Help reading SPID

[SS Tim]

This is as far as I can go at this point. Totally killed my morning too. As you can see there were a few changes but for the most part everything is supported and documentable (to a point).

The body side molding listed must the upper since a CST included lower body side molding.

Your pictures of the truck helped confirm the blanks I was having trouble sorting out. Like a puzzle, one little bit can make a big difference.

The 951xxx fleet option had me wondering, but I feel that D60 rear axle was ordered in that truck under the fleet number shown.
It was standard with a 396/manual trans. but not a public RPO on automatic trucks. Sorry but I can't supply the missing letter with any certainity. Jeff might be able to when he makes you SPID but its still a longshot.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

what do west coast jr mirrors look like??? it has sport mirrors currently.

The truck had the optional below eyeline mirrors like the red CST below. In fact your truck looked pretty much like it when you ignore those rally wheels (pet peeve), roof lamps, spare, bed rails ect.

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

Where would I find a correct rear step bumper??? Dunno if I've seen those avail anywhere

A WTB classified is probably the best place to start. Be warned it over 100lbs so it needs to be local if possible.

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

Where would I look for it

The ratio is not really important but the easiest would be to do a spin the tire check. Be sure to count the teeth for future reference when you service the diff. though.

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Remote fill power steering pump. That's pretty cool. Would be even cooler if it was a factory or dealer option. Gary

Gary, You kow this, big blocks came stock with the remote reservoir. It helps things fit and is a cheap fluid cooler too.

[jr1000yarder]

Thanks SS Tim. I'll be on the hunt for some of those mirrors for sure.

Who is Jeff and how do I reach him? I'll just send him my glove box for better deciphering....

This place is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Gary, You kow this, big blocks came stock with the remote reservoir. It helps things fit and is a cheap fluid cooler too.

Tim, after I posted I went back and looked and noticed the BBC. LOL... I think that would be a cool thing even for a SBC truck to have.

Gary

[bruceman1968]

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

I'll just send him my glove box for better deciphering....

Better deciphering? I really don't think your going to get better deciphering than SS Tim did for you. He got every single option including the fleet code. There's a couple of suffix codes missing but so what. Suffix codes aren't even used after production and very few people know what they are. You can just make up any letter you want. No one will ever know.

That's a VERY nice truck you have there. Good straight panels and very little rust. Your going to be able to make that truck a real head turner in no time. It's very well optioned and it's the upper trim level. The big block and tachometer are a huge bonus. I hope you keep that truck forever and drive the wheels off it everyday!

I reprinted what Tim had to show how little is missing. You can add the wheelbase at 127, get the unique serial number from your vin plate and make up 3 letters for the suffix codes and you have a complete SPID that no one will be able to question.

[Custom/20]

This may help a little. http://outintheshop.com/options.html

[jr1000yarder]

Originally Posted by bruceman1968

Better deciphering? I really don't think your going to get better deciphering than SS Tim did for you. He got every single option including the fleet code. There's a couple of suffix codes missing but so what. Suffix codes aren't even used after production and very few people know what they are. You can just make up any letter you want. No one will ever know.

That's a VERY nice truck you have there. Good straight panels and very little rust. Your going to be able to make that truck a real head turner in no time. It's very well optioned and it's the upper trim level. The big block and tachometer are a huge bonus. I hope you keep that truck forever and drive the wheels off it everyday!

I reprinted what Tim had to show how little is missing. You can add the wheelbase at 127, get the unique serial number from your vin plate and make up 3 letters for the suffix codes and you have a complete SPID that no one will be able to question.
Attachment 1536504

Thank you very much. If my boy doesn't take care of it I'm gonna take it off him

I will need everyone's help to bring it back to life. It seems like a good truck and worth putting the money into. . I'm currently working on getting parts together ....

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

Thanks SS Tim. I'll be on the hunt for some of those mirrors for sure.

Who is Jeff and how do I reach him? I'll just send him my glove box for better deciphering....

This place is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jeff is forum member "chipflyer"

http://outintheshop.com/index.html

[jr1000yarder]

Originally Posted by keith seymore

jeff is forum member "chipflyer"

http://outintheshop.com/index.html

thanks!

