1972 C10 Pro Touring/Autocross build

['68 Newtricks]

How is the steering with the CPP500 box, spindles, arms, and such? You've got the same setup as I do.

[72GREENC10]

So while I'm waiting on my track bar and sway bars I decided to start building my brake cooling ducts. I used stock dust shields and 3 inch pipe. I'll be putting the inlets in the bumper where the turn signals are and running the ducting to these, I'll be doing something similar on the rear.

[72GREENC10]

The steering is very good and as far as the arms are I wasn't happy with them. I had to switch back to stock hiegth spindles and 4in drop springs to achieve the alignment specs I wanted.

[72GREENC10]

Got everything installed and ready to weld on the rear, and i took her out to let her get some sun. Stay tuned, hotchkis track bar and sway bars coming next.

[72GREENC10]

Here are the pictures of the new front sway bar and pan hard bar set up. I decided to try to put the rear sway bar on this weekend and figured out that the crossmember directly past the one for the trailing arms is in the way, so this weekend i will be taking it out and hopefully be finally putting the rear in. Im guessing this is only a thing that long beds have because i have not seen one on a short bed. After this i will be focusing on the the upper shock mounts, rear end, fuel cell, and some frame boxing and bracing.

[72GREENC10]

So i ended up getting my gears, i went with richmond 3:73's, i am just waiting to get axle studs and a new diff cover then i can send it to get installed. I ended up getting a motor as well, i found a good deal on a 5.3 out of a 2008 tahoe with 60k on it. it has 243 heads already and i also hear that this one has good rods, so im gonna start building this. Planning on getting the heads and intake ported, and running a different cam, maybe lingenfelter or the gm asa grind, and long tubes and deleting the DOD.

[72GREENC10]

I tore into the motor this weekend so everything is inspected before i do cam/ heads/ springs/ pushrods ect.

[gringoloco]

Cool truck, I dig it!

[Hart_Rod]

in

[72GREENC10]

Alright guys sorry ive been away for awhile, i have got alot of stuff done on the truck.

I contacted Ron Sutton to build be a brake package that can be used on a road course as well as be able to compete in autocross and still be used on the street He created a good set up that i like that utilizes the stock front rotors and can use most of my parts i ordered for the rear . I ended up getting rid of my D154 calipers that had the two smaller pistons because of their lack of clamping force. So i ended up Getting
-Wilwood D154r calipers for the rear (Has one 2" piston opposed to the two smaller pistons)
-Wilwood BP20 Pads (for Road course)
- Wilwood 7/8 tandem M/c
-Wilwood Pushrod kit

*He recommended The "E" pad for autocross, I didn't purchase this yet, before i go to good guys i will get a set.


Ron is a very Knowledgeable source when it comes to anything on from purpose built track cars to street cars. I will not hesitate to take any of my question to him. He does tech services for all kinds of suspension, brakes and engine set ups.

I finally had my 12 bolt built. I took it to a local shop that did an awesome job on everything, i ended up having the trutrac installed, gears, 1350 yoke, bearings and new axles with arp studs with a moser girdled cover.

I ended up getting rid of all of my cpp stuff, i wasnt too happy with it. So i ended up getting all hotchkis components to make a complete TVS kit. Upper and lower control arms, springs, panhard bar, sway bars, shock mounts, center link and tie rod adjuster. I didnt get their shocks because i already purchased Ridetech HQ's which i will get Ron's "secret sauce" valving once i get the engine and transmission in.

Next on the list to get finished is:
-Front modular drop spindles to use with the hotchkis control arms (they use 73-87 ball joints) Along with the Hotchkis 2in springs along with new pitman arm and tie rod ends (hotchkis tie rod adjusters uses 67-72 inner tie rods and 73-87 outers i believe)
-Cooler for the power steering with new lines
-Fuel cell
-Get rear cross member made for the shocks, along with fixing the front of the frame where we made room for a set of old headers that didn't fit properly and get the rear spring mounts plated.
-Get the brake line plumbed
-Move the battery to the rear
-Have a Full cage built or at least a roll bar with a cross bar for the harness's.

Thanks guys!

[72GREENC10]

Here are my brake calc sheets from Ron, the set up i had before was unsafe.
The new set up will work well for what i want to do.