just need to rage

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Malo83

'68c' it's been a while since I replaced my fuel pump but I went out and looked under the hood and i'm wondering what the difficulty is, mine sits between the smog pump and motor mount, bolts are a straight shot and fuel lines, I do remember the cam actuating rod gave me fits keeping it the block while mounting the new pump but some white grease held it up long enough to get it mounted, might want to bump the motor to get on the flat spot on the cam so the rod isn't trying to push down on the pump, good luck with the smog

Your right, bolts are right there and I unbolted it from the top using a wobbly and a extension. The problem Im having is holding the pump against the plate, pump rod is on the backside of the cam, and starting the bolts. I have to install it from the bottom and I cant get both hands in there with the smog pump in the way. and I cant just rest it in place and try starting the bolts from the top cuz the pump wont cooperate. Ive been wrenching on these older cars and trucks long enough to know when I need a second pair of hands.

My CEL light is on with a code 54 which leads to a mixture control solenoid which Ive had a hard time finding a replacement but Im hoping that fixing the PO`s hatchet job on this particular connector will fix it. Otherwise Im just going to have my buddy "smog" it for me. Ive had a couple other smogger squares but never had to mess with the emissions of anything I`ve owned in the 23yrs since I bought my first car. It`s a slow process with me since I dont have all the tools I need to diagnose everything but Im getting there.

[Jake Wade]

Roll the engine over until the fuel pump rod is at its farthest distance from the fuel pump arm, this will help you installing the pump.

[Gregski]

solid rant, that's why I bought a pre smog era truck 1975 and older in California will do, that way you could remove all the SMOG stuff off of it, I'm just saying if one wanted to for off road use that is

by the way I had a 1985 Blazer - by far the worst vehicle I ever owned, mid 80's cars had electronic carburetors the worst of the worst bro

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Roll the engine over until the fuel pump rod is at its farthest distance from the fuel pump arm, this will help you installing the pump.

That's an important part of the trick^^^

There is a bolt hole in the front of the block that goes all the way through to the fuel pump rod area. There's short 3/8" bolt in it as a plug. Remove this bolt and put a longer one in its place.
Push the fuel pump rod up against the cam and rotate the engine till the pump eccentric low spot is against the pump pushrod. This lets the pump rod seat as far back as possible in the cavity. Just like Jake said.
Snug the temporary long bolt down against the push rod and it'll hold the push rod in place until you install the pump. Then you don't have to fight with the (&*#$^% pump pushrod.
Be sure to remove the long bolt and put the short one back in when you're done.

The M4ME wasn't bad to deal with till you started removing emissions equipment.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

pump rod is on the backside of the cam, and starting the bolts.

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Roll the engine over until the fuel pump rod is at its farthest distance from the fuel pump arm, this will help you installing the pump.

See above. Already made sure it was on the backside of the cam. I appreciate the input but like I said this isnt my first time. Just my first time fighting a damn fuel pump. The fuel rod wasnt the problem. It was getting the bolts in the pump while holding the pump. Needed extra hands.

Originally Posted by hatzie

That's an important part of the trick^^^

There is a bolt hole in the front of the block that goes all the way through to the fuel pump rod area. There's short 3/8" bolt in it as a plug. Remove this bolt and put a longer one in its place.
Push the fuel pump rod up against the cam and rotate the engine till the pump eccentric low spot is against the pump pushrod. This lets the pump rod seat as far back as possible in the cavity. Just like Jake said.
Snug the temporary long bolt down against the push rod and it'll hold the push rod in place until you install the pump. Then you don't have to fight with the (&*#$^% pump pushrod.
Be sure to remove the long bolt and put the short one back in when you're done.

The M4ME wasn't bad to deal with till you started removing emissions equipment.

Ive used that trick many times but cant do it on this one because the smog pump bracket is bolted to those holes and I dont have enough tools to deal with it. Im not removing parts for this. Its just a fuel pump. Just never did one on a smogger. I got it on there but turns out the aftermarket pump was clocked slightly different and my hard line to the carb wont line up. Im going to have to cut the line and run a small section of rubber hose.

