IFS Install This Weekend - Need Advice

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks solidaxle!

Good info, will check them both out.

Anyone have a link to Fatman Fabrication ifs installation instructions for Task Force trucks? STILL haven't found mine and I know I have them.

Got a lot of logistical issues sorted out this afternoon after work with my BIL. Got my big 60 gallon upright compressor moved & wired up and I think there's a switch problem because I know I've got power to the switch and can't make it turn on. Compressor not frozen, turns freely. Power to the switch for certain. I'm guessing a replacement switch is an order only item, DOH!
Truck is centered in the driveway in as level a spot as I have. Leaving now for a family graduation(geez) so tomorrow it'll get leveled and doghouse is coming off, front suspension coming off. Already bought plate for frame boxing, 4-1/2" diameter heavy wall pipe for notching rear of frame and smaller, 1-1/2" heavy wall pipe for R&P notch and some 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 Angie iron for stabilizing frame rails before pulling front cross member off. Will do about and from below on front horns and on top at rear near firewall. Still need magnetic protractor.

[Coupeguy2001]

COMPRESSOR----->The high pressure switch might be stuck in the shut off position. Try tapping on it with a screwdriver handle, or JUMPERING IT WITH POWER OFF, THEN PLUG IT BACK IN.
PS,
The 3/8 line was for running the hydraulic lines from under the cab at the hydroboost to the power steering pump and steering box, not brake lines.

[1958Warrior]

Another option for adding power brake booster, depending on how much vacuum you do have , is to run a vacuum canister

fairly simple and not very expensive at $40+ some vacuum hose

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/b...operation.html

[Russell Ashley]

"Did you guys all fabricate your own cover plate for around the steering column as it passes through the firewall/floor? I assume you incorporated some kind of clamping mechanism on this cover? Any tips on this?"

Dan , There is a steel plate bonded into the rubber cover that goes around the bottom of the steering column. I peeled the rubber off of it and used it as my cover plate to weld in over the hole. It has the hole for the column and also a hole for the shift rod for my three speed transmission. I then made a smaller cover plate that I welded to the column jacket and this plate screws to the lower plate. Simple and didn't cost me anything. I then bought a new rubber cover plate and bolted it in over the floor mat and cover. This places you column back in it's original position so might not work for everyone if you need it moved for steering linkage but it's simple and cheap.
Hope you are "gittin her done" today. Show us some pics as progress is made.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 1958Warrior

Another option for adding power brake booster, depending on how much vacuum you do have , is to run a vacuum canister

fairly simple and not very expensive at $40+ some vacuum hose

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/b...operation.html

Interesting, I've looked into them before but their site says the canister will only hold up to the max inches of vacuum your engine develops. If I remember correctly my 283 with its current cam only develops 12" or 14". I need more and one of the vacuum pump kit costs $299 so I'd be better off swapping cams, "while I'm in there" - SEE, it always comes around to that! But the Speedway site DID give me good information about what specs I likely need for a replacement cam. This:

"350 S/B Chevy - 9.0:1 compression, dual plane intake, 600cfm carb, auto transmission 3400 pound weight. 260°-268° advertised duration, 210°-220° duration at 0.050" lift"

AND

"If your vehicle has a ratio higher than 3.40:1, the lower end of the recommendation will provide the torque curve desired."

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

COMPRESSOR----->The high pressure switch might be stuck in the shut off position. Try tapping on it with a screwdriver handle, or JUMPERING IT WITH POWER OFF, THEN PLUG IT BACK IN.

Thanks for the heads up. This is a Harbor Freight upright 60 gallon I bought used a couple years ago and never hooked up. I DID hear it run and let it cycle on and off a couple times so I know it works. I took the cover off the pressure switch and nothing was obviously wrong but then again I don't really know what I'm looking at. Tried jumper-ing (that's not a word, lol) the contacts and only succeeded in frying my cheapo continuity light - but the good news is that to,d me there IS power to the pressure switch. It has two "things" which kinda/sorta look like the stem of an engine valve with small diameter springs wrapped around them. I didn't try prying them or tapping them - maybe I should have. But the whole pressure switch looked very cheap and "Chinese-y."

