1972 Jimmy + 5.3/4L60E/NP205

[hemi43]

This build cost me a fortune !! I saw that Dakota dash and I just had to have one. Damn you Keegan! LOL

[ls1nova71]

Update time.......

[GMC-YA68]

With some help from LS1Nova, here is a quick teaser. This was just a temporary hit to see if the thing would actually run!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qc-dj4PYJlM

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by hemi43

This build cost me a fortune !! I saw that Dakota dash and I just had to have one. Damn you Keegan! LOL

It will be worth it....I hope. LOL

[GMC-YA68]

fast forward:

Time to put the body back on! Originally I thought I was going to have to drop the frame down as low as I could and bring it in from the rear of the truck but with the help of my wife and a 9000lb Harbor Freight winch bolted to my garage floor we were able to swing it in from the front!

Installed all new 4:56 gears front and rear. All new bearings/races and seals in both axles and went with a new Eaton Posi unit in the rear. Also just because, bought new axle shafts for the rear as well. Bought all this thru Yukon Gear and Axle. Their parts are the best IMO.

Installed all brand new MOOG suspension parts. Everything up front is brand new MOOG. Tie rod ends, drag link and drag link ends, upper and lower ball joints, etc.

New brakes all around. Used the CaptainFab rear brackets and calipers / rotors / lines from his recommendation list. I got a hydroboost from a 03 denali and bought the CaptainFab mounting brackets. Had to swap out the reservoir (not pictured) for one that didn't have Active Brake Control - note the front nipple for the active brake. Got with Hydratech and they got me the correct lines and fittings and everything went together seamlessly.

Bought a new steering gear box from RedHead and a new intermediate shaft from CPP.

Installed the AC Delete cover. This was a task and took lots of mock ups.

Bought Doug Thorley Tri-Ys. (the big ones). I bolted on a TBSS manifold and just didn't have the "look" I expected. I know they work, and look good once ceramic coated, but bare, they look cheap so I opted for a good set and went with Doug Thorley. All in all they fit great. Even installed the Lokar ACA-1800 shift linkage and it clears. (barely).

Also went with the Entropy radiator and electric fan option. Fit like a glove. When I had BP Automotive I had him wire it for the 2 speed fans. Both fans run at low speed once they reach temperature. I haven't had the truck running long enough for them to kick in high gear but I upgraded to a 145 amp alternator to make sure I had the bases covered. The Entropy radiator I purchased had the built in transmission cooler. (hence the braided lines attached to it) Don't stare too hard at the green line, it's just what I used for my temporary steam line.

Another addition is the hidden trailer hitch. I don't plan on towing (BIG) items but a small utility trailer here and there is now do-able in the future. The install was a bit of hassle simply due to the fact of the cross member location for my fuel tank. A bit of patience and I got her stuck in there.

I am currently finishing up the wiring on the front end and with my DD gauges. Will post some updated pics of that soon.

Also headed to the exhaust shop tomorrow to get some pipes put on her. Right now it has open headers and it is a bit obnoxious driving around. LOL. Will most likely go with a true dual / h-pipe set up.

[hemi43]

Thanks for those pics !! I'll be getting ready to put the body back on mine soon also, and was wondering how much clearance there would be between the firewall and engine. The close up pics of the shifter linkage also helped. I was planning on using a design similar to the factory linkage with the transmission to frame pivot, but this looks much simpler. Did you eliminate the detents on the original steering column? Did you change the shift indicator lens to match up to the 4L60E? There's none available for the non-tilt columns, so I modified one designed for tilt with a 700R4. Not perfect, but will do for now till something better comes along.
One last question!! On the power steering pump, which pressure regulator did you use? The one that came with the 5.3 or the original 1972 one?
Thanks, Dan.

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Thanks for those pics !! I'll be getting ready to put the body back on mine soon also, and was wondering how much clearance there would be between the firewall and engine. The close up pics of the shifter linkage also helped. I was planning on using a design similar to the factory linkage with the transmission to frame pivot, but this looks much simpler. Did you eliminate the detents on the original steering column? Did you change the shift indicator lens to match up to the 4L60E? There's none available for the non-tilt columns, so I modified one designed for tilt with a 700R4. Not perfect, but will do for now till something better comes along.
One last question!! On the power steering pump, which pressure regulator did you use? The one that came with the 5.3 or the original 1972 one?
Thanks, Dan.

