Battery charging problem.

[Pappyx3!]

Remember a test light is only going to tell you if voltage is present or not. It won't tell you if you have sufficient voltage. Just a thought if you don't have a buddy to borrow a digital meter from, most of the retail parts places will let you borrow tools with a refundable deposit.

Keep us informed!

Pappyx4!

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Pappyx3!

Remember a test light is only going to tell you if voltage is present or not. It won't tell you if you have sufficient voltage. Just a thought if you don't have a buddy to borrow a digital meter from, most of the retail parts places will let you borrow tools with a refundable deposit.

Keep us informed!

Pappyx4!

That's right! I keep forgetting about that, maybe auto zone would loan one out...

[Pappyx3!]

I was going to do a post to explain how these externally regulated systems work, but I have been bogged down lately. So this might help, go to the Delco Remy website, www.delcoremy.com, look up part number 20169, scroll to the bottom of the page there are 2 technical bulletins, the second has a basic diagram that will be helpful. Especially in further discussion. WARNING they give instructions on how to full field the alternator. Do not try this, unless you understand what you are doing. It can damage the alternator and or the regulator.
Pappyx4!

[Isaiah92260]

Hello everyone. I apologize for the long wait, life sometimes throws me unexpected plans and work as well, I ended up pulling off the ground wire and also did the power wire as well after, and both times the motor shut off. So I know for sure its the alternator and regulator. I know it's best to know 100% what the problem is, but I think it's best in general to just convert the whole system to a modern internally regulated alternator. I only drive the truck to work, so I'll just maintain the life of the battery until I take it to a shop the install a modern alternator for me, I don't know how to re wire the truck, and I don't want to risk any damages in the process when I want to do it myself. Thanks everyone for your replys on here

[lil hoodlum]

Any new updates?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by lil hoodlum

Any new updates?

A little, thank you for asking. Money is tight and havnt been able to invest in a boot meter, one day I disconnect the ground wire while the truck was running and it shut off, I even tried again with the Power wire just to be sure if I was t supposed to disconnect the ground. Either way, the truck shut off both times. Considering that I want to continue Driving this truck as a daily driver, I think it's best that I save up and buy a 12si Alternator. I even found a 100amp 10si 3-wire AlternTor that I am thinking about buying for $65, I found how to's on wiring the truck to not use the voltage regulator, but I found 2 different ways to do it online so I'm trying to figure out the proper way for a 3-wire alternator. Iim gonna buy a new born relay as well. It's just a littler nerve racking because I have wires that were Micky mouse and I don't know what they are all for because the guy that owned it before me, totally neglected the truck and didn't do anything right.

[Mackie]

Disconnecting the battery cable while running is the wrong way to test the alternator and may cause damage. Please get a volt, ohm meter. They're only 8 bucks for an entry level one. Test positive/negative at the battery at idle and when you rev it to 2K or so, watching for voltage increase.

10si 3 wire's are a simple hook up.

8ga. wire from bat. + to big terminal, a short jumper from terminal # 2 to the bat term. on the alt. and a wire from key-on source (like ign. switch) thru the idiot light to term #1.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Mackie

Disconnecting the battery cable while running is the wrong way to test the alternator and may cause damage. Please get a volt, ohm meter. They're only 8 bucks for an entry level one. Test positive/negative at the battery at idle and when you rev it to 2K or so, watching for voltage increase.

10si 3 wire's are a simple hook up.

8ga. wire from bat. + to big terminal, a short jumper from terminal # 2 to the bat term. on the alt. and a wire from key-on source (like ign. switch) thru the idiot light to term #1.

I need to ASAP! I've been putting it off too much cuz of no time, I'm gonna make the point this week. Thank you for that diagram! Is that jumper similar to those that Brothers truck sells? I would definitely invest in this, do I have to take off the voltage regulator since the new alternator would be internal and don't need the regulator and would of course have the option to splice the wires there.

[Mackie]

You can remove the regulator but with the pics you posted of your wiring I don't think I would reuse any of it. I'm not sure what jumper Brothers offers. I wired my 10si from scratch. It's not much more than some hunks of wire and a few terminals and a pair of crimpers to invest in.

[63ChevC10]

Not sure if this'll help any or not, but thought I'd throw it out there anyway. I have a 63 that was doing the same thing a couple years back. Showed good voltage at the battery when it was running, but the charging light was on dim all the time. And my battery would go dead. Turned out it was a bad voltage regulator in my case. I used it as an opportunity to go to an internally regulated alternator and haven't had any trouble since.

Good luck man.

Jerry

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by 63ChevC10

Not sure if this'll help any or not, but thought I'd throw it out there anyway. I have a 63 that was doing the same thing a couple years back. Showed good voltage at the battery when it was running, but the charging light was on dim all the time. And my battery would go dead. Turned out it was a bad voltage regulator in my case. I used it as an opportunity to go to an internally regulated alternator and haven't had any trouble since.

Good luck man.

Jerry

Thanks for you replying, that's very helpful, I have a 63 also but with a 67 I6, I guess it's probably just about time to start doing upgrades on the electrical. But light stays on dim also.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Mackie

You can remove the regulator but with the pics you posted of your wiring I don't think I would reuse any of it. I'm not sure what jumper Brothers offers. I wired my 10si from scratch. It's not much more than some hunks of wire and a few terminals and a pair of crimpers to invest in.

