Stalls once it warmed up - 305

[geezer#99]

Put more timing in it.
8-9 degrees is not enough.
Bump it to 14 initial.
Study this.
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=76/prd76.htm

[Shugalou]

Thanks for the link Geezer. I read the aticle and it seemed to stress setting overall timing to 34 vs the 14 initial. Is 14 initial close to 34 overall?

I have a crappy timing light that doesn't have any sort of dial on it so I just set the initial...but after reading this it does make me want to set overall timing with a correct timing gun and pull from manifold vacuum so I can lower the rpms and throttle plate position at the same time.

[geezer#99]

34 overall with 14 initial assumes you have 20 degrees in the mechanical timing. Most distributors are usually close to 24 mechanical which will still work with 14 initial giving you 38 total. Still doable that way. Stockish motors will run nicely like that. The critical factor is getting your timing all in by 3000 rpm. Easy to do by changing the weight springs.
In order to get your throttle closed and the transfer slot covered correctly, more initial is sometimes needed. Manifold vac to the vac pot helps but sometimes you need a little more from the initial setting.
Every motor is different. You just need to experiment.

Go Bluejays!!!

[Shugalou]

Geezer thanks for the explanation, I'll try 14 and see how it responds...I'm looking forward to testing this tomorrow morning.

Yes Go Jays Go! This weekend is against the Red Sox might as well be playoffs!

[Shugalou]

OK so I had a chance to take it out after I adjusted the idle and it felt smoother at idle but when I got on the throttle I would get a bad bog down...it never did that before when it was running with the choke plates closed.

I haven't advanced the timing yet - it would be nice if this was the cause but I'm thinking it might be ready for a rebuild.

Time for more research...

[geezer#99]

Choke plate closed locks out the secondaries. No bog that way.
Choke fully open allows secondary to work. Could be the secondary air valve is set up too light. Tap the air valve door with your finger. It should be a bit stiff and snap back closed and not loose feeling.
Check that and do your timing.

BTW the Jay's play the Yankees, not the Sox!

[Shugalou]

Oh damn your right about the Jays...I was too excited for the sox - still should be a good one.

You are right with the secondarys not opening. I just checked by opening the flaps which spring back nicely and the secondarys barely open when pushed.

I looked and that tab with the wire isn't dropping off the wire...I'll post a pick in a second to show...I'm trying to figure out how to get it drop. I loosened the choke idle screw all the way out and it didn't drop. I watched a youtube vid where the guy says he always eliminates this piece when rebuilding but I figure it's there for a reason.

[Shugalou]

[geezer#99]

Loosen the black cap and rotate it all the way to lean setting and it should drop down.

[Shugalou]

That sounds too easy...but I'm gonna try it right now...Thanks Geezer I'll report back shortly.

[Shugalou]

Question, If I set it all the way to lean wont the choke blades be open and make it difficult to start when cold?

[Shugalou]

So I set the choke to lean just enough to drop the lockout and the secondarys can now open...but the choke blades are open too much.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Shugalou

So I set the choke to lean just enough to drop the lockout and the secondarys can now open...but the choke blades are open too much.

Now you know your linkage works correctly.
Now you'll need to find the choke setting on the cap where it closes the butterfly when cold and opens the butterfly fully when warmed up.
Do you have a gasket between the black cap and the body of the choke? The electric choke is supposed to ground thru the carb body.

[Shugalou]

Hi Geezer thanks for the info.

No there is no gasket between the choke spring and body...I'm guessing there isn't supposed to be?

There is some play in the linkage with the choke blades...I'm wondering if this could be a problem...Do you have any tips on adjusting linkage? I'm gonna research this and see what I can find... So close...I'm positive now that this has never worked on all 4 barrels.

[geezer#99]

You just gotta find the sweet spot.
When you start it cold the choke pull off pulls the choke butterfly open. THe amount of opening is adjustable with that screw on the arm just above the cap. You need to adjust the butterfly about 1/4 inch open.
Setting up an electric choke is all about compromise. You need to find that sweet spot.
I used to have two settings on my chokes. One for summer, one for winter.

Asked about the gasket because some people leave them in and the choke won't work fully open.

[Shugalou]

Hi Geeze yes I had it set to about 1/4 inch before and the blades opened up but it never dropped off that stopper...I'll fiddle some more with the adjustment screw and see if it drops the butterflys some more.

Thanks again for the help

[Shugalou]

I think I might try to create that sweet spot by tryng to tap that pin out just a touch.

I was thinking if the pin was pulled altogether wouldn't that benefit a flooded start since you can get more air in when pedal is fully depressed.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Shugalou

I think I might try to create that sweet spot by tryng to tap that pin out just a touch.

I was thinking if the pin was pulled altogether wouldn't that benefit a flooded start since you can get more air in when pedal is fully depressed.

It's your wallet!!
Think of it this way.
More air and fuel on a cold motor can make a big bang.

Are you sure you have 12v to the choke?

[Shugalou]

Yes for sure choke is working I have tested it and it opens as it should

When I try to find that sweet spot (with the motor off and cooled down) I cannot have the choke plates closed and have the lock out fall off when I open the chokes plates fully.

I have played with both the idle and vacuum pull off screws and it does not adjust anything to aid in getting the sweet spot...I'll try with the motor running over the weekend if I can to see if that changes things.

[geezer#99]

How are you opening the choke plate fully?

[Shugalou]

I am opening them up by hand (pushing the flap down open up) to simulate the coil heated up. Am I doing something wrong?

[geezer#99]

That won't do it!
You need to push down on the counterweighted lever that's between the carb body and the choke housing. When you push it done it trips the lockout arm so the secondaries are free to move.
If you page down in this link to the secondary air valve section you'll see the arm just above the black cap. THat arm pops up when the choke closes.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...4MV_carburetor

[Shugalou]

Geeze thank you for the clarification I will try to find some time over the weekend to take this wealth of information in.

Again thank you very much for the assistance I'll keep you posted!

[Shugalou]

Geeze your note about the linkage piece helped me...but I ran into another problem now.

I realized the choke was resetting because I guess I hooked it up before it reset so it wouldn't reset - I took the coil off and I was able to raise that arm. While I was trying to dial everything in when I noticed gas leaking out under the choke off of the fast idle screw. Glad I caught this...I'm guessing gaskets are worn out and it's time for a rebuild now.

[geezer#99]

It's flooding!
Float out of spec or trash in the needle/seat.
If you buy a carb rebuild kit, spend a liitle more and get one from here.
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/parts.html

Meanwhile you can try the blunt object tap method.
Use the handle on a big screwdriver and tap on the carb near the inlet on the front of the carb. THat might clean it out and fix the flooding.
Another way is to squeeze off the fuel line with some pliers, let it build pressure and let the flow go. THat'll flush out any trash in the needle/seat.