anyone running a tremec 6 speed?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by LS short box

The T56 magnum is not cheap but finding a descent used T56 isn't easy and then upgrading it?

That's what I tired to do. Paid $1500 for one said to have around 80K miles on it from a camaro. You can't check much on one without disassembly. I could only make sure the input and output shafts turned freely and that it would go into all the gears. Then on disassembly, found out in needed a new shaft and a gear cluster....$$$.... Since it was cracked open, all new bearings and seals throughout, new synchronizers... Then decided WTF, not going to do this again and went ape with the next level build, cryogenic treatment of all the internal parts and some more upgrades. The bad news was it cost a small fortune, about double what I budgeted. The good news, I'll never have to open it again and don't have to worry about grenading it when I am thrashing it.

The conversion clutch and flywheel was around $1500 IIRC, another $500 or so for the clutch hydraulics....linkage parts.... The crossmember and mount... Shortening the driveshaft..... Shifter parts, high hump conversion and new carpet for the high hump.

Start accumulating your parts piece by piece so it's a little easier. That's what I am doing with my new front end. Buy stuff as I can and when I have it all, get to work.

[NC_John]

And if you buy a used one, some on the earliest gm f-body ones are not very good - check with a builder but I think 92 or 93 and later and you are ok.

[30 a truck]

I ran a 6 speed in this 30 A truck . Engine & trans were from a 2001 Camaro. 373 gears, 1400 RPM at 70. Hardly ever ran 6th gear. Loved it.

[NC_John]

But wait, there's more ($$$). I forgot I also had to buy a new starter (to work with the new flywheel since the tooth count changed) and get the exhaust tweaked since I changed crossmembers and the way it had to be run for the original three-speed was dumb.

And or course, the 3.07 gear wasn't compatible with the 6 spd... 6th gear would have been numerically good for something like 300 mph when I calculated it. So the cost of the rear-end needs to be in there too.

Yeah, its not a cheap upgrade, but probably one of the best you will do.

[Possmguts]

About to head back out on the road for the week, and thats when I do my best thinking.... Thank you guys for all the input. Each one of you gave me some things to ponder.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

About to head back out on the road for the week, and thats when I do my best thinking.... Thank you guys for all the input. Each one of you gave me some things to ponder.

Despite all the expense, I would do it again in a second. Its a fantastic upgrade and cool as hell.

[Ruscal]

Nice model A! It has a pretty tight cabin for clutchwork! My size 14's go from the seat to the fire wall.
Russ

[30 a truck]

Shortened the bed 3 3/4", moved cab back 3 3/4". Lengthened hood 3 3/4". Made more room in cab for feet & pedals.

[ryans69chevy]

Also in the process of a t56 magnum swap... Which is saving up for one! Lol I've talked to Jay at American Powertrain a couple times about this swap. He is a real knowledge and nice guy. He actually has three of these pickups and has thrown a tremec into. So he knows first hand about the work. I would call him and talk it through with him! I guess that's one of the big setbacks is the price, but since everyone on here loves them and having one in an older vehicle is pretty cool, why not do it? It's only money...

[ryans69chevy]

I looked through some of your guy's build threads looking for pics of the install of one of these transmissions, but maybe it would be easier to post them in this thread? And maybe helpful links on what you guys used during your installations.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Lattimer]

I did the 5-speed TKO, but I can say I had a very positive experience buying the entire kit through American Powertrain. Everything worked like it was supposed to, fit was good, no real issues. I had to call them twice for assistance, and they picked up the phone and had the answer for me.

[ryans69chevy]

Talked to Jay again and he was saying if I purchase their bell housing it would bolt straight up and wouldn't have to worry about getting runout like I would if I had the original bell used with their adapter. It's only a couple hundred more then I don't have to search through the junkyard and then risking runout.

I didn't purchase the crossmember since he made it sound like the factory one would work. Just have to prob move it back a bit.

Anyone else have any experience on this??

Thanks,
Ryan

[cooperhw]

I have not put one in a truck (yet) but did put one in my last 67 Chevelle I sold a couple months ago. Also put one in my 72 El Camino I am currently building.
My Chevelle had a 4-11 gear set with a 31.5" tire. It cruised down the highway at 70MPH about 1400 RPMs in 6th gear which is borderline lugging the LS motor. Mostly cruised in 5th gear at about 1900 RPM's. 6th gear was almost useless.
Just started a 72 El Camino build with an LS motor and once again put in a Tremic T56. $5500 bought the motor, trans., harness, pedal assembly, complete tear out of a 2002 Camaro Z28 with 83,000 miles. Not suggesting you do anything of the kind, just telling you what I did.
Not on the road yet, but I do have experience with this mod. and LOVE it.

