vent window woes

[highwinger]

Oh, so loosing that rear channel will allow the window to side towards the rear. Great, thanks. New name for you: RockDoc

My new gaskets will be here tomorrow, but wife's 50th bday will preclude me from trying them this weekend. Not complaining...she too.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

Oh, so loosing that rear channel will allow the window to side towards the rear. Great, thanks. New name for you: RockDoc

My new gaskets will be here tomorrow, but wife's 50th bday will preclude me from trying them this weekend. Not complaining...she too.

Some days I don't feel too RockDocky...

When you get to it let us know how it goes....

LockDoc

[vectorit]

Originally Posted by highwinger

I'm getting there it really seems doable. Whose gaskets did you use?

I don't remember really, it was a long time ago.
I just remember going through a lot of hassle, and not getting the finish product I was expecting. So I threw in the towel, saved my coins, and bought a new set of wings.

Good luck to you and your rebuild!

[highwinger]

More than you ever cared to know about vent window gaskets...


The following pics are direct side-by-side comparisons of the vent window gaskets from my original purchase (PRP via Brothers) and my recent purchase recommended by LockDoc (United via Classic Parts). From this initial look, I believe the CPs will indeed work better. Here's why...

Pic # 7 & 8 are of the ends that connect to the vertical gasket. I believe the CPs are shaped properly to not form bulging at the intersections like I saw with PRPs. CPs are shown on the right in the pics.

[highwinger]

The next two pics show the mid section of both pieces of gasket. #9 is the area where the gasket meets the pivot rivet bracket. Obviously, one has a cutout and one doesn't. If you read the previous posts, you'll recall I had concerns about the PRP gaskets and having to cut that section out. Not a big deal, but just the unknown necessary procedures are what make the process frustrating.

#10 shows the holes for the rivets to mount the vertical portion of the gasket. You can see the CPs have a counter bore molded into the rubber. This is better because it give the rivets a more positive stopping point and they don't squeeze out the rubber from underneath.

CPs are on the right in both pics.

[highwinger]

Finally (at least for pre-install), is the forward bend end of the gasket...the area that keeps my wing from closing properly currently. #11 shows the area that seats into the metal gasket c-channel that holds the gasket to the frame. I've felt like the current PRPs are too loose which allows the rubber to be pulled out by the window upon closing. Not good. This pic supports that belief. The CPs (on right) are more rounded and thicker which should conform to the c-channel properly. I expect they'll be harder to get install into the channel, but won't pull out once they're in.

Another observation is the flap thickness. I had a hard time getting the wing to rotate on installation. One reason was the combined width of the two flaps and the frame made for a very tight fit in the angled door frame which it has to pass thru while rotating the wing into position.

I won't be installing this weekend for a couple reasons. One is I didn't get the pivot rivets from CP. Btw, it does appear the gaskets rivets from LMC are sized slightly different. I don't know which I prefer yet, but I didn't really like the how the LMCs worked previously. So I will looked forward to a different set to try. Also, I think the issue I had with the wing glass moving is likely due to the rivet shoulder being undersized. I can detail this more when I get the replacements.

[Layne]

Thanks for the pics! I'm still trying to talk myself into trying mine.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

Finally (at least for pre-install), is the forward bend end of the gasket...the area that keeps my wing from closing properly currently. #11 shows the area that seats into the metal gasket c-channel that holds the gasket to the frame. I've felt like the current PRPs are too loose which allows the rubber to be pulled out by the window upon closing. Not good. This pic supports that belief. The CPs (on right) are more rounded and thicker which should conform to the c-channel properly. I expect they'll be harder to get install into the channel, but won't pull out once they're in.

Another observation is the flap thickness. I had a hard time getting the wing to rotate on installation. One reason was the combined width of the two flaps and the frame made for a very tight fit in the angled door frame which it has to pass thru while rotating the wing into position.

I won't be installing this weekend for a couple reasons. One is I didn't get the pivot rivets from CP. Btw, it does appear the gaskets rivets from LMC are sized slightly different. I don't know which I prefer yet, but I didn't really like the how the LMCs worked previously. So I will looked forward to a different set to try. Also, I think the issue I had with the wing glass moving is likely due to the rivet shoulder being undersized. I can detail this more when I get the replacements.

It will be interesting to see how it goes.
Just be sure to lube that bottom corner good before you try to install it.

LockDoc

[highwinger]

Any preference on getting the door glass with or without the metal lower included? Fairly significant price increase with the metal. Is the suburban glass the same as the truck? It would seem they are different since the door seals differ.

[highwinger]

Yes, the glass is different...I finally found a pic of the burb glass: http://www.restorationperformance.co...ower-frame-rh/. That's the best price I found too. Classic Parts is only $10 more. I might have the glass made locally since I can't seem to find it without the frame.

So you can remove the vent window and/or the door glass independently? No need to remove one or the other first to get the other out? I'm just thinking of doing the vent & door glass at different times. Once I figure out the vent, I'll go the glass so I don't ruin the glass...again.

[highwinger]

Update: I installed the new CP rubber last night. I'm getting pretty quick in the process now . All the differences pictured above were in fact contributors in making the CP brand a better product. It snapped in well into the groove and stayed there and the window opens and closes as expected. Seeming a little thing to ask.

