Bent hood

[87 STEPPER]

Originally Posted by WAM Rods

We make a hood strut kit for the 81 & up style trucks although the OP was asking about the 73-80 style which is completely different.

Ok good to know are they for glass or steel hood's?

[87 STEPPER]

Originally Posted by Front Range

On the Harwood Site they recommend a #210 spring for the Harwood brand hood. Summit sells the 210 spring for 40-ish bucks.

I read a thread somewhere else were a member recommended a prop rod with low tension springs. Apparently with any kind of breeze the hood would come down and swat you if the spring would hold it up at all. Never done it so I can't confirm the validity of that statement. I'm guessing somebody will have to be a 40 dollar guinea pig for an accurate answer.

DUDE!! Those are the one's i'm talkin' about. Those are the older style spring. I don't know if they would be strong enough to keep a steel hood up but it's worth a try.

Here's the style spring used in the newer gen hinges from '81-87. There is also a weaker tension style available in the type as well for glass hood's. But they didn't make them when I bought my Harwood.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by WAM Rods

We make a hood strut kit for the 81 & up style trucks although the OP was asking about the 73-80 style which is completely different.

Well I guess it is time for a 73-80 Wam Rods!?! I will buy it if you make it.

[UKNOWME]

I think most everyone would buy it! The 81-87 trucks didn't have hood issues.

[Willowrun]

You can fix your hood without screwing up paint. I've done a few by myself but an extra set of hands helps.
- take off hood
- take of hinges and lube and work free so they don't give resistance. Reinstall.
- get two pieces of 1" x 1/8" x 6" steel flat stock
- you want to bridge the gap on the under side of the hood on each side in the crush zone where the bend happens.
- weld both pieces in place on one end of the gap only with the other end going across crush zone and not welded.
- place hood on stable saw horses right side up with one saw horse under front edge and one under back edge.
- using a straight edge on top of hood (outside upper edges of hood...be careful of paint) have helper bend hood back to flat, almost past flat, and then you tack free ends of your flat stock to hold it in place.
- reinstall hook and check fit. It good, weld as much as you feel it should be welded to stay put.
- the area you are welding has an air gap between it and top of hood (fresh paint). Work around areas to be welded to avoid too much heat.
- drive carefully so you don't get decapitated.

The hood on this Jimmy had a bow worse than yours and I did the above to it.

[WAM Rods]

Originally Posted by 87 STEPPER

Ok good to know are they for glass or steel hood's?

Steel hoods

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

Well I guess it is time for a 73-80 Wam Rods!?! I will buy it if you make it.

We would like to offer these kits in the future.
I do believe we have secured a R&D vehicle to design a 73-80 kit in the future.

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

I think most everyone would buy it! The 81-87 trucks didn't have hood issues.

Our kits were originally designed for a clean good look and to work for slammed trucks that had to eliminate or fabricate front inner fenders or run sloshtubz.

We have had some interest expressed in the 73-80 style for the reasons above as well as the hood bending issue.

When we do release a 73-80 kit we will let you guys know.

[Firebirdjones]

What about the paint on the bottom of the hood.....and the unsightly piece of steel welded there??
I guess if it's a clapped out beater truck then fine, in which case I wouldn't worry about the bowed hood anyway.
After they bow like that, they make a nice awning over your garage door entrance

[wilkin250r]

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

What about the paint on the bottom of the hood.....and the unsightly piece of steel welded there??
I guess if it's a clapped out beater truck then fine, in which case I wouldn't worry about the bowed hood anyway.
After they bow like that, they make a nice awning over your garage door entrance

I would venture a guess that there are a LOT of trucks out there that aren't rusted, clapped out pieces of junk, but also aren't show trucks. Somewhere in between, where you would want the outward appearance to look nice, but aren't too concerned about the appearance of areas that are normally hidden from view, like the frame, axles, and underside of the hood.

[Firebirdjones]

While I see that as possible, it would depend on the person. Being in the restoration business I still don't condone those type of repairs. After a very spendy paint job blowing these things all apart, at that point I don't think any customer I've had would go along with a repair like that.

It could work in a pinch, but from my experience, you never really get all the bow out of one, You'll see it regardless, especially after a razor straight paint job, and since Chris has just painted this truck, I can't imagine why he would want to cut corners like that considering these hoods are dirt cheap to buy anyway.

Shucks my 79 is unrestored, a nice example and well kept with original paint, but not a show truck by any means, it's used and has chips and scratches after 37 years. Never a hood problem with this one but if it ever did I still wouldn't repair it with welded metal underneath, show truck or not. But that's just me.

[Firebirdjones]

Chris,
Unfortunately your hood is already painted. While you may try to straighten it back out, it will likely never be perfectly straight again without body work repairs involved. That is what I was eluding to in my first post. They never really go back exactly where they were.

