Bumper bracket mounting questions

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Be VERY careful those brackets are lined up correctly when you bolt the bumper on. I bent mine long ago, likely because they weren't lined up, and therefore the faces on the mounts weren't flush with the bumper. As a result, there are two small spots that were pushed out to conform with the brackets.

That's one reason I'd like to confirm my bumper is OEM, as I'd like to have it straightened and re-chromed at some point. I believe it is OEM, because it was purchased decades ago after it had been re-chromed.

I would add that you need to be careful of the aftermarket bumpers and brackets. Check out THIS (post 2222) in my thread. I ended up trying 2 different warped bumpers and the brackets ruined the first bumper.
The aftermarket bumpers are thinner and the steel is very soft too, so you want to use Loctite and be careful tightening your bolts.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I would add that you need to be careful of the aftermarket bumpers and brackets. Check out THIS (post 2222) in my thread. I ended up trying 2 different warped bumpers and the brackets ruined the first bumper.
The aftermarket bumpers are thinner and the steel is very soft too, so you want to use Loctite and be careful tightening your bolts.

The brackets on my truck came off a Blazer. I can't say for certainty they're the correct brackets, as there are two different types. One for coil springs the other for leaf. The Custom Deluxe is leaf. I ordered repro. brackets (sitting in a box and haven't been opened), because the ones on the truck were drilled for an after-market receiver hitch (U-Haul to be exact, since removed). The repro. brackets I purchase seem heavy enough. Got those from Classic Heartbeats. Note: Any imperfections on the face of the brackets need to be smoothed out. otherwise you may see the effect on your bumper.

There's something to be said for keeping the step bumper. Mine included a receiver hitch as well. The hitch may have been a dealer option.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by Jonlopes

That sounds like a plan. The good thing is my little 120V compressor is at least oil lubricated cast iron as opposed to the oilless designs. I see you can get some of the "Better" brands of cut off tools for only about $55 (IR, Chicago Pneumatic, Air Cat, etc). Do you think they are better on air consumption than the $10 HF version?

I don't think either will make much difference one way or the other. Buy the cheap one. Keep it oiled and it will last just fine. I cannot stress enough to stay away from electric angle grinders with cut-off wheels. Way too easy to shatter the wheel and the pieces hurt when they hit you...especially if they imbed themselves into your flesh.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I don't think either will make much difference one way or the other. Buy the cheap one. Keep it oiled and it will last just fine. I cannot stress enough to stay away from electric angle grinders with cut-off wheels. Way too easy to shatter the wheel and the pieces hurt when they hit you...especially if they imbed themselves into your flesh.

I totally appreciate the warning. I am going to give it a go with the air cut off tool making sure to give the compressor many rest periods so I don't burn it out.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

If/when you get the bumper off, you might offer it up for sale. There might be another member that could use a heavy duty unit like that. Of course you would have to become a contributing member to sell items on this forum. There is always the CL also.

What's the policy on giving stuff away? I don't do CL, but have given a lot of stuff I no longer need to other board members. Biggest thing was a longhorn camper, but lots of small stuff too. Don't want to pay for the privilege.

[Jonlopes]

Well it took like 4 hours but I finally got the old bumper off yesterday. I found the air powered cut off tool to be pretty worthless. I have the best compressor you can have on 110V: Husky 30 Gal and it would go for 2-3 minutes before the compressor kicked on and the oil lubricated cast iron pump seemed to keep up just fine (though I did not push it too hard). The issue was at 100psi it just didn't have the power to go through the welds. It cut through thick pieces of mild steel quickly but I guess the welds are of a harder steel. I ended up using my angle grinder not with a cut off wheel but the thicker metal grinding wheel. This combo was easy to work with and I was able to remove all of the welds with just two wheels. It took about 4 hours to get through all of the welds and remove the bumper with the huge elaborate bracket system. I then got lucky and the new bumper with brackets went together easily. The only issue I had was the holes for the gravel shields did not line up with the brackets so I left them off figuring I would measure and drill new ones when I had more energy (I was pretty tired by then).

In all the truck looks great and the license plate is now visible so I am no longer worried of being pulled over for that. I have no real plans of towing with this truck but if I do I think there are frame mounted receiver hitches that I can mount.

[Davidf]

Glad you got it off. Light pressure is the key to the cut-off wheels...let the machine do the work. Also, you want to keep the speed up on the wheel for best results. It is that lack of torque that keeps you out of trouble. Bottom line is you got it off and no injuries to talk about.