I'm having the door glass made today locally. I have the felts on order. Repops is owned by MontCo now and supplies Ecklers (also local), so I ordered them today too. I'll re-tint the glass before installing back into the door. Then I can move on the driver door and repeat. I have to replace the virtual "4th" door glass too after that.

Thanks for all the help. I can post some more pics later.

[highwinger]

I got everything installed last night except the felts which are due tomorrow. Everything works as expected...wow...that was easy . It really isn't too bad when you know what your're doing and the parts work right. The rubber was obviously better from CP and I think the rivets worked better too. I didn't have any slop in the pivot rivet from CP. I really hate the trial & error of the reproduction parts. They are not all made equal. I hope this thread will help other avoid my hassles. Unfortunately, I don't think there is any one go-to vendor of everything.

The window I replaced had grey glass so that's what we put back in. It isn't as dark as the tinted glass on the rest of the burb, so I will probably get it tinted after I do the other windows. I tried tinting the new one last night but I could never get it clean enough and it peeled off when I installed it back into the door. That's a job the pros do cheap & better IMO.

Is grey glass standard? Or green or clear?

[highwinger]

Here's some pics of the areas of noticeable improvement. During the install, the rubber snapped into channel well with a bit of soapy water and it didn't pop out like the previous brand. Pic #1 shows the fit around the pivot bracket. The CP gasket already had the cutout where I had to figure it out with PRP's. Pic #2 shows the how well the two pieces fit together. And last but most importantly, Pic #3 shows the fwd bend area fit. I used a clamp to help snap that section into the channel. Once it was in, it stayed put. The wing didn't pull it out of the channel like with PRP's. Success at last.

Now on to the driver door, then the second seat windows...

[GMCPaul]

Originally Posted by highwinger

Here's some pics of the areas of noticeable improvement. During the install, the rubber snapped into channel well with a bit of soapy water and it didn't pop out like the previous brand. Pic #1 shows the fit around the pivot bracket. The CP gasket already had the cutout where I had to figure it out with PRP's. Pic #2 shows the how well the two pieces fit together. And last but most importantly, Pic #3 shows the fwd bend area fit. I used a clamp to help snap that section into the channel. Once it was in, it stayed put. The wing didn't pull it out of the channel like with PRP's. Success at last.

Now on to the driver door, then the second seat windows...

Unless they have changed Brothers was not selling Precision made vent window seals. The CP supplied seals pictured look to be just like precisions.
Paul Je. @ GMCPauls

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by GMCPaul

Unless they have changed Brothers was not selling Precision made vent window seals. The CP supplied seals pictured look to be just like precisions.
Paul Je. @ GMCPauls

I called Brothers but they wouldn't give out their vendor's name. In my door seal thread, I apparently found PRP supplied them to Brothers. I could be wrong. Thanks for clarifying.

[LockDoc]

-
Glad to see you are back on track. Looks like everything is going pretty smooth. The original glass would have been clear or a light green tint called "Soft Ray"

LockDoc

[highwinger]

Thanks again for your help Leon.

To add to the drama, I apparently ordered the wrong felts, but I made them work.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

Thanks again for your help Leon.

To add to the drama, I apparently ordered the wrong felts, but I made them work.

No problem.

Sometimes it's hard to figure out exactly which item you need.... Good deal on making them work though.

LockDoc

[highwinger]

Any trickery to removing the 2nd row windows? They're next since I dropped off the driver window this morning.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

Any trickery to removing the 2nd row windows? They're next since I dropped off the driver window this morning.

I don't remember for sure. It's been too long since I did mine. I do remember I had trouble getting the little 1/4 windows out, but it was just because they were stuck. Unfortunately I didn't do a writeup of any kind.

LockDoc

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I don't remember for sure. It's been too long since I did mine. I do remember I had trouble getting the little 1/4 windows out, but it was just because they were stuck. Unfortunately I didn't do a writeup of any kind.

LockDoc

I was assumed the 1/4 window would have to come out like the vent window for the front doors. In the FAM, I see a couple screws that hold each one of the guides. Expected process:

1. loosen both guides & remove 1/4 window screws
2. remove upper run & possibly the fwd run
3. slide glass fwd
4. remove 1/4 window
5. remove glass

omits pixie dust to make go smooth

[highwinger]

I'm not finding the 2nd row window felts many places. LMC shows they but are 2x cost of front doors. Any suggestions?

I'm also confused about LMC's glass run. They show fwd & top as one piece but don't show the rear piece. Would the rear be the same as vent window piece?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highwinger

I'm not finding the 2nd row window felts many places. LMC shows they but are 2x cost of front doors. Any suggestions?

I'm also confused about LMC's glass run. They show fwd & top as one piece but don't show the rear piece. Would the rear be the same as vent window piece?

http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-.../#.VQmONqrVrTo


I will see if I can find my receipt for the felts. Yes, I think I used the wing window channel. I would measure them for comparison.....

LockDoc

[highwinger]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-.../#.VQmONqrVrTo


I will see if I can find my receipt for the felts. Yes, I think I used the wing window channel. I would measure them for comparison.....

LockDoc

Thanks. I didn't catch those were for the rear door(s).

[cooperhw]

Great info. Thanks.