As that hood bent, generally the metal slightly stretched in that area. When you straighten it out the metal won't magically shrink and a wrinkle or wave may result. While possibly not that noticeable on a faded worn out hood, you'll see it on that fresh shiny paint job, and you'll definitely find it as soon as you start blocking the hood. It's going to require filler and more block sanding and a reshoot to make it right. This is why I don't recommend trying to straighten it unless you know going in that more extensive repairs with a reshoot may be involved. After all that work painting the truck I wouldn't think you'd want to live with a wrinkled hood. It'll drive you nuts staring at it every time you get in the driver seat

[Tom]

It takes ALOT of force to put a hood threw the cab in a crash. I don't worry about it and welded steel plates where the bend zone is.

[chrismoore701]

Well I think the plan is to wait until winter. Try to straighten it. The back up plan is that I have another hood behind the garage that is fracked at the crumple zone. as you can see from this truck I have learned how to do body work. I will clean that crack and weld it back. And make it look razor straight. The. What I don't want to do is spend all that money on more paint. I have two little boys and I want to watch them grow up. So not taking any chances on the brace method. Thanks for all the advice. Wish me luck.

[cadillac_al]

It sounds like used hoods are gaining in value. I'll have to start stockpiling them. A lot of them went to the crushers in the last 10 years.

[Willowrun]

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

What about the paint on the bottom of the hood.....and the unsightly piece of steel welded there??
I guess if it's a clapped out beater truck then fine, in which case I wouldn't worry about the bowed hood anyway.
After they bow like that, they make a nice awning over your garage door entrance

The paint on the bottom of his hood is black. The repair can be made where only someone looking for it would notice. If the material isn't bent past it's yield it will straighten and be unnoticeable. For me if it's going to be a show truck they I'd go spend the high dollar on an NOS hood. If not, I gave an alternative to aftermarket metal that's worked for me.

[S10Fan]

I bought an aftermarket hood a few years ago and nearly bent it with the first closing. Flat supports from I think LMC were screwed to the area in question, problem solved temporarily. I later found a pair of NOS hinges new in the package, problem solved for my lifetime. I have an NOS hood in the box in my garage that no one seemed interested in for 300 bucks so I'm keeping it for use at another time. I wasn't willing to ship the hood so I'm sure that's part of the reason I still have it.


As far as using the braces and risking life........I could also get T-Boned and end up with a hood in the cab.

[LBJ]

Just remove the hinge springs and use a broom stick to hold the hood up. Works well. Let's face it, how much of the time is your hood up, anyway? Keep the stick behind the seat or in the bed. I am on my 3rd and last hood now. Those springs ruined the first two. Simple fix and costs nothing. My 2 cents.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by LBJ

Just remove the hinge springs and use a broom stick to hold the hood up. Works well. Let's face it, how much of the time is your hood up, anyway? Keep the stick behind the seat or in the bed. I am on my 3rd and last hood now. Those springs ruined the first two. Simple fix and costs nothing. My 2 cents.

Or keep em lubed and don't look ghetto. Less time lubing them then pulling the old springs off. And my hoods up alot. 38yr old truck and all.

[Justins76]

Someone posted this awhile back. 4:10 shows slow mo of the hood buckle during a front end crash
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpvCDDtHnKc

[cadillac_al]

Originally Posted by Tom

Or keep em lubed and don't look ghetto. Less time lubing them then pulling the old springs off. And my hoods up alot. 38yr old truck and all.

Just about every 80's Camaro I see has a stick in the back seat. I can see it with those cheesy hood and hatch struts but Chevy trucks have real hinges with real springs so no need to go ghetto. I still have a hard time believing this is a common problem since I have been driving these things for 40 years without a hood problem. Apparently those hinges can get pretty stiff if they are never ever lubed. If it won't close with one hand then the hinges need some oil. Just say NO to bent hoods.

[Front Range]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Well I think the plan is to wait until winter. Try to straighten it. The back up plan is that I have another hood behind the garage that is fracked at the crumple zone.

Chris I've heard of guys using either 2x4 wood or 1/4" steel sections, sandwiching each edge of the hood between the 2 pieces and using 3 big C-clamps per side (2 on each end and 1 in the middle). Tighten the end clamps first and then slowly tighten the middle clamp at the bend - squeezing the bow out.

You might try that method on the spare hood behind your garage and see if you can get some decent results. If it works then try it on the painted hood with a protective layer between the paint and material.

[chrismoore701]

I will try that soon. But I heard you really need to bend it past straight and it will straighten out tha way. Will see what happens. As mentioned key thing is to keep the hinges oiled. Problem is. It is too late for that. For now I can close the hood with one finger

[Front Range]

Cool. I'd be interested in hearing how it turns out for you.

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

I will try that soon. But I heard you really need to bend it past straight and it will straighten out tha way. Will see what happens. As mentioned key thing is to keep the hinges oiled. Problem is. It is too late for that. For now I can close the hood with one finger

So whatever happened?

[chrismoore701]

Been a long time. Sorry missed the post. It worked pretty good. Not perfect. But considering i just finished painting the truck i did not like any other choices. Pretty happy with it

[chrismoore701]

I will see if i can find some before and after pics