No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[Clndesl]

About how much will this lower the rear

[Andy4639]

Rob I notice the coil springs are located in front of the axle but the older kit I have they are behind the axle. Any reason for this, I know my 71 isn't a weekend racer but just thought I would ask.
I always thought the further out they where would help with the body roll.
Ha I went back and read the other post's after I read this last night at work.
Man I wish I could afford one of your whole system's for my truck!
A man has to have dreams I guess!

[robnolimit]

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.

In the picts you can see that the truck has some rake, but the bed is not on. As soon as this is done, like this weekend, I'll get some picts and some finished ride height measurements. We should have done this on the other test trucks but things happen so fast as soon as they get to driving, and we missed the chance.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Rob I notice the coil springs are located in front of the axle but the older kit I have they are behind the axle. Any reason for this, I know my 71 isn't a weekend racer but just thought I would ask.
I always thought the further out they where would help with the body roll.
Ha I went back and read the other post's after I read this last night at work.
Man I wish I could afford one of your whole system's for my truck!
A man has to have dreams I guess!

Mostly yes, as far as shock spacing goes. Our FatBar and 3-Link have the shocks to the rear and outside. And, we did a coil-over kit for the OE trailing arms years ago (like 20) (that hurt to say) that was back and out. Our FatBar and 3-link use suspension geometry to get the trucks to work well and smooth out the ride. With the new trailing arm system, we were confined to some of the OE geometry, so we had to find other ways to smooth it out. So we used the leverage from the trailing arm in our new kit. And, believe it or not, we've learned a few things in twenty years. Our big goal here was to deliver on the promise of a true bolt-on suspension system that is reasonably priced (check the competitors offerings) and delivers actual performance and a better quality ride. Not as easy as it sounds, but I believe that we did it.

[Andy4639]

Thanks for taking the time on here to answer questions for us all.
Look forward to seeing you again in April.

[duallyjams]

I currently have your rear shock and panhard bar relocator with a 2" block and coil spring, would I be able to upgrade to this ?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

I currently have your rear shock and panhard bar relocator with a 2" block and coil spring, would I be able to upgrade to this ?

Unfortunately none of the parts cross over. All of the geometry points have been changes somewhat. So, where as the parts you have fit true OE specs, the new trailing arm kit is a full upgrade.
Now, you could find a board member that wants a smaller step upgrade........

[LS short box]

Very nice.

I'm just starting my C10 project and haven't purchased rear suspension components.

I like the johnny type joints for the control arms.

On a 67 Nova project I did a rear wheel 4 link conversion from Heidt. The base coil overs were single adjustable and too short for the application. Hated the setup until I redid it to double adjustable coil overs with longer travel. Your idea of longer travel shocks is outstanding.

Darn and I thought I'd happy modified stock stuff.

I will be in touch.

Again very nice.

[Clndesl]

Rob
Do you think I could install this on my freshly powder coated frame without messing it all up. I already got rid of the factory lanyard bracket before powder cause I was going to run your panhard.

[dirtyjim]

very nice set up and pretty much exactly what I was looking for, i'll wait till the notches are available before ordering.
just a couple questions, is that tank one of yours or another vendors?
right now i'm running one of the old cpp rear coilover set ups and my main gripe with it is the lack of travel and having to run way to stiff of a spring because of it. the other was the coilovers are mounted to the rear and outside limiting exhaust options out the back with a rear mounted gas tank. yours will solve the exhaust problem, right now i'm dumped in front of the rear axle

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Clndesl

Rob
Do you think I could install this on my freshly powder coated frame without messing it all up. I already got rid of the factory lanyard bracket before powder cause I was going to run your panhard.

no problems, just need to drill a few holes.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by dirtyjim

very nice set up and pretty much exactly what I was looking for, i'll wait till the notches are available before ordering.
just a couple questions, is that tank one of yours or another vendors?
right now i'm running one of the old cpp rear coilover set ups and my main gripe with it is the lack of travel and having to run way to stiff of a spring because of it. the other was the coilovers are mounted to the rear and outside limiting exhaust options out the back with a rear mounted gas tank. yours will solve the exhaust problem, right now i'm dumped in front of the rear axle

The tank is not ours. I think it is a Tanks unit. BTW, we saw all of the same problems with what is currently available. Quote from the project trucks owner "... not even the same truck ... smoother than my new Toyota..." OK, I'm not a Toyota owner, but I can tell you they are smooth riding. To say he is happy is an understatement.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Very nice.

I'm just starting my C10 project and haven't purchased rear suspension components.

I like the johnny type joints for the control arms.

