67 Short Stepper Rebel Son

[Hammerforhire]

Looking good ! I'll keep watching the progress. It keeps me motivated to work on mine.

[srvhemi]

running at this point. but this is still in mock up stage. plug wires, air cleaner to be changed, reroute wires, clean up engine bay, install new driveshaft and coupler, steering column from IDIDIT to be installed also. but great to hear it run for the first time, and every time since then. top end kit will also be installed (need more power). so intake manifold, aluminum heads, and nicer valve covers to come. and yes, that is a new carb.

[srvhemi]

these are the rims/ tires i chose. hindsight is always 20/20. these were the first thing i bought for the truck. i got a deal on the rims and the rubber. and they will look good on the truck, but i see so many of these trucks with these rims on them. and i wanted the truck to b very unique. you win some, you lose some.

[srvhemi]

wood bed. i think it needs to be stained darker, then lots of clear, make it look glassy. what do you guys think?

[srvhemi]

anyone looking for an original cluster?

[srvhemi]

steering wheel

[srvhemi]

HAMMERFORHIRE: I can always use extra motivation too. Im glad to assist you in that. I constantly get discouraged because its going so slow, but it is getting there. I was born in Salinas. i dont remember any of it, but i saw thats where you are from, so i figured i would mention it. keep at it man, it will get there. "change what you can, fruck what you cant". I tell myself everyday that I am the only thing holding me back.

[summitflier]

Wood bed is looking sweet. What stain is that?

[srvhemi]

currently needing body work

[srvhemi]

Originally Posted by summitflier

Wood bed is looking sweet. What stain is that?

its minwax red mahogany

[srvhemi]

I would like suggestions on making my truck a posi rear. I dont like one wheel burnouts. I have looked into limited slip diffs and Im down with spending 400 to get it, and even the extra 100 to get new ring and pinion. I would like to know from you guys out there what the best/ cheapest way to make it a posi is. would it be cheaper to buy the parts and have someone build it, or buy a complete rear end

[srvhemi]

My truck came with front disc brakes and 5x5 lug pattern.I have no way of knowing what they came off of. the rims i bought will not sit flush against the rotor. the shoulder on the rotor is too big in diameter to let the rim suck all the way flush against the rotor. does anybody have any experience with this issue. I was thinking about putting those wheel spacers in between the rim and the rotor (seems cheapest and easiest correction) but im sure some of you guys have encountered this and probably have a better solution.the gap (where the rim stops is about 1/4 of an inch) from sitting flush.

[summitflier]

Are only your front wheels 5x5?
Not sure what size your disc's are, but the factory ones should fit 15 inch wheels.
If you have 13inch or bigger, usually you need bigger wheels.
Not sure about the spacers. I suppose it might work. Cheaper than wheels anyway.

I had my rear end rebuilt. The ring and pinion were in pretty good shape, so I didn't have to change them out. However I was swapping to 5x5 axles, so I needed new bearings and seals. Also I wanted to go posi (I got a Moser unit that matched my 3:73 gears. I didn't have a press for the bearings, so it was about $450 for the posi, and about $250 for the labor, maybe another $50 in bearings, seals, shims, and a gasket. I've seen Ford 9inch units for sale for less than $1000. Usually that's the no-frills price. If you wants specific gearing, and posi, and trailing arm seats that usually costs a little more. I haven't seen many 12 bolt rebuilders, but I'm sure there are some out there.

[swamp rat]

Your doing some noce work!

[Xeen]

It sounds like those wheels have a custom offset because they shouldn't be interfering with the rotor, that's not a common issue with a standard offset.

[srvhemi]

I barely just started my build thread, and was getting close to being able to send it to paint, and last night i got in a car accident. so now i have to make dealing with it my priority. so i wont be able to post for a little while. i wasnt injured, and neither was anyone else. but for anyone tuning in to see progress on my truck, just wanted to yas know. thanks

[summitflier]

Making good progress here.

[RenoKeene]

Originally Posted by srvhemi

I barely just started my build thread, and was getting close to being able to send it to paint, and last night i got in a car accident. so now i have to make dealing with it my priority. so i wont be able to post for a little while. i wasnt injured, and neither was anyone else. but for anyone tuning in to see progress on my truck, just wanted to yas know. thanks

Sorry to hear that but glad everyone is OK. Your truck will still be there when you are ready to work on it again. Keep this in mind, when the trucks done and you're cruzin down the road it all will be worth it, believe me.
Here is a shot of mine for motivation...and I built it just like you are.

[srvhemi]

TO RENOKEENE:

Thanks a bunch man. I appreciate you taking the time to check my thread out. But thanks sooo much more for the words of encouragement and links to your threads. I can't tell you enough how much I really appreciated that. I was really down today, as my project hit another bump in the road. Seing the pics of your BEE AY YOO TI FULL truck makes me remember that I will get there someday. And all your DIY garage cheats will be coming in handy in the not too distant future.

Thanks again, Sir.

[RenoKeene]

Thanks brother. Remember when you get down you can always log on to this place and we'll cheer you up.

[swamp rat]

Sorry to heart about your accident, Hang in there and keep pressing on!

[BossHogg69]

As for the Boss wheels not sitting flush on the rotor, there are MANY threads on this site regarding that problem. Your options are turning down the o.d. of the rotor snout or running a spacer. Just search Boss 338 on this site and you'll see. I bought some 18" Boss 338's and I opted to have the rotor snout turned down at a machine shop, after that they fit, but the center cap won't snap on the wheel due to the dust cap sticking through the center hole too far.

[srvhemi]

Hey Guys,
We got into filling the drip rail this past weekend. I had done my research, on the threads here on our forum, and elsewhere. We decided to use a two part, self leveling seam sealer by 3M. It is sandable and paintable. We did not fill it completely. We filled it in enough that the seam is completely covered. It laid out smooth and looks pretty good. The stuff was pretty thin coming out of the applicator gun. On the top part (front top of cab above windshield was super easy. All we did was run a steady bead along the rail, working from middle toward door), then did the same on the other side. Where it got tricky was where it went from horizontal (above the door) to vertical (the radies where it turns toward the ground and goes to the bottom of the door glass (by the where the gas filler neck comes out). We got complete coverage there, bt that **** flows pretty fast. One lesson learned that would be valuable to anyone not experienced in doing this is to remove the tape after you get it all applied, and before it dries. So now its all setup and looks pretty good, but my question is: since i didnt fill it in all the way up to flush with the edge of the drip rail (and the material is clear), should i get it painted, then do like a skim coat to build it up a little more with a black seam sealer (like to finish it off and make it look great, instead of just good? I would appreciate any suggestions. For anyone thinking about it, it does sand nicely once its cured.

[srvhemi]

Sorry guys, I can't figure out how to make the pictures in their original orientation on the site here. I tried rotating them on my computer, and uploading them in different ways, and I can't seem to make it right. Hope you can turn your heads.

[srvhemi]

another