[chipflyer]

I have a label from 68 that has 9516QA listed and a 69 label with the tach code as 4U16FM. No need to mail anything, I would roll with those. That's a tough one to decipher for sure, Good work Tim and everybody else that helped!

Jeff

[jr1000yarder]

Originally Posted by chipflyer

I have a label from 68 that has 9516QA listed and a 69 label with the tach code as 4U16FM. No need to mail anything, I would roll with those. That's a tough one to decipher for sure, Good work Tim and everybody else that helped!

Jeff

PM Sent

[jr1000yarder]

the lower side moldings on my truck. Should they be black or wood grain???? Would I also have the upper moldings???

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by bruceman1968

Better deciphering? I really don't think your going to get better deciphering than SS Tim did for you. He got every single option including the fleet code...

Bruce, Thanks for the support, we both know how much effort goes into tracking down the correct option RPOs, codes and plant variations in descriptions. Fortunately this was pretty intact with a number of place holder digits to work from.

Originally Posted by chipflyer

I have a label from 68 that has 9516QA listed and a 69 label with the tach code as 4U16FM. No need to mail anything, I would roll with those. That's a tough one to decipher for sure, Good work Tim and everybody else that helped!
Jeff

Jeff, Thanks for the shout out. You know I like working these down to the last detail. On the tach code I still think 4U16BW is going to be the most correct for that line. But it did come from a 70 C10 CST with 396/TH400 so I will let you and the owner decide. On the fleet line I'd also like to offer up the actual description may not have been printed just the code, food for thought as well.

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

I can read the vin, it matches the title

Unfortunately I must also address the elephant in the room.
The rear axle and the SPID descriptions lead me to believe they are from the same truck.
However the fact the SPID has been scratched away rendering the serial portion of the VIN unreadable in the pictures has me wondering.
Is the VIN you are reading from the SPID/glovebox door or the door post VIN plate?
If it is from the door plate (with correct rivets) then I suggest you also check the frame's partial VIN. It is located (on most trucks) in the top flange of the left frame rail near the steering box. Stamped as an eight digit partial starting with the year code, then plant code, followed by the six serial digits. So it should look like 9B _ _ _ _ _ _.

The reason I am seeming to torture you is the SPID clearly lists factory Air Conditioning yet just as clearly the cab is not.
This suggests a not uncommon cab swap and possible VIN swap.

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

the lower side moldings on my truck. Should they be black or wood grain???? Would I also have the upper moldings???

Sorry I wasn't clearer earlier on the moldings. As a CST it included the woodgrained lower body side and tailgate molding/applique. The SPID also lists the truck as being optioned with the upper belt molding as well so your truck had the full treatment.

[midniteblues]

[QUOTE=bruceman1968;7604832]Better deciphering? I really don't think your going to get better deciphering than SS Tim did for you.

Amen to that. SsTim is like the truck wisperer.
Countless times I've seen him do the same thing for many on here including myself....Bruceman you are up there too I've learned alot from your posts.

I noticed the ac was gone back when I posted but forgot to say it.

This can be one sweet truck

[chipflyer]

Jeff, Thanks for the shout out. You know I like working these down to the last detail. On the tach code I still think 4U16BW is going to be the most correct for that line. But it did come from a 70 C10 CST with 396/TH400 so I will let you and the owner decide. On the fleet line I'd also like to offer up the actual description may not have been printed just the code, food for thought as well.

Yes, I agree BW would probably be better for the tach, I missed that before.
Here is the label from 68 with that diff option, I knew I had one of those just had to track it down.

Jeff

[jr1000yarder]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Bruce, Thanks for the support, we both know how much effort goes into tracking down the correct option RPOs, codes and plant variations in descriptions. Fortunately this was pretty intact with a number of place holder digits to work from.



Jeff, Thanks for the shout out. You know I like working these down to the last detail. On the tach code I still think 4U16BW is going to be the most correct for that line. But it did come from a 70 C10 CST with 396/TH400 so I will let you and the owner decide. On the fleet line I'd also like to offer up the actual description may not have been printed just the code, food for thought as well.



