1965 C10 Stepside working on her **England**

[[JP]]

ohh and another question, does anyone know what's this off? I want to use them but the internal bits that hold the bulb are completely gone!

[[JP]]

(UPDATE - done a search after writing this and seen how the wiper is mounted, once I manage to get it off I'll fabricate a patch and weld it in)

[[JP]]

Been busy today.... and got good news yesterday, my NOVA letter (legal doc required to register the truck) got here! not bad.. only 2,5 weeks after landing! considering there was christmas and new year in between, i think that's pretty awesome!

so.. jobs of the day..
First was to be sure the wire I was thinking that does the blinking was the right one (as intend to connect the orange turn signals)
So far that I found an old motorbike turn signal in the garage and hooked it up.. sure enough when I turned the stalk...it was flashing bright orange. one job sorted.



Just need to figure what turn signals I have so I can get the same as they are all corroded.
but meanwhile I'll be driving with the brake lights being turn signals as well



Then was time to sort the wiper motor coming off the bulkhead.
So, got the motor out.. and now thinking of how to fix it. To be honest, I can't be bothered to weld a patch on there, first because its really confined space to cut and weld and second because it will take me a considerable amount of time, so I'll leave it to sort it properly in the summer when its nice and warm and I can work outside without freezing my nuts off.

So for now I'll drill 4 holes on the bracket, 4 on the bulkhead and bolt it together. I've checked and the bolts I have will have clearance to then mount the motor back on the bracket..





Also, very chuffed with finding out the interior light works! I dont know how half the switches work and this twist to turn thing is new to me!
So I started taking the interior light apart to make sure there was wires there then playing around with the wires behind the switch i turned it.... and there was light!!!



what other knobs work by twisting?
my headlights knob I can pull, and that's how I turn headlights on....and today found if i twist to the left it turns interior light on.... is it supposed to do anything else?
twist to the right and might turn main beam on?

and talking about main beam... this is what I have, the previous owner done this for some reason.. anyone have any idea why? I'm scared of plugging it to the floor switch in case the truck goes up in flames! hahahaha



spent the rest of the day tracing wires.. loom looks original but there's some wires dangling that I dont know what they are for... might start a different thread with that.

[[JP]]

put this on another thread, but thought of adding it to here in case someone looks for it.

Hi all, wonder if anyone can help me here..
New to me 65/66 Stepside C10...

I'm looking at the wiring as the main beam is not working, there's a loop in the connector for some reason...
But anyway, decided to check the wiring to see if it was still the original.. you know, see if the colors on the plugs matched the wiring diagrams... well, to my surprise it kind of does! ok.. there's some wires that have been cut and lead no where (like where the horn supposed to be etc..) but what's puzzling me is it looks inverted??

Let me explain... So I've found this wiring diagram online:


If we zoom on the plug that comes from the engine bay (just above the fusebox) we have this:
on the second row from bottom, from left to right,
Black - red - tan - brown
and then just above purple - 2 light blue wires

However, when I looked at the plug, from inside the cab, mine looks like this, exactly as if it was inverted, as i look at the plug I can see, on the plug, from left to right:

an empty space(where brown should be) - tan - red - thin black
and above 2 light blue wires - purple



wtf??? am I being stupid here? why is it inverted???


ohh and here's a photo of the loop on my dimmer connector, any idea why the previous owner might have done this?




thanks for any advice!
JP

[Ta2Don]

Logic tells me the jumper wire points to a bad dimmer switch… jumper was put in place to allow the headlights to work…

Did you ever find the dipstick???

[Paul Y]

JP, not sure if you worked it out but the thing attached to the wiper motor is the washer pump. If youa re having issues with the motor being slow and not parking properly try taking it off of the wiper. I had a similar issue with mine and it ended up being the pump full of dust making the wiper motor very sluggish and stopping short of the parking spot.

Took it off and...Ta da! all works as intended. I have a new original washer pump if you are in need.

P.

[[JP]]

Originally Posted by Ta2Don

Logic tells me the jumper wire points to a bad dimmer switch… jumper was put in place to allow the headlights to work…

Did you ever find the dipstick???

yes I kind of figured there could have been something with the switch so I put one in the order with LMC as it was a cheap part...

and yes did find the dipstick in the end ahaha! tucked away on the right hand side of the engine

Originally Posted by Paul Y

JP, not sure if you worked it out but the thing attached to the wiper motor is the washer pump. If youa re having issues with the motor being slow and not parking properly try taking it off of the wiper. I had a similar issue with mine and it ended up being the pump full of dust making the wiper motor very sluggish and stopping short of the parking spot.

Took it off and...Ta da! all works as intended. I have a new original washer pump if you are in need.

P.

Hi, well the reason why i took the wiper motor out was because it was parking halfway on the windscreen, but wipers were going down when turning it on.
When taking it out then found it had rusted out.

