauto it took a lot of cutting to make them fit.

[provelless]

Started body work on cab. Deep bondo in this corner









Rocker panels weren't to bad I was able to just repair them.

[provelless]

I sanded rest of body, paint didn't want to feather edge but got through it . Seam sealed around top lip of cab and various other spots. I used a House of Kolors epoxy primer and think I might leave it this color. Also have drivers door repaired and steering column and power steering pump installed

Unable to post any more pics something about a missing token, I'll try to post pics later

[provelless]

The actual color is somewhere between the first and last pic, its kind of a funky green but I think I like it.

[ProudSoul]

That color is awesome!

[provelless]

Drivers door is finished. I had ordered the door bottoms from Rockauto and ordered 1960-1963 bottoms, what I got was 64'-66' bottoms. When I went back to check part# they give the same part # from 1960- 1966. I was able to use them though just cut off the top part I didn't need.

Started the passenger door and its much worse. It needs the inner and outer door bottom. I started grinding the bondo away and never found where the bondo ended. So I took a knife and started digging in random places on the door, from bottom to door handle and there is a layer of bondo ranging from 1/8 to 1/4 thick on the whole door top to bottom. I really think the only way to fix it would be a door skin and I really don't want to mess with that. I'm searching for a door and having no luck. I live between Chattanooga and Knoxville TN if anyone knows where I could find one, thanks Ken

[Popcorn W]

Wow, you're really moving along!
I really like that color. What color were you planning on painting it?

[provelless]

Proudsoul thanks, when I first sprayed it I hated it but within a few minutes I was digging it and ever time I see it I like it a little more and that has been everyones reaction when they first see it. It looks flat in the pics but it has a satin finish.

Popcorn I was originally going to try a fake patina type paint job ,probably a light green color. I really don't think I have enough skills to pull that off to my satisfaction though. My main goal was to get away from having to do perfect body work and a satin color will help. I did the body and paint on the s10, Chevelle and plane car and I drive my self crazy trying to get it perfect. I'm kind of a perfectionist without the skills to be so. Anyway, I'm striving for a good looking truck as long as you don't look to close.

[creep]

Looking good!

I would recommend removing the Teflon tape from the fittings and using Loctite 545 thread sealer. From what I've read the Teflon doesn't seal as good and can shred apart and foul up your valves.

[Nacho_Paras N.L.]

Nice!! Great progress...

[1963c-10]

I like the color and I think it pulls it off well in a satin finish