my 63 upgrade

[1strong63]

nobody can supply the A-arm nuts torque please?

[Mjminino]

Various Torque Specs


I Also love those valve covers!

[joe dirt]

looking good

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

Various Torque Specs


I Also love those valve covers!

hi thanks for the link. i've found in old mechanic book with some stuffs relating bolt size,thread type and force applied and do the maths to find 100lb/ft for the upper and 140 lb/ft for the lower.
today i've put back the crossmember on the frame and the arms. once bolted and held in place you can move them with 1 hand does it sounds good for you pals that have already do the A-arm bushes?

i hesitate for a long time to paint or not the valve cover in orange and finally they are better black.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Soyez bienvenue. Any pictures of the interior?

here is the mess






i'll have to check and rebuild the harness. i remove a lot of useless wires from the PO. it is not in a bad shape but sometimes the brake lights are both working then only the left, then the right. as the same for the small green light in the panel instrument when you activate the turning lights etc...
i have a new sender unit for the tank.
the bench seat is a bit dirty but i'll make a cover, i just need to find the good fabric.

[aerotruk63]

Email me your mailing address. I'll send you a shop manual.

[1strong63]

does someone has a used DS door handle? mine is broken just where you hold the clip for the door lock cylinder and i only find them by pairs at more than 40 bucks + shipping.

also on my big block i had stock pulley 3942992 BA for the WP and 3921923BM for the crankshaft, as i don't have PS and want it simple i have build a bracket for a 1 wire powermaster atlternator that is spin by an additionnal pulley on the WP but i do miss and cannot find the PN for the belts from the crank to the water pump.


it seems they are "elastic" belts cause there is no tensionner and i've foud a lot of pictures of engines with those kind of belts.
it's an aftermarket kit by you get the idea.


can someone help me?

[1strong63]

the big block is also much heavier than the small so i plan to use 3/4 ton truck coils.
does anyone already do the swap or tell me what you guys using when swaping in BB on half ton truck.
does anyone think this stuff will work?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...20Air%20Shocks
cheers

[Mjminino]

Pm me

[Mjminino]

If I am correct, your tensioner for the v-groove belt is your alternator. That's how it is on mine.

[Coltronist]

Welcome! I've got my 63 and I'm doing the same thing. I have stayed in tours for a few months at a time and have great friends there, never had a chance to go Down to Marseille.

So wait you bored and stroked it to be a 496ci?! What was it before?

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

If I am correct, your tensioner for the v-groove belt is your alternator. That's how it is on mine.

you are absolutely right. but as the alternator was before it was hiting the frame so i cannot got that way.
and now i cannot use the double groove pulley cause it doesn't fit the alternator.
but those elastic belts exist there are plenty of pic of them. if i can't find them i''l try to mod the alternator and do a new braket to use the twin pulley and use the alt as a tensionner.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Coltronist

Welcome! I've got my 63 and I'm doing the same thing. I have stayed in tours for a few months at a time and have great friends there, never had a chance to go Down to Marseille.

So wait you bored and stroked it to be a 496ci?! What was it before?

hi what's your thread i want to see how you're doing. it was by mistake, i got wrong when ordering the new pistons, i took same bore/stroke so when i put them on the crank i was missing stroke to go up the cylinder wall. luckily there was a SCAT crank to stroke it back to normal.
it was a 454 genIV. i calculated before but forget it, it's only stroked so it might be a 482 or 496 i don't remember, anyway it's fatter than 454.
i smell a RAT.

will you ever come back to france?

[Mjminino]

So did I read that right that the alternator is bottoming out and you can't tighten it anymore?

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

So did I read that right that the alternator is bottoming out and you can't tighten it anymore?

yes and no. the alt that came with the engine was place very low at the right (looking from the front of the engine) it had a double pulley and used as a tensioner for both WP and crank pulley's belts. as it was placed it cannot fit inside the c-10 chassis.
now i have a powermaster 140A alt that i place on the top left of the engine for clearance. but due to its size it is placed a bit forward the head and i have to use the additional pulley on the WP to spin it. (2 groove WP pulley + 1 groove aditional for the alt)
i have a standard V-belt for alt i just need to find the 2 same elastic belts for the WP to the cranck.
see the top pic at post#32

[Captainfab]