I worked out I have a 2 speed motor with a washer pump on it, but havent figured out yet what hoses go were, but I intend it to test it tomorrow with some wires connected directed to the battery and hoses into a plastic bottle or something, to see what sucks water and what spits out...
If my washer pump is broken I'll definitely take you on that Paul, another thing I would like to get is the original switch and knob... but its something like 80 quid out of LMC.. found one on ebay for 20 quid, so might get that one and get a mate to bring it over from the US in 5 weeks time.

what I have at the moment is just a flick switch...

tomorrow is a big day, will be on the truck the whole day as there's no rain forecast, would like to fix the wiper motor bracket, and start running the wiring for the front indicators, etc..

[Hansome]

Welcome!!

Good to see another stepper here in the UK......

Let the fun begin!,

[[JP]]

well.. what a positive day it has been!!
Spend about 5h on the truck!

wiper motor is back in place with my bodge job of bolting it to the bulkhead till the summer when I'll TIG weld a plate on the bulkhead, got a template made already and all...
and.... the wipers now park in the correct place!! Wooorraahhhh!!!



also found the holes for the washer hoses and routed it all


Dont know exactly how to test the washer pump, as I only have a simple on/off switch I cant rely on it to test the pump.. but tried a few combinations and I think I can hear the pump clicking but not working... Paul, might take you up on that pump you have.
Does anyone know between which blades I have to put a wire to recreate/mimic the push button function to squirt water?

Then moved on to turn signals!

Did a few tests using the motorbike light attached to the rear light, like on the photos above and did the following:

with no brake pressed and RH turn on:
LH brake red
RH brake flashing
RH turn flashing

with brake pressed:
LH brake bright red
RH brake flash
RH turn flash

does this mean I won't need to run the wire from the brake switch? (I found the switch) or is it a case that once I disconnect the second wire from the rear light to the turn signal, the brake light will stop working?
Stop working in the sense that it will stop flashing but also stop being bright red when pedal pressed?

and on a plus note, I followed the diagram and put a spade connector on the plug in the engine bay and got front turn signals working! (again using the bike light)
So on that photo, where it's connected turns the left turn signal on (flashing)
the one above turns the right turn signal on
and the one to the left of that connector turns them steady - parking lights, which is the first stop when pulling the lights switch, goes off once i pull another stop which turns headlights on



So considering the above,
- I can run 2 wires from each of the front turn signals to that connector and then earth the bulbs to the bonnet
- And connect all 4 wires from all 4 turn signals to the parking light connector correct? just so I can get all 4 turn signals on if I ever need to. or even then had a flasher to the system and get hazards on

[mjh1965]

JP the light switch is also a dimmer switch for the dash lights . Also the the switch on the floor is the high beam low beam switch , and last of all welcome to the board.

[[JP]]

Ohh...so you are saying that by twisting the light switch it dimms the dashlights?
i know about the switch on the floor now and also that its broken.. have one on order from LMC together with a bunch of other parts.

[mjh1965]

Originally Posted by [JP]

Ohh...so you are saying that by twisting the light switch it dimms the dashlights?
i know about the switch on the floor now and also that its broken.. have one on order from LMC together with a bunch of other parts.

Yes that's correct , if you need parts also try rock auto.com as there website also gives you the shipping cost to the uk when you look up a part . If you need anything bigger , we use Ron at STS imports . Myself , Rian (Grizz1963) and Ian (ibrown50) have all used him with great success , as you will see if you read our threads .

[[JP]]

well, today when I got home had to test the washer pump, so played around with the twist bit and now that is dark I can see the lights dimming.. all works! excellent!!

On another note, I saw the washer switch was $80 from LMC and the heater switch another $80....
got a washer switch yesterday off ebay for $29.. and also won an auction for $29 with the heater switch, the cable, the support and the whole ducting! I dont need all of it, but I'm getting it all sent by someone who doesnt pay post (pays as if it was normal post in the UK) so... result!!!

anyway, to update and keep this thread informative, in case someone does a search on it, I'll add this here, the explanation on how to test the washer motor and pump.
Was written by the user quoted.

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

You're welcome!

Yes, to test the pump hook a fused +12V feed to the #2 "power" terminal. Then run a small jumper wire from the #4 "power" terminal over to one of the "washer" terminals (doesn't matter which one).

Then to simulate the 2-speed dash switch, you can use a couple of jumper wires. To run the motor on low speed, jumper both the #1 "high" and #3 "low" terminals to ground. Similarly, to operate the motor on high speed, only jumper the #1 "high" terminal to
ground (leaving #3 disconnected).

Note that these motors have a built-in park switch that will continue to run the motor after the switch is turned off and only stop once it reaches the parked position. But in order to test that feature, you have to ground the motor's metal case.