My truck actually runs really good. Just has the CEL so I cant smog it. running on a temp tag for now. Every time I think Im going to have time to work on the code something comes up. Tranny went bad, took almost a month by the time I figured out what I was going to do, pull it out, have it rebuilt, put it back in. Only been running again about a week and the !@#$% fuel pump goes. I wish I was a check writer so I wouldnt have to deal with this crap anymore but I cant justify paying someone to do a job I can do. turns out I can swap a tranny but cant install a fuel pump, lol. Im seriously consider selling the truck but then logic sets in and Id just be getting someone elses crap. At least I know my tranny is good. Who knows what Id end up with. A good friend of mine told me the other day "Improper tooling = Struggle no matter who is doing the job". That about nails it.

[motornut]

You could remove the pass inner fender,sitting on the tire works for me.
I figure people stop spending maintenance money on old cars/trucks just hoping they last.
Then we buy something that needs a rash of work to be dependable and safe again.
Or they fix it cheap cheap to sell it,turns out wrong.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by motornut

You could remove the pass inner fender,sitting on the tire works for me.
I figure people stop spending maintenance money on old cars/trucks just hoping they last.
Then we buy something that needs a rash of work to be dependable and safe again.
Or they fix it cheap cheap to sell it,turns out wrong.

Fuel pump is on. It would have been easier to just remove the smog pump but I didn't want to start tearing the truck apart. Just took a second pair of hands. Unfortunately the autozone pump is clocked slightly different and the hard line to the carb won't line up. Easy fix though. Going to cut the line and use a small section of rubber hose.

[andrewmp6]

Sometimes i think one part fails and others get jealous and start to fail too.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Sometimes i think one part fails and others get jealous and start to fail too.

Makes perfect sense to me.

[kalbert]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Sometimes i think one part fails and others get jealous and start to fail too.

That ain't far from the truth. Replace a leaky water pump, next thing you know the intake gaskets are leaking, replace those and then the heater core, and so on. Every time you patch a leak the next weak link gets exposed!

[HipToBeSquared]

I feel your pain, I have gotten away from the old stuff as well, I sold my 78 Big 10 454 last year. I loved it but I don't miss it...at all. But after I sold the 78 I bought a 95 4wd Blazer, it was getting close to winter and I needed 4wd out here in the country. I paid $1200 for it and I bet I've put over $2000 into this thing within the last year. I'm keeping it now even when I can get a nicer, newer daily driver.
Back in October I was on my way to work and the Blazer died on me. Had it towed home, a rubber fuel line had blown. Upon looking at the hose everything was rusty up by the tank, I'm in the rust belt. I had to drop the tank, it was rusted so I wound up replacing the tank, pump, sender and fuel lines, almost $400 worth. Got it running, went 5 miles down the road and it dies again, wtf! Had it towed home again. I figured it was related to what I had repaired. Turns out it was a bad coil, so while I replaced it I went ahead and did a complete tune up, about another $350.
All of this was a couple weeks after I replaced the radiator and hoses after the radiator sprung a leak. It seemed every weekend I was working on it, blown brake lines, bad vehicle speed sensor, screaming blower motor, new alternator, etc. But it is paid for and no one can take it away because of a missed payment.

[slotard]

Yeah, it takes quite a bit of repair (if DIY) to equal a payment, and you can get away with letting it sit for a couple months if you don't need to use it... it took me a while to replace the steering column on mine.

[68c10owner]

I guess I cant expect much since I only paid $1000 for the truck. Not very often you can daily drive a $1000 truck these days and not have it be a total pos. It runs good even with the CEL on. PO lowered it wrong so it is riding on the bump stops but I`ll address that soon enough. Interior isnt bad but worn and the body is super clean. Just neglected. It is my only vehicle so I cant really have it down but since Im not working right now I`ve been taking the wife to work and keeping her car. Should have it back on the road tomorrow. Hopefully the drivetrain stays together long enough for me to update it all. I want to replace the engine and rearend at some point.