[1958Warrior]

Thought they were all the same by reading the comp cam description:
"A vacuum reserve canister captures vacuum from your engine and stores it for your power brakes. This unit approximately DOUBLES the volume of vacuum available for your power brakes. It is recommended for cars with 14 inches of vacuum or less. Comp Cams Vacuum Canisters are made from spun aluminum, which eliminates the hazard of flaking rust particles contaminating the brake system and provides a 50% weight savings over the heavy steel cans of the past."

http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/5200/10002/-1
$65 a little more ,
The Mr.Gasket one was just the least expensive one I saw.

I'll look into it some more, Good luck on the install.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Warrior!
If that description is accurate then that could be very helpful after all!

[Coupeguy2001]

If you fried your test light, it was taking place of the pressure switch. I would guess that you need a conductor that would handle about 15 amps.
You could use a house hold light switch, and shut it off when it reaches around 110-120 PSI.
unless it is 220/volts. then you need a bigger switch.
I think you should not use a test light until you verified that it is a 120 volt light, and they are not made to handle amps, just volts.
With your high pressure switch stuck open, the test light was attempting to take the amps and complete the circuit.
Anyway, if you just take one wire, and put it onto the other wire and screw it to the one terminal, it will not shut off when the pressure gets to 120 or so. but it will run. and you will have to manually shut it off or unplug it.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so here's how Saturday ended/Sunday began:


The work was done by my brother in law alone because I'd forgotten a family thing and couldn't help. He LOVES wrenching and offered to work without me - I felt bad going but he loved it! The entire front clip is unbolted, radiator and tranny drained, hoses, shifter disconnected, shackle bolts loosened but he didn't know how to remove them.

Today began before he arrived!


I pulled the arm off the steering gear. Once he got there and my son in law, we pulled the whole sheet metal clip (doghouse) and set in on jack stands on the patio.


Drove the shackle bolts out and set the entire front suspension aside. Since we had additional help for awhile I decided to pull the bed off too:

[Dan in Pasadena]

We were going to wait til Monday ("Anal glaucoma" - I can't see my a$$ going to work tomorrow! Lol) to pull the engine because the rental yard was closed and I don't own a cherry picker....I do now! Just didn't want to eat up tomorrow morning on getting/returning it so I sprung for a Harbor Freight 2 ton model. I did manage to get 20% off though.

Tomorrow we will pull the engine & tranny, remove the steering column and -"while we're in there" - will pull the seat and gas tank and lay the cab back to access the underneath for cleaning, repairing and primer/paint. I hadn't really planned to pull the cab but there is SO little left to remove to do it! Still haven't gotten my big compressor to work and of course you can't buy the pressure switch over the counter front Harbor Freight, so I'm debating using one of those little paint gun style ones to blast the difficult spots with my small dual tank Senco compressor and wire wheeling the rest - we'll see. OR, I'll find SOMEPLACE that does sell a compressor replacement pressure switch over the counter!

All comments appreciated!
PS: No, STILL haven't found the damn Fatman instructions! I gonna call first thing in the morningand see if they will email me a set.

[Advanced Design]

Wow, that was great progress. Looking good!

[OrrieG]

Doubt you will get one over the counter, but Sears Direct will have the part, they will just need the model and serial number. When I bought stuff from them it came within 2 days from a Nevada warehouse.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks AD!

After pulling the engine/transmission tomorrow, I'm gonna remove the rear suspension for flipping the housing on top of the spring pack ala Ogre's "Truk". Since he says his IFS is a Fatman setup and his ride height looks about how I'd like I'm hoping for the same. Besides, I assume I wouldn't get that stance with lowering shackles or lowering springs(???) because my old spring pack has settled over the decades and the amount quoted would only be that much lower from a new stock spring pack, is this correct?

