Some Learning For all About Actually Removing T-Stat

[Jrainman]

Lot of good Information from all, but I think you first have to understand the effects of pressure on boiling point temperatures .

A system under pressure can handle higher temperatures , and offers a higher Boiling Point ,Most liquids have a specific Boing Point ,witch is the temperature at witch the liquid begins to change to a gas

If pressure is applied to the liquid, it must become hotter before it can boil ,Pure water in a cooling system will boil at sea level at 212 f at higher altitudes, atmospheric pressure is less then at sea level (water at 5280 ft will boil at a mere 203 f

A cooling system that is under a true 15 lbs of pressure however , will now allow the water to reach nearly 250 f before it will boil ,even at this temperature the water is able to circulate through the engine cooling parts that are much higher in temperature with out the water boiling.

As long as the coolant remains in liquid form it can do its job and transfer heat to the radiator or heat exchanger so it can be dissipated .

Coolant that is boiling cannot transfer as much heat and overheating is likely to occur if the coolant turns to a gaseous state . Steam adjacent to a hot surface, such as combustion wall ,can act like a insulator ,thus preventing any heat transfer to the coolant.

50/50 antifreeze at 15 psi will boil at 227 f
So I would make sure my cooling system is under the proper pressure and have good coolant in the system ,

[jjzepplin]

I also like to get it idling good and get a sheet of paper and place it in front of the radiator to check the pull of air. At idle it should pull pretty good on the paper. And yes a good radiator cap is necessary as well.
I used to use a timing light for timing but now it is a tool for checking spark.
Get an advance curve kit and read the instructions carefully and you will have your timing perfect and likely wake up your sleeping engine a bit too.

[Redline novdog]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

I know this is a hot topic and that there are two camps, I am not trying to start a war. Instead I am going convey what actually happened when I removed mine.

I am currently battling over-heating, one thing I tried was removing the T-stat which worked on 6 other vehicles in my life. When I removed it on this crate engine it stays cool and eventually hits equilibrium at 150 degrees. However, if it is really hot out (over 90 degrees out) the heat of all the coolant slowly rises until out of control. The following statements are true:

1. With T-Stat in I would average 180 degrees and only creep up at intersections then it would return to 180 fast once RPM's were increased. I.E. A restriction in the coolant flow does indeed allow for the coolant to remain in the radiator and be cooled more. Still I would start rising at intersection but at a slower rate.

2. The temp does not drop fast with an increase in RPM's when engine is hot and the T-Stat is out.

Turns out both sides are right. Removing it does cool the engine but reduces engine efficiency and increases wear and only worked for me when it was under 90 degrees out. Removing it also does not allow for control when it is really hot out.

I was surprised to see that it could over heat with the T-Stat out and a new radiator and water pump.

On all other non-v8's, removing the stat meant never over-heating.

This is just info for others to use.

I am still hunting for my equilibrium and am close. I DO NOT want to be watching my temp gauge all the time, new cars never seem to have the needle move much. I am going to use an electric fan to hit my equilibrium.

I've heard of people bringing their own wine/beer, but 1 t-stat in 6 different vehicles!!! Thats a new one for me. LOL!

[ubtripn]

I removed the t-stat in 6 or more cars as a kid. "Used to buy a different one instead of changing the oil like my son does now" Anyway, thank you everybody, I am rechecking everything today. Thanks for all the good info.