[Super_Dave]

My 74 C20 is my daily driver. Will never own a newer vehicle the rest of my life. I put thousands into my wife's 98 Exploder since it was a year old. Could have paid for it three times over with constant repairs. Swore off all 4WD's because of all the additional repair needs.

Had fuel pump issues with my 74 International Stepside. Put in an electrical fuel pump and didn't look back. Couldn't find parts and the ones I did find were insanely expensive. So I sold it and bought my 74 C20. Spent a little more for the "right" truck ($2,500), knowing that in the long run, it would save me a lot of money.

I live in a state that doesn't require DEQ on 74 and older, so that was a huge criteria for me. Spent a lot of time looking for just the right truck that had good bones and didn't need work on the "expensive" areas. Good TH350 with a TransGo and runs like a champ. Pulled the tired 350 and put my rebuilt 350 from the International in and it runs like a scalded cat.

Thankfully I only have 3:73 gears and not 4:10's. Will make due until I can afford something in the 3:08-3:23 range. In the interim, I enjoy every throaty drive I take, loose mirrors, non-working radio, rusty rockers and all. I will eventually get it where I want it.

You will get yours there too. It's like eating an elephant... one bite at a time. And don't be afraid to ask for help... I get no's a lot, but that one yes goes a long way to building a friendship.

Hang in there!

[slotard]

Can you get gears that tall for a 14FF? I thought the only options were 3.73, 4.10, 4.56. Or are you swapping to 5 or 6 lug?

Mine's 350/350/4.10 on 30" tires, it certainly doesn't enjoy high speed.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

My 74 C20 is my daily driver. Will never own a newer vehicle the rest of my life. I put thousands into my wife's 98 Exploder since it was a year old. Could have paid for it three times over with constant repairs. Swore off all 4WD's because of all the additional repair needs.

Had fuel pump issues with my 74 International Stepside. Put in an electrical fuel pump and didn't look back. Couldn't find parts and the ones I did find were insanely expensive. So I sold it and bought my 74 C20. Spent a little more for the "right" truck ($2,500), knowing that in the long run, it would save me a lot of money.

I live in a state that doesn't require DEQ on 74 and older, so that was a huge criteria for me. Spent a lot of time looking for just the right truck that had good bones and didn't need work on the "expensive" areas. Good TH350 with a TransGo and runs like a champ. Pulled the tired 350 and put my rebuilt 350 from the International in and it runs like a scalded cat.

Thankfully I only have 3:73 gears and not 4:10's. Will make due until I can afford something in the 3:08-3:23 range. In the interim, I enjoy every throaty drive I take, loose mirrors, non-working radio, rusty rockers and all. I will eventually get it where I want it.

You will get yours there too. It's like eating an elephant... one bite at a time. And don't be afraid to ask for help... I get no's a lot, but that one yes goes a long way to building a friendship.

Hang in there!

A electric pump would have been easier but Im recently lost my job and havent got my unemployment yet and kids to buy christmas presents for so I had to do the cheapest route possible. I just have a hard time with this truck because I sold all of my good tools a while ago because I didnt have a need for them at the time and now Im having to buy cheaper replacements and trying to work on this thing with minimal tools sucks. I dont realyl have any friends up this way and none of my frineds from my home town is going to make the hour drive to help me and the one guy I know up here who would help me and has in the past owns a shop and we arent close enough for him to come by on his off time to help me out for free. Im 40yrs old and have been working on cars and trucks since I was 13yrs old. Im not good with smog stuff and electrical but there isnt much I cant do mechanically and more I can do on my own but sometimes I do need a second pair of hands.

[USSkoval]

Originally Posted by slotard

Can you get gears that tall for a 14FF? I thought the only options were 3.73, 4.10, 4.56. Or are you swapping to 5 or 6 lug?

Mine's 350/350/4.10 on 30" tires, it certainly doesn't enjoy high speed.

There was a 3.23 but it is not very common.

[Super_Dave]

3.23 are rare. 3.42 is readily available. Still less expensive than a 4sp automatic swap. When the time comes, I may have to go 3.42's.