Unfortunately I must also address the elephant in the room.
The rear axle and the SPID descriptions lead me to believe they are from the same truck.
However the fact the SPID has been scratched away rendering the serial portion of the VIN unreadable in the pictures has me wondering.
Is the VIN you are reading from the SPID/glovebox door or the door post VIN plate?
If it is from the door plate (with correct rivets) then I suggest you also check the frame's partial VIN. It is located (on most trucks) in the top flange of the left frame rail near the steering box. Stamped as an eight digit partial starting with the year code, then plant code, followed by the six serial digits. So it should look like 9B _ _ _ _ _ _.

The reason I am seeming to torture you is the SPID clearly lists factory Air Conditioning yet just as clearly the cab is not.
This suggests a not uncommon cab swap and possible VIN swap.



Sorry I wasn't clearer earlier on the moldings. As a CST it included the woodgrained lower body side and tailgate molding/applique. The SPID also lists the truck as being optioned with the upper belt molding as well so your truck had the full treatment.

the cab was swapped out 12 years ago according to the owner, which is y the floors and rockers are really good. I have all the original a/c interior parts that were removed albeit they are not mint but savable. I can read the whole vin and it does match the vin tag. It appears to me that when it was repainted the tape pulled the SPID away and didn't look, scratched. It has been in the family since new I'm told and has been sitting since 2006 when his brother died of cancer. That's the story I got, sounded right and the old man seemed like he was honest. Was it worth the 4k I paid?

[jr1000yarder]

I will grab the vin off the frame Sunday now that I know where to look.

Anything else I need to do to confirm????

[jr1000yarder]

All I have in my phone, I'll take a better one Sunday. I can read all but one #

I think maybe painted over?? I'm afraid to touch it and make it worse. I want to just remove the glovebox for safe keeping and preserve it somehow so it doesn't get worse and buy another box and install a new label. I also have the compressor mounts. Missing evaporator and compressor. SSTim I'm very grateful for your help.

[bruceman1968]

Originally Posted by jr1000yarder

Was it worth the 4k I paid?

Yes! It most certainly was. Please keep us updated with progress pics as you and your son work on it. It really is a nice truck.

[jr1000yarder]

Originally Posted by bruceman1968

Yes! It most certainly was. Please keep us updated with progress pics as you and your son work on it. It really is a nice truck.

OK, Thank God!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, were gonna tear the interior down Sunday and really look it over good. I guess we will start a build thread. My son is beside himself with excitement. He's a good kid and not the typical 17yr old.(Thank Momma for that one). Were going to see if the build sheet is in the seat somewhere. Dash is going off to TBONE64 on Monday for the proper restoration work.....lots to do!!!!!

Going to get a tilt column in the works too.....

[SS Tim]

Sounds like everything was up front on the cab swap. Knowing about these things going in makes it easier. All too often dream buys end up being frankentrucks glued together with fresh paint and BS.

There is a lot more to the VIN in the last picture than the others so I'm sure you are seeing even more than I am.

Keeping the door and installing a new SPID on a replacement is a practice I stand firmly behind, especially on "upgraded" trucks.

To that end here is probably my final draft on it. You and Jeff can work out the details from there on how you want it printed.

Numbers can go as far as you want. Be sure to confirm the ratio is actually 3.54 if you decide to print that as Jeff is showing.
The axle has a date and BOM (bill of materials) code applied by Dana/Spicer that describes the axle as built if you want to hunt for that. Download a pdf copy of "X510-8DSD" to add to your collection http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-8DSD.pdf ‎ as well as the serice and overhaul manuals linked in my signature (at least until you get paper copies!).

Engine numbers will help and can confirm it is the correct block for a 69 C10. These include the engine assembly number, specifically the suffix codes in conjunction with the block casting number and date. We can even verify the trans code and date from the tag as being correct.

Please be sure to put a link to the build thread here so I see it!

[jr1000yarder]

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Were is a good place to buy the manuals???

[jr1000yarder]

Finally a build thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...69#post7678069

[SS Tim]

Its great seeing this going forward.

[70STOVEBOLT]

One other thing I noticed. The truck has a "70" inner grille, or at least it's painted like a 70.