[Cooper Restorations]

We have just gotten set up to be a dealer for Tremec TKO transmissions. We have a TKO 600 (5 speed) and complete install kit made specifically for our C10 "shop truck". A 67 SWB C10 with 4:10 gears. After doing a lot of research, we figured the 5 speed was definitely the way to go, and would be a better choice than the 6 speed. We were assured that we would love it, and if we didn't, they would buy it back from us. Give me a call if you want to discuss it farther. We would be happy to help you decide. Plus, being in Indiana, we aren't far from you.
Jeff Cooper
Cooper Restorations
765-661-1723

[trkfrk]

Either a 5 speed or 6 speed are probably both great choices. I really enjoy driving my truck with the t56. I just installed 4:56s from 3:73's and wow! I'm running a 30.5" rear tire and tach 1900 RPM @ 80 MPH in 6th. I've dropped from 5th gear @ 60mph into 3ed and broke the tires loose

[Ruscal]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

Talked to Jay again and he was saying if I purchase their bell housing it would bolt straight up and wouldn't have to worry about getting runout like I would if I had the original bell used with their adapter. It's only a couple hundred more then I don't have to search through the junkyard and then risking runout.

I didn't purchase the crossmember since he made it sound like the factory one would work. Just have to prob move it back a bit.

Anyone else have any experience on this??

Thanks,
Ryan

Ryan,
I just completed the install of a t56 magnum into my '67 short step. The bell housing issue pertains mostly to the scatter shield type, since they are fabricated from welded steel components and tolerance holding is difficult. The factory cast aluminum ones are relied upon by GM to be usable out of the box. I wanted the protection of a scatter shield and went with the Lakewood Quicktime product. I indicated it and it was off center by .004", which is within Tremec's tolerance limit. Offset pins are offered starting at .007", which would have put me .003" beyond center. I am experiencing no noise or other bad vibes.
As far as cross members go, the mounting is similar to other transmissions. In my case I was going from a turbo 400. The position of the mount was pretty close fore and aft, but had to be lowered so the top of the trans would clear the floor. I fabbed a new cross member with around a 2" drop. The belly of the trans hangs about 2" below the frame rails. I used the low hump cover, but modded it to give about an inch of extra height. The rear of the tunnel opening also has to be modified by raising the tunnel mounting flange about an inch. I have not tried to see if a stock low hump carpet kit will cover the modded floor yet. The magnum has 3 shifter positions. I am using the forward most, which requires the purchase of a shifter. I got one from Core Shifters. They sell different height shifters that can match shifting effort/speed to stick length. I think the one I purchased was matched for an 11" stick and seems about perfect for my stick that sits about level with the edge of the seat.
All of my build and install photos were lost. I left my tablet somewhere at the Del Mar Goodguys car show last weekend.
Russ

[sangell]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=675835

My son and I are in the process of swapping a 5.3 and t-56 into his 71. I went with a
t-56 from a 2005 CTSV which brings with it some issues that the f-fody version does not. Non of which bothered me as it was a custom install anyway. We built our own motor mounts and trans mount to keep the drive train as far back and as low as we could while keeping the trans above the bottom of the frame. The truck was a factory big block/th400 so it has the high hump and you will see in the pics I had to cut the hump to clear the trans.

I used a LS7 factory clutch and slave cylinder, tilton 7/8" master cyl, and some custom parts to hook it to the clutch pedal.

The CTSV version of the t-56 has different ratios that the f-bodys. 1st gear is 2.92 vs 2.66 and 6th is .56 vs .50 so we went with 4.56 gears and are running a 27' tall tire which puts the motor at 2200ish rpms at 75 mph.

I got a Hurst Shifter kit for a CTSV and we are making our own mount for it so the shifter is where we want it.

It is a good bit of work to make it all fit the way we want but it should be cool when done.

[ryans69chevy]

Russ, that's too bad about the iPad getting lost. Was looking forward to seeing all that!

Well it sounds like the bell housing I purchased through them should work or be within their tolerances.

As far as the crossmember I'm hoping mine will work and not have to purchase one. I have a high hump so I hopefully I'll have a little more wiggle room- we will see!