The big blocks with short water pumps had the alternator on the drivers side. This would be for trucks '72 and earlier and cars '68 and earlier. There are also aftermarket brackets available to mount the alternator on the drivers side.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-2026

This is what I used on my '66 Suburban with a 454.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9502

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9581/overview/

Here is one of the better manufacturers.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com

[1strong63]

done a bit of work today, i'm working all day for my regular job and stop to the shop a few hours before getting back home.
the front end is back together. all new ball joint, rubber brake lines, front weel bearing and seal, rebuild wheel cylinder.


then as the front is done i switch to the back.
i don't have a c-clip rear end so i am ****ed, the bearings and seal i have for the shaft are not the good one. the pinion seal is good anyway.
i have those big shafts with the bearing hold by a pressed collar on the shaft and a tiny seal in the axle tube. anyone know what this 12 bolt is?
i've check all four corners of the centersection to find labels or numbers but no one of them seem to match with the decoders you find on the web.


then the differential was a real pitty. the po done a work that you cannot describe with words. i had 0.5mm of play in the pinion.
when i dismantle the pinion i found that the rear bearing didn't seat properly.

the there was no shim between the centersection and the bearing cup so the pinion was to low on the ring gear, check that pattern.

i've found new bearing at a local store but i hope i'll be ok with shims.

[OldGMJon]

Originally Posted by 1strong63

hi, and thanks for the welcome. Sorry to ask but can we just add 5 pics per post on the thread? if you want to add more pics do you have to do multi post?

Welcome to the world of old Chevy trucks...yes, you have a limit of how many pictures you can post at one time by the level of your membership.
Looks like you are working like a pro so far...

[Captainfab]

I don't know just what differential is under your truck, but it is not a 12 bolt. If you post a pic of it including the cover, we can help you identify it.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The big blocks with short water pumps had the alternator on the drivers side. This would be for trucks '72 and earlier and cars '68 and earlier. There are also aftermarket brackets available to mount the alternator on the drivers side.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-2026

This is what I used on my '66 Suburban with a 454.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9502

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9581/overview/

Here is one of the better manufacturers.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com

thanks i'll have a look.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't know just what differential is under your truck, but it is not a 12 bolt. If you post a pic of it including the cover, we can help you identify it.

here it is but it's a 12 bolts no?

there is also something that doesn't match, in 63 you were not supposed to have self adjuster in the rear brake. i do have them.

[Captainfab]

Yes that is definitely a truck 12 bolt cover and of course the housing will be as well. Apparently someone in the past has done some work to that housing and converted to pressed on axle/wheel bearings. The ends of the axle tubes would have had to be changed. Those axles are likely aftermarket also. Self adjusting brakes first came out in '66 on the trucks.

[1strong63]

put the engine and tranny in the truck. i've tried to place it as backward as i can to offset the overweight of the BB over the front axle and place the gear shifter in the correct location compared to the 420.


i'm using this motor mount, the engine mounts seem to be pretty weack for a BB. i had to cut and drill the frame to find a good position.


as the 465 is bigger in all way than the 420 i cut a portion of this crossmember. i'll box it once the engine with headers are in correct position. i'm using a HD construction pipe for the gear box crossmember. i'll use the holes that are normally used to bolt the crossmember that hold the E-brake ****. now i don't know how i'm gonna deal with the E-brake?


then i've found that the transmition output is much higher than the center bearing of the driveshaft (it's hard to see in the picture) but the opening in the crossmember for the shaft is pretty huge so i'll do a spacer between the bearing and the chassis to make the 1 rst part of the shaft aligned.

[1strong63]

the project is at dry dock at the moment as i'm waiting for a few parts to keep going.
my rear drum brake hardware are different for the left and right side and some parts are missing i guess. i also have one of the drum out of size to be machined more, it is pretty badly hurt and we cannot machine it cause we are 0.06" over the max.
any one of you have a good used drum to sell?

i suppose that the engine should be tilted properly can someone can give me the correct angle for the engine, and i'd like to get pics of BB in the truck to get an idea compared to mine. i feel the engine is too hight i still have 1.5" from the oil pan to the A-arm crossmember and it'll help me to lower the engine cause i'll get a better angle for my driveshaft and more clearance for the transmission/body.

can you guys with BB can keep a mecanical cooling fan? i only have 3.5" from the water pump to the radiator?
cheers

[1strong63]

and look what i've found on the rear brake plate. is that for ford motor company?