Clearance between firewall and engine is TIGHT. I think I could maybe get a finger between it, if that.... I'll shoot some pics tomorrow.

I didn't modify the steering column at all. There was enough space to get all the way down to 1st gear the way it was. Is that what you are asking?

I haven't changed the shift indicator YET. Mine is a tilt but I plan to because the wife will be driving it sometimes and I am trying to make it as simple as possible. If I don't do it that way I may purchase the Dakota shift indicator that way it shows on the new gauges (the way I am mostly leaning to). Since you have a non-tilt I would look into that as well.

My neutral safety was bad. (PO bypassed it) So I grabbed and new one and it works great. Only starts in park or neutral.

As far as my steering pump. I used the factory LS PS pump. The lines/fittings I got from Hydratech were for the LS pump, to the hydroboost and for the factory steering box. It came with a (I will call it a jet, like a nitrous jet) looking fitting to place inside the output of the high pressure of the PS pump to reduce the amount of flow. He mentioned without that it could cause the fluid to bubble and in turn make the pump whine. I haven't had an issue yet, but I have only driven it about 10 miles without the front clip on it!!

[hemi43]

I'd love to see some close-ups of the engine to firewall. I thought for sure there would have been tons of room, because the 4L60E plus the Advanced Adapter technically moves the engine forward almost 2 inches.
Even though I have the same Dakota cluster as yours, I want to keep the interior of my Blazer visually original right down to an AM radio. The deck will either go in the glove box or console.
Keep the pics coming, I love this build!!
Dan

[wannabefastcrf]

Did you add the cross member in front of the gas tank? Is it from a 73+ chevy?

[wcelliot]

What size and offset rims/tires? Nice stance!

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by wannabefastcrf

Did you add the cross member in front of the gas tank? Is it from a 73+ chevy?

that cross member was from another 72 frame. It is just another rear crossmember. But anything would work as long as it fits.

Originally Posted by wcelliot

What size and offset rims/tires? Nice stance!

They are 18x9 w/ -12 offset, and 4.53 backspace. Tires are TOYO 325/60/18.

[wcelliot]

Thanks!

[hoist00]

Did you just flip your newer style fuel tank around so that filler neck was on the drivers side?

[jamesjones]

Did you paint the engine with a brush or did you spray it?

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by hoist00

Did you just flip your newer style fuel tank around so that filler neck was on the drivers side?

yes sir!

Originally Posted by jamesjones

Did you paint the engine with a brush or did you spray it?

I just sprayed it with a rattle can. Took a wire brush and some degreaser to it and then hit it with some self-etching primer and then the paint.

[hoist00]

Do you see any problems with just flipping the tank around, it seems a lot of people have cut and spun the filler necks then rewelded them which looks like a lot more work?

[GMC-YA68]

I flipped mine and haven't had any issues with it. It's got about 400 miles on it so far. here's another thread with some more pictures.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=670191

[GMC-YA68]

Got the top off her last weekend. It will probably never go back on!

[lowrodderchev]

Any pix of your fuel line setup?sweet truck by the way

[GMC-YA68]

I've just got a few. Left some slack in the lines at the tank in case I ever needed to drop it down.

[lowrodderchev]

thank you for posting those very detailed pix. I'm running the same sending unit and tank on mine. only difference is my fuel rails have a return. guess i'll be ordering more parts today

[lowrodderchev]

if you don't mind me asking what fittings did you use on the fuel sender? I notice you had a adapter between 2 of them. why's that? thanx

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

if you don't mind me asking what fittings did you use on the fuel sender? I notice you had a adapter between 2 of them. why's that? thanx

Because the fuel pump sender has quick disconnects, and most aftermarket fittings are AN/JIC.

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...87062/10002/-1

I used all plastic fuel line for both feed and return on my 5.3 conversion. Once you use this stuff, you'll never use anything else. It's a fraction of the price of AN fittings and braided hose. The nylon line won't break down either with today's fuels that contain ethanol.
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/fuel-system?

[lowrodderchev]

I'm talking about the sender from the tank. theres a adapter to the tank then a another adapter then the line. I was planning on running my line directly to the adapter

[Thealien]

Nice job, brings back memories. I did a similar swap a few years ago. Not as nicely detailed though. I miss it.