Okay then, I was going to just cross the wiring anyways, I was asking about the jumpers because of the picture. Yes the regulator and horn relay like too old and worn out to reuse.

[Isaiah92260]

What do you guys think about this Alternator? It's a 10si 3-wire, does anyone have experience with their quality of alternators?
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4516-h...FYQ8aQodowwHFQ

[Isaiah92260]

I also found this one for $65, in a little skeptical now because that's a damn good price! For a105amp!

[Mackie]

Yeah, I'd be suspicious too. Do you rally need 100+ amp alternator? Big amp sound system? Winch? Off road lights?

I got a cheapie Autozone stock replacement for a 74 Caprice or something which is only like 63 amp but my biggest draws are H4 halogen headlights and the Thrift heater fan. I think I paid $65 and it had a short term warranty.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Mackie

Yeah, I'd be suspicious too. Do you rally need 100+ amp alternator? Big amp sound system? Winch? Off road lights?

I got a cheapie Autozone stock replacement for a 74 Caprice or something which is only like 63 amp but my biggest draws are H4 halogen headlights and the Thrift heater fan. I think I paid $65 and it had a short term warranty.

You have a point there. I plan on getting a pretty decent sound system someday and replace my whole wire harness and get halogen and led tail lights. That's only just about what I need. That's about the use of a 100amp or a little less no?

[vince1]

Go to Rockauto and check out their CS130 for an 89 Pontiac Safari. which is the more modern version of the 10si. It charges much better at low RPM and at 105 amps has all the capacity you will ever need. You would also need the PLIS connector. L to lamp and S to sense voltage point or put it to the output post.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by vince1

Go to Rockauto and check out their CS130 for an 89 Pontiac Safari. which is the more modern version of the 10si. It charges much better at low RPM and at 105 amps has all the capacity you will ever need. You would also need the PLIS connector. L to lamp and S to sense voltage point or put it to the output post.

Hank you! Which one do you recommend that I should get? And are they 3-wire?

[Isaiah92260]

What does PL and FS stand for on the 2 other connections?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by vince1

Go to Rockauto and check out their CS130 for an 89 Pontiac Safari. which is the more modern version of the 10si. It charges much better at low RPM and at 105 amps has all the capacity you will ever need. You would also need the PLIS connector. L to lamp and S to sense voltage point or put it to the output post.

PLIS Connector? Where do I find that and how do I wire that to my motor? I still have to cross the wiring at the voltage regulator and the remove the regulator when I install the alternator.

[vince1]

I just pick a nice one from the auto wreckers when I need one. Then the connector comes with it. If it is a newer one with the serpentine pulley I exchange it with a pulley from an older alternator. 15/16" box end wrench and I forget what size allen wrench does the job. Connectors I believe can be obtained from local auto parts stores.

I am not really up on it but as far as I know the P (or pulse?) could be used for a tach. The I or F labeling is sometimes interchanged. I've seen both labelled for the one terminal at one alternator I looked at. Maybe and a big maybe, an ignition wire sometimes goes there. Different GM cars have different numbers of wires running to them (alternators) so I am not sure what that is about either.

I do know that the few times I have used them and hooked the lamp wire to L, and in simplified terms the S to the output post, and the output post to the load/battery; they perform marvelously.

[vince1]

If retrieving one from the auto wreckers be aware that there are many different mounting configurations. I look for the 6.6" across and 180 degrees opposite so they fit the same way as our older alternators. That one, or those listed for the 89 Pontiac Safari on the Rock auto site will do that. Somewhere on the Rockauto site they probably also list the connector.

[DaddyOh]

If you're out in the desert, just run up to yucca and go to Ace alternator... they will be able to sort you out very quickly...honest and good guys up there.

[vince1]

Agreed, quickest and probably cheapest way will be to have the pros look after you. Carry on your merry way and forget about it.

But if you like going through all the pain and probably mistakes in learning how to do it like this idiot has done, that also has its rewards. Once you get through the process, a duff alternator in your old truck most likely will never scare you again.

[vince1]

The way this started with me was that my trusty original 35 amp Prestolite alternator and regulator on my 64 Rambler, after having traveled 145K miles, were finally worn out or rusted. A regulator alone, if even the correct one, was going to cost me over $180.

Figured out how to wire in a 10si. Didn't like it because the light would come on at really low idle. Tried another, the same. Sold one, still have the first one (spare). Maybe it will go into my truck when I do away with the regulator. Put a CS130 in the Rambler and now the light is out before the engine starts. I think the Rambler crank pulley may be slightly smaller in dia. causing the light to come on at low idle when the 10si was in there.

I helped another fellow by installing said fantastic alternator in his car and he is equally pleased with its performance.

Saw a CS 130 in a Mustang at a car show that won best muscle car. I asked the guy why the GM alternator. He said his friend, who owned an alternator shop, wired his car and used that alternator.

Isaiah, I think you are a little over hyped on this thing, as I was when it all started for me. A one wire like has been suggested in your new thread, might be the easiest for you. Whichever you decide on it is still just an alternator and they all do the same job in charging the battery. we'll help when it comes to the nitty gritty of hooking it up.