Anyone install a Speedway 4 link?

[shrek55]

FWIW I put in the Speedway triangulated 4 link with the 9 inch housing included. I own my repair shop w/Alignment rack. I was really surprised that with a minimal adjustment everything came in perfect and that my frame is totally squared off.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by tmoble

I looked at that deal before I went with the Vette deal. I couldn't get around the angle of the upper arms. Almost looks like it would need a panhard bar. I you're going to use a panhard you don't need the angled upper at all. Just run a straight ahead 4-link.

look at the angle of the uppers on a Chevelle rear, this is essentially a stepchild of that. I think they're at 45*.

I think it's a good kit and the angles of the upper bars are fine. My problem is that I have a Ford 8.8 and the housing isn't centered, so one of the upper links would go straight toward the housing. I'm sure I could make it work but it just wouldn't look right.

There's no problem with Speedway or this kit, I just have too much into the 8.8 not to use it.

[chopit]

Just a note to anyone reading this thread for future reference. The 8.8 Mustang GT rear has centered housing and 3:55

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693615

Sorry for your pain jweb. Since you already have the 4 link and may be hard to sell, wonder if you could come out selling your 8.8 and going with Mustang

[dsraven]

there are a few rear suspension write ups on google and then, once you have the basic geometry thing figured out and if you were so inclined, you could build your own 4 link pretty easily with parts from welders series in Ontario Canada. check out their site, lots of brackets and bars and kits for the do it yourself guy. that is what i used for my rear end set up.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by chopit

Just a note to anyone reading this thread for future reference. The 8.8 Mustang GT rear has centered housing and 3:55

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693615

Sorry for your pain jweb. Since you already have the 4 link and may be hard to sell, wonder if you could come out selling your 8.8 and going with Mustang

I thought about selling the 8.8 but either way I will lose. I paid $225 for the 8.8 then had new seals and bearings installed ($180). Also already got new slotted/drilled rotors and pads ($70). Due to my lack of patience I ordered a trailing arm kit and will keep the 8.8. The trailing arm setup is what I wanted originally, plus the 3.73 gears will work well with my LS1/4L60 setup.

Also going to change the price of the 4 link to $300 shipped, that way anyone can get it for $100 less.

[tmoble]

that Welder Series stuff looks good. well thought out and easy to work with.

[dsraven]

that 8.8 is a pretty tough set up if you get the one with the larger axles. cheap at pick n pull too. lots of guys use the ones from an explorer but the diff pumpkin is offset. almost the right track width though. disc brakes are pretty easy to find on the explorer rears as well. suggest a heavy duty diff cover with built in carrier bearing support if doing big power or abuse is daily. check out the ranger station for info on the diffs.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by dsraven

that 8.8 is a pretty tough set up if you get the one with the larger axles. cheap at pick n pull too. lots of guys use the ones from an explorer but the diff pumpkin is offset. almost the right track width though. disc brakes are pretty easy to find on the explorer rears as well. suggest a heavy duty diff cover with built in carrier bearing support if doing big power or abuse is daily. check out the ranger station for info on the diffs.

My LS1 is stock and I plan to leave it that way for awhile. So I think the explorer 8.8 will work out. If I do any upgrades to the motor I will look into those diff covers. Thank for the info

[dsraven]

maybe you could figure something out with some welders series brackets. this is what i did using an explorer 8.8 and a ranger sway bar sway bar uses some muffler clamp parts that fit the diff tube diameter and some u bolts that a spring shop made up. the panhard bar is also a welders series unit but made my own frame bracket to keep it level at ride height and modified the diff bracket to suit my needs. the frame end of the 4 link is just a diff bracket modified and welded to a tube that welds to a flat bracket on the frame to spread the weight. the diff end is set up with a platform for an air bag. again, welders series. it is a work in progress and will need some bracing on that tube. anyway, not rocket science and will probably work just fine. you can't buy the DOM tubing and thread it all, supply all the ends and bushings etc for what you can buy this stuff for. especially with the US dollar what it is compared to Canadian.

[dsraven]

here is what the frame brackets looked like before and after. easy mod. shock mounts on diff are home made. they look like the diff brackets for the 4 link without the holes for the rods. easy fab job.
remember, when you cut off the explorer brackets, to do things slow and move around on the housing. do a bit on one side then the other. you don't want to warp the axle tubes with too much heat at one time.

[jweb]

dsraven, thanks for all of the pictures and information. If I had more time and skills I would try to make the 4 link work. I ordered the trailing arm kit and will have it in Monday. I'm going to cut all the brackets off the axle and remove the leaf spring brackets from the frame this weekend. I should be bolting in the trailing arm kit next weekend.

Also, I'm sure I will find someone that will want to buy or trade something for the 4 link.

[DueWest]

Anyone have a finished picture using the speedway 4link? Curious where wheels sit in the fender? Speedway says it puts the axle in the stock location, wondering if it worth getting the tci kit that moves the axle back 2"?

[dsraven]

before you take anything apart, level the frame fron to rear and plumb bob the axle, mark the frame where the axle centerline is at stock. then you can recreate that with the 4 link later,

[dsraven]

sorry, trailing arm kit. same thing for the axle location though.