How many like their diesel squares?

[rs74]

Probably getting ahead of myself here but hopefully I have a guy buying my 454 and 400 trans this weekend. If so then maybe a trip to Tennessee for that short bed next week. Sounds like it may need a transmission though. Guy said his local shop could rebuild the 700r4 for about $450 convertor included. Sounds awfully cheap though. I have been looking in the local yards and they are wanting about $300 for a used one.

[Edahall]

I like the diesel in my Suburban and I like the fuel economy it gets but don't like having to pay nearly double the price of diesel fuel over unleaded. So the diesel Suburban sits while I drive my other gasoline powered vehicles that are less costly to operate.

[crashz]

My 87 is the third 6.2L diesel I've owned. All of them have left me stranded at least once, which is remarkable since the 87 has only made about 6 trips on the road. Proper fuel system maintenance is key to keeping these things running well, and that goes much further than just changing the fuel filters.

The 6.2 is a great engine for a light truck like a C10 or K10. Acceptable power, long life and with the right gears great fuel economy. It has its weaknesses, but once you get familiar with them, they are pretty simple to fix and keep running.

I suggest, at a minimum, checking the following:
- Glow plug function (controller, plugs, don't start with ether!)
- Replace harmonic balancer if old and weather cracked
- Check/clean/replace battery cables and grounds
- Check/Replace the two batteries. Should be a matched set and make sure the cross over cables are clean and functioning with little resistance. With the truck running, if you get different voltage readings at each battery, the cross over or ground is bad.
- New fuel filters.
- Functioning lift pump. A good air tight system with a failed lift pump will still work, but puts undo stress on the IP. I'm convinced that my IP died a slow death due to a failed lift pump.
- No fuel leaks anywhere. Check/replace rubber fuel and return lines.
- No air leaking into the fuel system (easy clear tube check for that)
- the starter has the proper bracket on the motor end. These typically get lost in replacement and it is thought that this is why starter bolts fail and the ears of the block crack.
- IPs and injector typically have about a 100K mile lifespan.
- A functioning block heater and synthetic oil help the starting issues.

Currently my 87 still suffers from a tiny air leak in the fuel system. It does not affect operation, but does allow fuel to drain back to the tank and is part of the hard start issue. It also suffers from bad battery cables, glow controller issue, and has dino 15w-40 in it, so turning over is slow even with good batteries.

[rs74]

I will say I had one issue with mine. I had bought my truck not running. I was told it just died on them one day and they couldn't get it started so it sat for a year before I bought it. I brought it home and ended up draining some fuel out of the fuel filter and repriming before it would start. However it took me holding down on the pedal just a little bit everytime to get it to start. After it started it ran like a champ. It just took giving it a little pedal while cranking to fire up. I never looked into why, just got used to doing it that way for no more than I drove the truck.

[D13]

Looking forward, IF I decide to fire it back up, I'm going to install a Racor pre-filter, 88-up electric lift pump, and a Racor 2 micron with heater and water trap on the fire wall. That should take care of thos annoying air leaks. Also going to add remote buss bar and run both batteries to it (current cable set up gets hot enough to melt the lead out of the terminal where the L/R / starter cables all come together), already added extended terminal screws for jump starting, replce fan with e-fans, replace oil cooler line with braided hose, 2 new batteries, timer relay on the glows (currently on manual switch and Ferd relay since upgraded to non-swelling glows)... Replace harmonic balancer... get damening pully rebuilt.... Add remote fuse box with relays to replace the 30 year old headlight wiring and get relays for the fan and pump... LED dash lights... Working radio?

or just buy a gasser.

[rs74]

Going to look forward to how this truck runs and drives out once the trans is fixed. Of course I have to get it first tomorrow. Low to mid 20's for mileage would be nice at interstate speed if possible. Maybe high teens for combined driving. I will know tomorrow I guess.

[78K20]

I like mine. Purchased 4 years ago from Oregon. Had it transported to Northern Indiana. I don't / won't drive it in the winter here, due to the extreme amount of salt that is spread on the roads.

Mine is a 6.2 N/A "J" code engine, came with a 700R4 originally, but now has been upgraded with a 1987 model 700R4 (much better, with HD upgrades).
Also came with 4:10 gears. I'm running 33" tires. 4X4 K20. Factory air cond.

I use the truck mainly to pull my trailer with either my tractor, or my hot rod on it. Usually, about a 6,000 lb. pull. No problems. I recently installed a aluminum B&M deep well transmission pan (2 extra quarts), and am in the process of installing a trans temp gauge, and tachometer.

I originally bought this truck to make it my new plow truck, but when it arrived, and I got a real good look at it, top to bottom, I just couldn't bring myself to subject it to the winters here.

I also recently bought a used Banks Turbo kit, but not sure if I'm going to install it. Don't want to cut anything on the truck.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by D13

Mine eats both batteries every 5 years.

I wouldn't consider getting 2.5times the normal battery life to be "eating" them....

[crashz]

78,

That is a beautiful truck!