Fix One Thing, Another Goes Wrong!

[LBJ]

Hatzie, I ended up finding a genuine ACDELCO rebuilt unit from Rock Auto. They had three left. ACDELCO quit rebuilding these, so they are just about all gone out there. It's part number 88864775 and was $96 plus $50 core charge. Maybe I can find a core at a junk yard, return it, and get most of that back. Shipping was about $15. I hope that fixes my problem. I can use the Standard Brand cap, coil, rotor, and wires I already bought. Installed new plugs, so it should run like a top.

Thanks for the tipoff on the Chinese junk. Ha. I don't mind doing that on some parts, but not the distributor. Seems ACDELCO is the way to go. I probably would have gotten a genuine chevy core at a junk yard otherwise and rebuilt it.

[hatzie]

AC Delco rebuild for that price. You scored. Put it in and run it. You'll be into a home rebuild for about the same money or a little more and you won't have a warranty.

I would still check the gear endplay. GM AC Delco tolerances were a little looser than .010".

[LBJ]

Hatzie, glad i bought one online. Called two local salvage yards and they have none. They must go fast when they get one. I asked what they get for one if they have them. Guy said $50 PLUS a rebuildable core. Ha. Core at a wrecking yard? Haha. I thought that's why folks go there. Anyway, looks like I won't find a cheap core to send back to Rock Auto, so will just eat it.

Not sure how to check that end play, other than the rattle test. Is that vertical play or horizontal play?

[cadillac_al]

When I am in walmart I always say I would pay double for Made in USA stuff. If those AC Delco distributors proudly said Made in USA or Rebuilt in USA on the box I would pay that price too.

[LBJ]

Al, It's supposed to be here today, so, I'll be checking it out and will let you know what it says about the rebuild and parts.

[LBJ]

Al, just arrived. It says REMAN IN USA. GM part numbers on the housing. Looks great. Hatzie, all plays feel good, not loose, not too tight. Will install on Friday. Got an errand to run now. Maybe Friday she will be driving again.

What oiling does this thing need before installing? I didn't see any oiling notes in the instructions. Maybe some grease on the drive gear?

[hatzie]

End play is measured by slipping feeler gauges between the gear and the housing. It's probably fine. 0.010" - 0.015" Look at the rebuild instruction link I posted.
Shouldn't need any oiling there's a pad in the top under the pickup assembly soaked with synthetic lube. Again look at the rebuild link to see this.

[LBJ]

OK, I went back to find the link to the tutorial. Good stuff. Hopefully, this is the last time I will have to mess with the distributor. I WILL get the feeler gages and check the end play before I install. I looked at the end play again, and it does look like more than 0.015". But, hard to really say without measuring. Hope the auto supply has some shim kits if I need them.

On the oiling, I was referring to the drive gear that runs off the cam. Maybe pour some 30W oil on there before I put it down the distributor hole?

Hatzie, thanks for the inputs.

One more thing, is silicone grease about the same as Syl-Glide? Bought a large tube at the auto store.

[hatzie]

The permanent silicone lube is in a felt donut under the pickup assembly. It should be brand new with the rebuild and good for the life of the distributor.

If it makes you feel better pour some motor oil in the gear. It'll have lots as soon as the distributor gear starts spinning the oil pump.

If the end play is 0.015" or less leave it alone.

[LBJ]

I checked the gap and it's 0.022". Going to leave it alone and install. Tried to find an 0.010" shim around here, but folks never heard of them. Ha. It will have to do.

And, I pulled the shim off the old unit - 0.030" and way too thick.

[hatzie]

Moroso 26140 Distributor gear shim kit for 1/2" shafts.
2 x 0.010"
2 x 0.020"
1 x 0.053"

Summit, Jegs, Amazon, a local speed shop.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-26140/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/261...oductId=748771
http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-26140-Distributor-Gea...

The MSD 8495 kit has 0.015" & 0.025" shims... but you don't need those.

A .010" shim will reduce 1.69° timing float from 0.022" endplay to .93° float with 0.012"... Is it worth the trouble to tighten up the timing by 0.76°?

[LBJ]

It runs good now! Started on the first twist of the key. Does anyone have the timing spec off hand? All my car books are still in boxes in the garage waiting for book shelves. Seems like it was 8 or 10 BTDC.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by LBJ

It runs good now! Started on the first twist of the key. Does anyone have the timing spec off hand? All my car books are still in boxes in the garage waiting for book shelves. Seems like it was 8 or 10 BTDC.

Look in my signature for the GM service manuals in PDF.

[LBJ]

I set it at 8 BTDC and drove her. wow, She runs like a spotty zzz ape! Smooth acceleration, no problems. Bought a new gas cap. Hope there's not any other return air blockages to the gas tank. Thanks all, for the help. Hatzie, I'll check your shop manual links. I've got them, all in boxes. Just don't have a place to put them. Ha

I might need to tweak the idle jets as she's a bit on the rich side with black exhaust residue. But, she runs so good, hate to mess with success.

[Front Range]

Way to stick with it, glad you figured it out.

[LBJ]

Front Range, yep, staying determined is the only way to get'er done. Thanks for your help along the way. And from others. Got lots of good ideas.

[LBJ]

I was doing the fuel-air idle mixture adjustment this morning and one of the door hinge pins I welded had popped up. Now, welding those on the driver's side door was what started the whole whacked-out distributor problem to begin with. I will reweld it, but this time, will disconnect both battery terminals AND pull the 12 volt wire to the distributor! Really don't want to go thru all that mess again. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. Ha

Drove to the auto store this morning after tweaking the fuel-air idle needle valves. Just leaned them out 1/4 turn, and still held 18-19 inches of vacuum on the gage. The needle on the gage held steady, which indicates a solid engine. Drove 80 mph there and back, wow, ran like a new truck. When things go well, it's fun to work on the old girl.

[hatzie]

Don't weld the hinge pins. Install one of the many cheap available bushing and pin kits.
I've done this on 3 S10 Blazers, several T400 CK pickups, and a 97 Ram 1500.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sho...orn-door-pins!

[LBJ]

Heck, the whole hinge set is almost brand new, considering the amount of use she gets. Only been on less than 10 years. Pins just creep out, not really worn. The upper pin got welded good. I must have failed to get into the hinge itself on the bottom pin. A little more Dremel tool work should clean up the paint off the hinge.