Question: How to cut the spring mounts off the rear ended housing without damaging it? Just eat away at it with a cutting wheel or sawzall bit by bit so I don't cut through the axle housings? The. Remake a new spring seat from...2x2 square tube?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Doubt you will get one over the counter, but Sears Direct will have the part, they will just need the model and serial number. When I bought stuff from them it came within 2 days from a Nevada warehouse.

Thanks Orrie! It's a Harbor Freight General model 60 gallon but I would THINK a Sears part for a similar sized compressor would work. That's what you're saying, right?

[Dan in Pasadena]

I've got a question for Ogre:

When you flipped your rear axle on top of the springs did you flip the shackle on top of the frame?

Like this:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=Flip

I'm thinking maybe I should. With flipping the housing it says you get 7" lower(!) but by flipping the shackle mount it nets you 5.5" lowering which sounds more reasonable because the IFS ain't gonna lower the front 7", correct?

[1958Warrior]

Anal glaucoma is spread though the web, I caught it this morning.
Your making good progress.
I used a cutoff wheel on a grinder, to remove the spring mounts.

I followed up with Ogre's suggestion and got all the U bolts plates and hardware and axle seats local at Southwest Wheel (local trailer supply here in Dallas) got everything for $25 picked up (would've been $40 shipped) Saved me A lot of $$$
You will also most likely need 2 Spring Center Bolts :
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...Redirect=N0966

I also,went ahead and drilled the spring perches to relocate them on top of the frame, for a 5.5 drop , but went ahead and installed them back in their original location, for a 7" drop. That way if 7 is too much all I have to do is unbolt and flip to raise it up 1.5" ( my bed is still off right now)


While your at it....... may find out your spring eye bushings might need to be replaced if the previous owner didn't do it when he replaced the axle.
Mine were seized from never being greased.

ebay seller has compressor switch and is located in Rowland Heights, California $17 may be able to pick it up since its local :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Swi...28b5b#shpCntId

[1958Warrior]

Any local trailer supply store should be similarly priced

axle seats $2 ea

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-3144-sp3.aspx

U-bolt kit $20

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-283-apubr3bx.aspx

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Orrie! It's a Harbor Freight General model 60 gallon but I would THINK a Sears part for a similar sized compressor would work. That's what you're saying, right?

Sears Direct link has become the Rock Auto for appliance and tool replacement parts, not just their stuff.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 1958Warrior

Anal glaucoma is spread though the web, I caught it this morning.
Your making good progress.
I used a cutoff wheel on a grinder, to remove the spring mounts.

I followed up with Ogre's suggestion and got all the U bolts plates and hardware and axle seats local at Southwest Wheel (local trailer supply here in Dallas) got everything for $25 picked up (would've been $40 shipped) Saved me A lot of $$$
You will also most likely need 2 Spring Center Bolts :
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...Redirect=N0966

I also,went ahead and drilled the spring perches to relocate them on top of the frame, for a 5.5 drop , but went ahead and installed them back in their original location, for a 7" drop. That way if 7 is too much all I have to do is unbolt and flip to raise it up 1.5" ( my bed is still off right now)


While your at it....... may find out your spring eye bushings might need to be replaced if the previous owner didn't do it when he replaced the axle.
Mine were seized from never being greased.

ebay seller has compressor switch and is located in Rowland Heights, California $17 may be able to pick it up since its local :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Swi...28b5b#shpCntId

Warrior,
Can't thank you enough for the pressure switch find. I bought it this am & asked for local pick up info. Duh...why didn't I think to go to eBay?!

In the flip hanger thread I posted a link to above it says to move the hanger 5/8" forward, did you do that? I'm wondering why that would be necessary? But it's an excellent idea to keep my options open for both a 5.5" and a 7" drop. I'll definitely do that!
If I need a spring eye bushing it'll be worn oval, right? Good reminder. I'm assuming I can grind an "X" pattern into the river head and then use a chisel to cut it off....or just grind the head off flush with the sprung hanger? But do you then just drive the rivet out with a punch or do you have to drill the body out? I always read they're a biatch to get out.

