need some help with disk brake conversion

[64shortbox]

MASTERBrian,
Yes, I'm more than happy to tell you why I moved the proportioning valve so far forward. I'm Cheap & Lazy! I used ALL of the brake lines and proportioning valve from the donor 73 truck. I didn't have to make my own lines or even cut & reflare them to make everything work out. I did have to slightly tweak the lines to get everything to work. The proportioning valve is in the Factory location for a 73 C-10. I did have to make a mounting bracket for the proportioning valve but I made at work with some left over scrap stainless from my work.

My reasoning for all this is because if I ever needed a proportioning valve, brake line, master cylinder etc., I could go to any parts house or wrecking yard and get one and not have to wait for one to arrive from say a mail order house such as Speedway, RockAuto, Jegs, Summit etc. Again I'm also lazy and didn't have to make my own brake lines even though I have a couple of good tubing benders & a double flaring tool kit. Laziness is the mother of invention.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

MASTERBrian,
Yes, I'm more than happy to tell you why I moved the proportioning valve so far forward. I'm Cheap & Lazy! I used ALL of the brake lines and proportioning valve from the donor 73 truck. I didn't have to make my own lines or even cut & reflare them to make everything work out. I did have to slightly tweak the lines to get everything to work. The proportioning valve is in the Factory location for a 73 C-10. I did have to make a mounting bracket for the proportioning valve but I made at work with some left over scrap stainless from my work.

My reasoning for all this is because if I ever needed a proportioning valve, brake line, master cylinder etc., I could go to any parts house or wrecking yard and get one and not have to wait for one to arrive from say a mail order house such as Speedway, RockAuto, Jegs, Summit etc. Again I'm also lazy and didn't have to make my own brake lines even though I have a couple of good tubing benders & a double flaring tool kit. Laziness is the mother of invention.

Well, that helps and I get your point. I'm trying to decide if I make New lines for my 60, which sat for 15yrs in a field. I'm also wanting to buy stuff easy to replace. I'll have to study yours on my pc and think about this.

Definitely something to think about....

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

sixty4bigwindow,
I actually found that a vacuum booster from an early Chevy Astro Van would be a better fit. It's a dual diaphragm and only about 9" OD if I remember correctly.

Can I ask why you say it would be a better fit? I realize smaller diameter, but is there a clearance issue with the '73(ish) C10 Booster?

I ask partly because the 1985 Astro Booster setup is about $60 more. Maybe that $60 is worth it....I just wonder if it's also somewhat easier to keep everything from about the same year/vehicle so not as much to remember.

**Of course I have a growing spreadsheet to help keep track of what came from what!!

[Chevy Fleetside]

This is a 75 dual diaphragm booster with master. I made a whole thread on this just recently. I finished this job about 2 weeks ago. I used my stock suspension but upgraded the ball joints and tie rod ends for a 75 since I had some 75 year spindles laying around. The truck stops real good now. I love stepping on the brakes and not being thrown into parked cars on the right. Here is a link.. Sometimes I feel like I am wasting my time with stuff like this. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=727826

[64shortbox]

MASTERBrian,
A full size vacuum booster will work fine. I can still get my valve cover off if I need to. It's just that I bought my power brake booster on 1/2 off day sale at the local Pick N Pull and with them it doesn't matter what size the vacuum booster is or what it came off of. Also, remember when I said I was LAZY - well the truck I pulled the power brake booster off of already had the steering column out of it making it much easier to get to the nuts for the power brake booster.
Here's a pic if it helps any. The valve cover is chrome so it's a little hard to tell how much room there is between the vacuum booster and the low profile valve cover but I did measure and it's exactly 4" from the top of the valve cover to the closest point of the vacuum booster.

[MASTERBrian]

I called the local salvage and they want$50 for a booster/master and $35 for the valve. He said let him know size of brakes and he'd try to find something that closely matched.

I have the bracket From captainfab on order.

[Chevy Fleetside]

I bought a salvage yard booster.. Ended up ordering a new one because it was bad. Check out Rockauto.com and see how much they want. Some things you just don't want used and a master cylinder is one of them. Actually I got my master from Summit racing, $25 for a new one, not rebuilt.

[MASTERBrian]

I agree and still undecided on what I'll do there. I really like the look of the cpp master booster combo, but I just ordered the captain fab bracket so feel I've wasted money if I buy I kit now.

The parts store wants $160+25(core) for reman combo off astro, which is smaller dia booster and I'd still have to get valve, so at that point might as well buy the kit.

The only real reason I'm considering the salvage yard combo is so I can mock it up, get her on the road without spending a ton extra, then in few months replace it if I like the setup, but alas I hate having to bleed and mess with brakes.....

[MASTERBrian]

I will say from reading captain fabs threads it seems others have said they've bought kits and still used his bracket so, probably not a waste no matter what....

[MASTERBrian]

Thanks for all the help. Ordered CPP front discs, stainless lines, 2-1/2"drop spindles and 4"HD coils for the back. I'll likely order their booster/master, but thinking about that while I wait on the test and the captain fab bracket.

Not sure I should put the booster on before I drop the motor in anyway.

[Captainfab]

When you buy a booster and master combo from any of the big name parts suppliers, what you are getting is an aftermarket universal booster with a universal mounting bracket. To mount it to your firewall, you will have to drill some holes. With my booster bracket, no hole drilling is necessary. My bracket uses all factory mounting holes and directly attaches to the pedal bracket on the other side of the firewall. This ensures a good solid connection between the booster/master and the brake pedal and the bracket it pivots from, just as the GM engineers designed it to be.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

When you buy a booster and master combo from any of the big name parts suppliers, what you are getting is an aftermarket universal booster with a universal mounting bracket. To mount it to your firewall, you will have to drill some holes. With my booster bracket, no hole drilling is necessary. My bracket uses all factory mounting holes and directly attaches to the pedal bracket on the other side of the firewall. This ensures a good solid connection between the booster/master and the brake pedal and the bracket it pivots from, just as the GM engineers designed it to be.

From replies, I fully trust your bracket which is why i ordered. Just trying to decide from there. Once again I'm anxiously awaiting it's arrival!

[64shortbox]

MASTERBrian,
ALL of Captainfab's products are EXCELLENT! I have purchased both his Power Brake Booster Bracket and his Power Steering Box Bracket. Both are direct bolt up and even are supplied with Grade 8 mounting bolts. Here's a pic of his Brake Booster Bracket mounted to my firewall and as stated it uses the factory holes & mounting points. I did use Stainless Steel bolts to mount mine though just because I had them.