You should post a pic of your setup now. I'd like to see where your shifter sits as it comes out of the floor. I was recommended to do the mid shift position since I have a bench seat. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ryan

[Ruscal]

Ryan,
You should be OK with the high hump except maybe at the back lip. I raised that lip about an inch. I'll try and find a camera to show you how I went about it. Regarding the cross member, I boxed in the frame for about 6" where the cross member attaches. Just a simple 1/8" plate welded along the lip of the frame channels. The cross member is 2"x2"x1/8" SS tube with 1/8" plate flanges welded to each end and bolted to the boxed frame. This allowed for adjustment vertically and fore and aft before the bolt holes were ultimately located. The boxed frame plates actually worked for both T400 and T56. I just made the new cross member drop about 2" in a V, where the old one was straight across. I did need a new drive shaft though due to shorter length and I wanted to use 1350 Spicer U joints in lieu of the smaller old ones.
The "mid shifter position your vendor referred to may actually be the forward most location. They confusingly refer to the forward position as "mid shifter" location. The forward inspection cover location works well in my truck, but my engine is set back as far as possible and still be able to remove the distributer. My engine was 6" farther forward when I bought the truck. I also lowered the engine about an inch. The pan is about an inch above the front cross member, and the balancer is almost touching it. You can mount the transmission and then decide which shifter location works for you. My engine is angled down 2.75 degrees, and the diff pinion is angled up 2.75. It is working smoothly with no vibrations.
Russ

[Tiger Joe]

I just swapped a tko-600 in place of my t10 4 speed I had and love it.

bought mine through Hurst Driveline conversions. my 67 is low hump, and all I needed to modify was the front cab seam, and move the shifter hole. I'm running the rear most (standard) shifter position flipped forward, and I built my own shifter handle and it clears my original console no problem.

Would absolutely do it again in a heartbeat. was hard to swallow the bill at first, but with my 496 BBC I can shift to OD at 50-55 and just lug it down the back two lane roads in our area

[Cooper Restorations]

When we get ours installed, you are more than welcome to drive over to Indiana and take it for a drive. Keep in touch.

[ryans69chevy]

Russ, sounds like you got that transmission supported very well. Hopefully I should be fine without all of that as my frame is already painted! :/ I guess we will see though. Worst case I'm sure American Powertrain's crossmember just bolts up so it should be okay.

Ill have to call and ask about that mid shifter again then. I thought I remember asking him about it and he said it was in the middle position. BUT I could be wrong! I'm looking forward to seeing the pics of yours to see how it looks in the cab.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Possmguts]

This thread is moving along nicely.. some great info here... thanks to everyone for their input and experiences... I wont be able to do this until later on, but my frame is also painted and I have the low hump and have painted the underside of the cab already... so I may be having to re-do some of that work if I have to modify the floor and the hump...

Sounds like with the 350 I have at the moment and the 3:73 gears I may be good to go with the 5 speed... but I will be building a 383 stroker once the truck is done enough to run the poop out of the 350 while I build the next motor and save for the trans...

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Ruscal

Ryan,
You should be OK with the high hump except maybe at the back lip. I raised that lip about an inch. I'll try and find a camera to show you how I went about it. Regarding the cross member, I boxed in the frame for about 6" where the cross member attaches. Just a simple 1/8" plate welded along the lip of the frame channels. The cross member is 2"x2"x1/8" SS tube with 1/8" plate flanges welded to each end and bolted to the boxed frame. This allowed for adjustment vertically and fore and aft before the bolt holes were ultimately located. The boxed frame plates actually worked for both T400 and T56. I just made the new cross member drop about 2" in a V, where the old one was straight across. I did need a new drive shaft though due to shorter length and I wanted to use 1350 Spicer U joints in lieu of the smaller old ones.
The "mid shifter position your vendor referred to may actually be the forward most location. They confusingly refer to the forward position as "mid shifter" location. The forward inspection cover location works well in my truck, but my engine is set back as far as possible and still be able to remove the distributer. My engine was 6" farther forward when I bought the truck. I also lowered the engine about an inch. The pan is about an inch above the front cross member, and the balancer is almost touching it. You can mount the transmission and then decide which shifter location works for you. My engine is angled down 2.75 degrees, and the diff pinion is angled up 2.75. It is working smoothly with no vibrations.
Russ

There are pictures on the last page of my build thread showing what I had to do to the floor to make it all fit. My transmission is completely above the bottom of the frame rail.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by NC_John

There are pictures on the last page of my build thread showing what I had to do to the floor to make it all fit. My transmission is completely above the bottom of the frame rail.

Look good John... from what I see in the build thread it looks like I would not have to do any repainting under the cab if I was to swap my low hump out for a high hump and could just paint the new hump and little piece for the back of the hump... maybe..