Definitely going to find a local trailer supply house for the new rearend seats and U bolts. On eBay they had a "kit" that was supposedly for a '55-59 Chevy truck and they wanted $97 plus $25 shipping. That's just a ripoff!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Orrie,
I searched Sears Direct last night after I found a compressor on the Sears site that's a virtual twin to mine but neither the part number nor the model number worked.

[1958Warrior]

I just ground the heads off and used a punch to drive them out, and yes I did move the rear spring holder 5/8" forward on top of the frame .I'll load some pics here shortly.

[1958Warrior]

I scribed a center line on the frame and on the center of the hangers, I then scribed a line 5/8" forward on the frame and placed the hanger on top , lined up on the forward scribe line clamped it down and drilled my holes.

The rear spring bushings are threaded , the bolt threads in and should move freely or move mine were seized and had to cut them with a torch then drive them out



http://www.autozone.com/parts/suspen...65_10195_1685/

The front rear spring bushings are brass and have a pin that goes through and yes the bushing will be egg shaped and wallerd out

[_Ogre]

i believe mr48 has the ''most delays are caused by while i'm at it...''

I'm gonna remove the rear suspension for flipping the housing on top of the spring pack ala Ogre's "Truk". Since he says his IFS is a Fatman setup and his ride height looks about how I'd like I'm hoping for the same.

i did not flip the spring hanger nor use lowering shackles, only removed the 2 short overload springs
you'll need to c-notch the frame and since your still using the rear shackle; you need to reinforce the frame by adding some width
i did a 3'' notch, i recommend a little more but it's hard to do without putting a hump in the bed
58warrior bought everything at his local trailer supply for $25, i obviously over spent by $4
i reused the shock mounts and bought new plates, spring perches and u-bolts. i'd also recommend rebuilding the shackles while they apart

Question: How to cut the spring mounts off the rear ended housing without damaging it? Just eat away at it with a cutting wheel or sawzall bit by bit so I don't cut through the axle housings? The. Remake a new spring seat from...2x2 square tube?

yes, just use the cutting wheel and grinding disk
while the 2x2 square tube fits my low cost mantra, they were only a couple bucks at a trailer supply

what axle are you using? now is a good time to swap out for a better gear if your running stock
gen 2 camero will slide right in and match the fatman 5x5 spindles; my 86 trans am rearend has disks, posi and 3.27 gear

In the flip hanger thread I posted a link to above it says to move the hanger 5/8" forward,

i did not flip the hanger, it may put your rear too low and need more c-notch
as is when you get everything together the front will be higher, it took a full year for the front springs to settle down to ride height
don't cut any coils out for at least a year... let them settle in or you will be too low (if that's possible)

On eBay they had a "kit" that was supposedly for a '55-59 Chevy truck and they wanted $97 plus $25 shipping. That's just a ripoff!

most any ''kit'' is a ripoff, that's someone else doing your legwork and shopping for you

if you haven't figured it out yet...
you've already mentioned tilting the cab; ''while your at it'' it make sense, it just adds to the time your down but no time like the present

you need all new brake lines as you've removed the front and rear lines already
the only thing left is a few feet in the middle; might as well do the master cylinder now
though a few use the stock mc

a new column of course... your choice new many hundreds or used gm; either can be had with many options

you shouldn't need any drive shaft mods since your just lowering the rear

have fun... working under a timeline is a little un-nerving, i have a dd too so i was in no rush

[1958Warrior]

Correction I moved the hanger 3/4" forward not 5/8", (Just did as the tape said), I also moved the cross brace back to another hole in the frame . I have a copy of the no limit tape, it shows (on a short bed) moving the cross brace back to another mounting hole on the frame, which I went and measured on mine and the hole is 3-3/4" back.
See in the first pic there is another hole a little further back , and I had already ground off the rivets for the cross brace.