The washer is mechanically driven off the motor's gearbox. So to test the washer you have to run the motor on either low or high speed as described above. Then jumper the remaining "washer" terminal to ground. That should cause the washer solenoid to click and engage the pump drive mechanism. At that point, you can disconnect the ground jumper from the "washer" terminal and with the motor still running, the pump should continue to go through about 3 or 4 cycles before the pumping mechanism automatically disengages.

So I've done all he said and everything works.. even the pump is working, although it doesnt sound too strong, but then again it might be just the way it is... what do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/eDvaat7FBtY

[Grizz1963]

Great result on all fronts JP.

This is why my build thread is a record for my own and others to reference.

Glad you are having loads of wins.

[[JP]]

So today the weather messed my plans up!
rain all day I couldnt get much of the wiring I wanted to do done... only managed to run the wires for the front indicators (still waiting on sockets and bulbs from the US)

Halfords had an offer on, so I thought taking advantage out of it and have more space to put my tools... went and got all the red chests for £225! not bad.


Hooked up the hoses to the washer pump.. damn thing clicks and clicks and doesnt suck any water. got fked off with it and wired up a universal one I had bought...
will try sort it later but just want to get it all done for MOT. Might even just use this universal washer pump and bottle and wire it up to the standard switch once I get it.

went to the breakers yard and found a Mercedes Vito looking sorry for itself, so took the front seat belts out of there.
then I needed anchor points.. found a Mercedes Class A and got the anchor points and lap belt out of that as the anchor points are long.



then was time to start building a bracket. still looks a bit rough because I haven't had time to make it look tidy. My main aim is to get it all done for MOT, then I have to register and I'll tidy things up when I'm waiting for plates.



then I cut a slit on it so I could get the correct angle. Will TIG weld it later.


Then made an angled bracket to bolt to the floor (luckily the nut was still there) so I could bolt the anchor points
Final result...
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/jotape/Chevy%20truck/20160117_142550.jpg[/img

[ibrown50]

Nice job on the seatbelts, something still on my "to do" list, how did you mount the top of the belt in the pillar?

[[JP]]

Using the same backing plate that was on the Vito van.
Sat in the truck held the seatbelt up roughly, marked it, drilled and then put my arm up the back of it to hold the nut and backing plate.

[Grizz1963]

Impressed with seat belts.

Very nice.

[[JP]]

So.. all the seat belts are in but forgot to take a photo! made some brackets for the anchor points in the middle and 2 bolts I had taken off the Vito van were the same thread as the nuts on the truck, so fitted it all. looks great.. will take a photo at some point.

Also wired a rear license plate light, had one laying around in the garage so just used that for now, hid it behind the bumper, made a bracket which then bent in a way the white light points at where the license plate will be.



The parts I had ordered from the US should arrive today, then I can wire in the front turn signals/ parking lights and on Saturday I'm taking the truck to the MOT. Once it passes (which it will) I can ask for UK license plates!

[60chevyjim]

good to see you are making progress so you can drive it soon .

[[JP]]

yeh thanks! can't wait to drive it!
Parts will arrive today, tomorrow I can wire up the front indicators/side lights and I'm ready for MOT on saturday.
Saturday will be the first time I'll drive it.

[[JP]]

More progress... the rest of the parts I was waiting arrived yesterday...
Got the wiper motor mounted back with a gasket in place
floor switch mounted and working, dash lights work
rear license plate light looks really cool at night (as it just pointing at it and hidden...
MOT is on for Saturday!

[Grizz1963]

Brilliant [JP] !!!

You are marching right along with your truck.

Trusting your tester is a sensible, classic sympathetic guy.

Some testers are real anal, and won't test the trucks for what they are.

Let us know when you have been to McDonalds for your first drive through burger.
:

[[JP]]

Oh...the tester is a mate. I just want to take it half decent there so I'm not taking the piss.
I dont even have a handbrake... lol

I'm not sure if the truck will fit through the MacDonalds drivethrough? other thing I have to do is measure the barriers at work car park... dont think it will fit through it either hahaha or might be a tight squeeze

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by [JP]

Oh...the tester is a mate. I just want to take it half decent there so I'm not taking the piss.
I dont even have a handbrake... lol

I'm not sure if the truck will fit through the MacDonalds drivethrough? other thing I have to do is measure the barriers at work car park... dont think it will fit through it either hahaha or might be a tight squeeze

That is great news.

Ultimately, the question a tester should ask is "Would I let my 18 year old daughter drive it on a night out" if the answer is yes, then pass it.

I only reverse my truck down my drive.

The first time I came home with it, and when this video was made, was the last time it went head first down the side of the house.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x62zfyfLFGI


I am sure your boss will see what needs to be done if it's a tight fit.

Looking forward to pics of your truck next to, or near various landmarks.

Both for our pleasure and also for the American following you may already have built up on here....