On a 67 Nova project I did a rear wheel 4 link conversion from Heidt. The base coil overs were single adjustable and too short for the application. Hated the setup until I redid it to double adjustable coil overs with longer travel. Your idea of longer travel shocks is outstanding.

Darn and I thought I'd happy modified stock stuff.

I will be in touch.

Again very nice.

Thanks, glad to hear you solved the Nova troubles. Too many just live with it, and hate it.

[Goats86]

Hey Rob, What are those ball joint items at the front of the trailing arm. Would it make any sense to use those on a parallel four link setup to prevent any bind?

[1leglance]

Thanks for the mention that your kit still allows 335's in the rear....

I really really like it...
My son is heading off to college for mech engineering & wants to do the race engineer thing...
this and your "make it handle" thread are full of great info that is helping us choose the bits to upgrade granddad's 72 C-10 that we are autocrossing.

watching your website to place an order soon

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Goats86

Hey Rob, What are those ball joint items at the front of the trailing arm. Would it make any sense to use those on a parallel four link setup to prevent any bind?

Yes/no. The concept of these is great for a 4-bar to eliminate the bushing bind. These joints in particular are just too big (unless your heading to BAJA or KOTH). These Monster balls have a 1 1/8" shank, 3" width and 9/16" bolt I.D. Now, we do have a smaller version with a 3/4" shank, but, they are 1 5/8" wide and use a 7/16" bolt, so they don't fit into any common existing bracket. If you already have a standard 1 3/4" wide by 5/8" I.D. 4-bar bushing, and you really want to free it up, poly lined rod ends are your best bet.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 1leglance

Thanks for the mention that your kit still allows 335's in the rear....

I really really like it...
My son is heading off to college for mech engineering & wants to do the race engineer thing...
this and your "make it handle" thread are full of great info that is helping us choose the bits to upgrade granddad's 72 C-10 that we are autocrossing.

watching your website to place an order soon

Thanks, and good luck to your son.

[SMKN TA 95]

Will this rear setup work with any other trailing arm cross member (is bushing width different than factory) or does a stock one have to be used?

Are these kits in stock yet or still in the prototype stage?

Thanks!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

Will this rear setup work with any other trailing arm cross member (is bushing width different than factory) or does a stock one have to be used?

Are these kits in stock yet or still in the prototype stage?

Thanks!

Yes and No. The bushing width and bolt size is different that the OE bushing. We supply new front mounting brackets for the trailing arm bushing. If the crossmember you have has bolted on mounts, the new No Limit mounts could be easily swapped on (If the crossmember bolt pattern follows the OE it will be a direct swap, if not, more drilling, or welding) If the crossmember in question has welded mounts, they would need to be cut off, and the new bracket bolted or welded to it.

Yes, these are in full production and in stock. These kits ship within a few days of the order. All parts are powder coated in 'Magic Black' (20% gloss satin)

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Looks great Rob!

[smbrouss70]

Did you get any pictures of the truck once the bed was back on?

[crakarjax]

Rob, first off I should say I love your products, and I apologize for asking so many questions about them

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Sway Bars Rear sway bars are effective suspension tools that can be used to tune and custom tailor the ride to your liking. Our original design idea was to use a 'floating' bar and links, mounted to the chassis (again, reduction of un-sprung weight) and use links to connect to the trailing arms in a leveraged location. This will somewhat reduce to bars effectiveness, and allow the truck to 'settle in' to the corners with more tire grip.

This truck had a bunch of parts all ready on it. One of those items was a Hotchkis Suspension floating sway bar. Not a bad design, and almost exactly where we had planned our bar location. - If you check out our rear bar for OE C10's, it's in the same area. So, for the sake of the customer, we decided to re-use the Hotchkis bar. The links were adjusted and it bolts to the trailing arm in the provided mount lugs. The Hotchkis Bar is 3/4" solid. Our plans call for a 1" x .120 wall bar. The twist rates are almost the same. To us, the larger bushing mount surface of the 1" bar is a plus.

*** We will report back on the driver feeling, bar vs. no bar ***

I think I recall someone saying that it's best for the rear bar to mount on or as close to the axle as possible, but this bar is mounted on the trailing arms. I gather that doing this reduces the effective rate of the bar, by 33% based on the leveraged mounting location. Is there any other benefit to mounting on the axle besides maintaining bar effectiveness/less bar weight?

[dirtyjim]

Rob, can you pm me a shipping estimate to Alvin, tx 77511. residential address.
it will probably be early april before i'm ready to order.
thanks, jimmy

[70inbville]

[QUOTE=robnolimit;7508257]The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.


Is this drop including the blocks or not? just checking before ordering parts I don't need. Thanks

[BAGGEDLB7]

How well would this setup work for 1/4 mile launches?