Project daily drivable 62 C20

[72cs20]

A couple of other things done were the clutch pedal re-installed, clutch pedal linkage hooked up and new dash harness more or less in its final place.



And thanks to 66ChevyMax for the compliment.

[66ChevyMax]

I really like that clutch linkage

[62stepside longbox]

Looks good, why is it that you used that clutch linkage? Wouldn't it work just about the same with a setup like this?

[72cs20]

I'm using the whole CaptainFab " 60-62 booster bracket with clutch " and this is the linkage that comes with the kit, along with the clutch master cylinder. I believe this is the revised design.

[72cs20]

I figured I'd throw an update up for today. Got a bunch of little things done in the dash area. Still working on the dash wiring harness but should have that buttoned up this week. Also got a little bit of the engine compartment wiring plugged in at the firewall and the block-off plate bolted back on the cowl. Since the tbi 350 doesn't need a choke, the hole in the firewall that was for the choke cable comes in handy for the new wire harness


Got most of the dash controls in and wired up - ignition switch, headlight switch, wiper switch and the dimmer for the Dakota Digital instrument cluster. The hole in the dash that had the choke control is now used for this dimmer control, just left of column. Also set the new instrument panel in to see how it looks. Looks good I think.



And steering column back in.


Made a little progress with the brake plumbing with the proportioning now installed.

[62stepside longbox]

That gauge cluster sure is pretty

[72cs20]

Yeah, its pretty slick. Besides the gauges, there are ten indicators like the usual turn signals and high beam plus ones like check engine, 4x4, cruise, auto trans gear selection, wait-to-start for diesel engines and parking brake. You just wire up the ones need or want.

[jcramsey]

Thanks for directing me to your thread, I love this truck! Looking forward to watching it come along.

[shp4man]

That looks really nice! Can I ask how much paint that took to do?

[72cs20]

Thanks. If I remember correctly, it was 7 8oz. cans for the coverage I figured it would need to hold up. The dash got a couple extra coats.

[72cs20]

Update - Last month I thought that I had set the engine into the truck for the last time, but my bell housing and clutch linkage arrangement idea didn't work out like I'd hoped. My scheme to move the clutch linkage to the driver side was borne out of the idea that bell housings with the clutch arm opening on the driver side are plentiful and cheap. I was able to get two of them at the swap meet for 20 bucks, and one of them came with a 60-62 horseshoe V8 front engine mount. Good score!
Well, that didn't work because the cab floor and firewall are right on top of the driver side of the bell housing leaving no room for the clutch arm or slave cylinder arrangement. I didn't even notice this until a couple of weeks after the engine was bolted in.
After a little bit of searching I was able to obtain a correct 60-62 V8 bell housing. And no , it was not cheap. But he had it and I needed it. Oh well.

Here is a pic of the two bell housings. The one on the left can be used in 55-59 and 63 and later trucks. 60-62 on the right, after powder coating.


On the interior side I finally finished the dash harness along with the Dakota Digital instrument panel controller. Installed the instrument panel. Decided my stock steering column was too worn out to use so swapped it out for a tilt Ididit column. I liked the natural metal look so I just shot it with some clear.




Got the fuel gauge and dome light wiring ran to their respective locations. Got the new dome light installed. And installed the rear body wiring harness ran to rear of truck.

[72cs20]

On the engine side - The brake plumbing is all done. All the brake hardlines are for a 1972 C20 from In-Line tube. Great kit. Every line went together with no trouble. I had a clutch hydraulic line made locally so now the new clutch slave cylinder is plumbed to the clutch master. Intermediate shaft installed between column and steering box.

I had the engine accessory brackets powder coated gloss gray and got those mounted along with the alternator, new belt tensioner and idler. Water pump, pulley and fan mounted too.




Also tried out this steering wheel from Grant. I'm still on the fence about going with this wood style wheel. Anyone have opinions about this steering wheel?



I think it is coming along pretty well. My plan was to do something to the truck at least 5 days a week to ensure progress and it seems to be paying off.

[nail pounder]

Your truck is looking sweet, and a going very quickly as well. I personally like the wood steering wheel with the gold interior and the column. I have the same wheel in my 66 C20, but when my interior was gunmetal grey it didn't go as well as when I painted the interior white. I say leave until you interior is put together and then decide.

[72cs20]

Already been two months since my last post so here is a quick update on the progress.
The last couple of months have been spent dealing with that part of the project called the "devils details". Things like power steering hoses, fuel lines, fuel tank plumbing, seat fitment etc...

So here is my new fuel tank. I got it from LMC. Its a really nice piece and I couldn't tell the difference between it and the one that came out of the truck. It also has a fitting for a fuel return line, which I need to use for the TBI system on the engine I'm using.



Running a fuel injected engine opens up another can of worms. Fuel lines and how to route them. The GM throttle body(TB) feed and return enters and exits from the rear of the TB, so the factory fuel feed line was abandoned. I ran new 3/8 feed and 5/16 return along the inside of the inner frame rail to the bellhousing cross-member, then efi rated fuel hose to the hard lines coming off of the TB. Need to find a dual line clamp to secure the two lines coming off the TB. Any ideas?
At the fuel tank end I bent the lines to go up and over the top of the frame to meet up with the lines coming through the cab floor. A few inches of rubber fuel will join them. I haven't finished this part yet as I'm waiting for my engine harness and fuel pump to arrive. These should be coming this week. This was my first time making my own lines. Quite a learning experience.



I also refurbished the TB with a kit from Summit. These TB's are super simple to do. Two hours to disassemble, clean and re-assemble with new gaskets, O-rings and filters for the injectors. Here is a pic of it back on the engine after going through it. For a "before" image, just imagine it black.


So next weekend the task will be to install the fuel pump and filter, finish the last bit of plumbing and install the new engine harness. And shortly after I'll take the truck down to the muffler shop and have a new exhaust system installed. Some may gasp in horror, but I'm going use a two into one single 3 inch or 3.5 inch pipe exiting behind the left rear tire with a free flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler. So give or take, I'm probably three weeks away from hittin the key.

[72cs20]

Along with the new fuel tank was new filler hose, filler neck grommet and shiny new gas cap.


Also put in new front cab mount bushings. I believe these bushing are labeled for the 63 -66 trucks but can be used on the 60-62's too. They seem to be correct. Before I put them in I took a measurement from the back of the cab to the front of the bed, at the top and bottom. The gap was wider at the top than at the bottom. With the new mounts in the gap was even top and bottom. The rear cab mount bushings are in good shape, so they were left in.


Here is a pic of the old mount and the new one for comparison -


And finally I was able to get the power steering pressure line installed. The big problem here is that this steering pump uses the later style o-ring fitting and the steering box is inverted flare. My local shop couldn't make a hose with an o-ring style end on it. After some digging I learned that CPP sells an adapter fitting to mate o-ring to inverted flare. Problem solved I hope.

[Joe Pass]

Nice work

[62stepside longbox]

Nice progress

[72cs20]

Thanks gents and thanks Nail Pounder for your input.

[rusty76]

I am in on this one. Cool truck.

[Tgubser]

Looking good, I like the patina. The cab & gauges look great too. I'm in.

[nail pounder]

Looking good 72cs20! Keep em coming.

[RKS0069]

So nice!! I can't wait to see this truck in person!

[rpone605]

Good job on the build. It's coming along.

Question. On your front cab mounts. Did you remove the ones from the 70 frame and put the 62 ones on. Or did you redrill the cab?

[72cs20]

Thanks for the positive comments everyone.

rpone605, The only parts replaced were the black bushings (aka - pucks, donuts...) and the washers and bolts. The frame and cab are original. No drilling or any other modification needed. With air tools, replacing the front bushings took all of about 20 minutes.

I bought this cab mount kit from LMC and they listed it as 60-66 1/2 ton. It comes with all of the nuts, bolts, washers and bushings. The bolts in the kit for the front bushings are too short for the 3/4 tons so LMC offers a different part number for bolts for the 3/4 tons. I ended up getting the correct bolts locally. I'm still not sure why or what the differences are between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks, or between model years, when it comes to cab mount bushings but these seem to work.

[Katrina/10]

Nice work on the TBI installation, you should be happy with it when you get it running.